Advice on potential purchase (Nortrack 3500B)

[PNW1020D]

BOB you will close to me....kinda hahaha

Come look at this thing with me!!!!

 

[Bob Rooks]

Ok so I went and look at this machine. Saw the condition, watched the backhoe operate as well as the dozer. The undercarriage was in good condition. Overall the machine operated and looked the part.

Now my concerns.

It seemed the gentlemen had to "double clutch" a few times to get the machine into gear. From going from R to F. Should I be taking this seriously?
This is normal. The transmission has straight cut gears and no synchronizers. Sometimes it is necessary.

The steering clutches on the other hand performed as they should. I watched him go 360 both directions in semi wet dirt I had just watched him push.
That's not how you test them. Going in a straight line, depress one of the pedals about one-third to halfway and the machine should start to turn in that direction, meaning you have disengaged the steering clutch but have not applied the brake yet. The brake is applied and the steering clutch fully disengaged when the pedal is fully depressed.

Oil was a bit dirty but not low.
The oil being "dirty" is not an indication of the condition of the oil. The engine oil and filter on these cold running machines (140°F) should be changed every 200 hours. The only way to tell the condition of your oil is by analysis. That will tell you if you have wear metals in it, fuel or coolant cross contamination, etc.

Hydraulic fluid was clean (you want to check the pressure on the return filter) and the pistons showed no signs of leaks or pitting. :thumbsup:

The add says the machine has around 350 hours of use. Here is where I get worried. The hour meter doesn't work and is stuck at 180, hence the "around" term. So I am essentially taking his word for it.
These service indicators (hour meters) are of questionable quality. Mine failed around 690 hours, so rather than spend $200 for a new instrument I installed a new standard hour meter on the side of the instrument panel.

The trailer was in good shape. Clean title. Electronic brakes. :thumbsup:

Am I putting myself in a position to get ******?

Please advise.
If you have no experience on tracked machines, then expect a few disappointments.
Thanks everyone!!!!

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[Bob Rooks]

As an aside, I installed a 180° thermostat to increase thermal efficiency, and the engine not only runs better but it runs cleaner too. Much less soot contamination in the oil.

 

[Bob Rooks]

BOB you will close to me....kinda hahaha
Come look at this thing with me!!!!

You're down around Sumner. That's about 2-1/2 hours one way. I'm right in the middle of a garage expansion right now and can't get away like that for a few weeks yet.

 

[PNW1020D]

Nice little finish Dozer

Look at this machine. It seems the package deal I am on the fence about I should really just pull the trigger and buy.

Thank you bob for all the words of advice and knowledge.

Your responses are appreciated more than you know.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Nice little finish Dozer

Look at this machine. It seems the package deal I am on the fence about I should really just pull the trigger and buy.

Thank you bob for all the words of advice and knowledge.

Your responses are appreciated more than you know.

These are NOT finish dozers. The post is very ignorant. Trimming dozers have a special wishbone and blade (see pic).
Nortrac is a rebranded Yuchai. There are many other brand names for the same dozer. Unless that dozer is less than three years old and has less than 150 hours on it, that's too much money IMHO. I would be curious why it is for sale

 

[Bob Rooks]

I investigated that machine. It is a 2006 and has 130 hours on it. It would be an exceptional value IMHO.

 

[PNW1020D]

So the dozer that I originally posted about with the bradco hopefully will be in my hands tonight. I purchased the trailer as well.

Thank you for investigating that other posting for me Bob. Again your knowledge is greatly appreciated.

The dozer does come with "manuals" so says the owner. I don't know what that consists of...so I am going to ask questions preemptively.

What kind of engine oil?
Capacity?
What P# for the oil filter. Source?
What kind of hydraulic fluid to use?
What coolant to use?
Capacity?
Other ideal maintenance items to take care of when coming into possession of a new machine?
Best Source for parts?

I have read horror stories of rocks causing driveshafts to snap. Are there rock guards made for this machine?

How and why does this exactly happen? How do I not have this happen to me? lol

Thanks everyone.

FYI. Here is the thread for the JD 1020 I also have been "going through" ect. She is a real work horse.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/352299-new-young-uneducated-owner-1969-a.html

 

[PNW1020D]

So the units (Trailer and dozer) are now sitting at my house.

I got the use the unit last night. I checked all the fluids and put new fuel in it and went out to the pasture to move some of the surplus material I have been staring at for 2 weeks now.

First off. The machine (I know its a dozer, I know) is slow. Reverse is literally useless unless I am pulling a stump out?

Secondly the bad....well not ideal. The crawler does not like to turn left as much as it does right. There is no question. The undercarriage is in great shape but I fear the left steering clutch is ****. Then again I didnt go through the clutch adjustment segment in the owners manual he provided me with so maybe that is the problem?

Can you tell me what normal pedal operation should feel like?

Also mine seem pretty hard to move. Not insane but definitely stiff. Is this normal? Should I just lube up the hinge points? ect?

 

[Bob Rooks]

What kind of engine oil? 15w-40 such as Chevron Delo400 or Shell Rotella
Capacity? This is in the owner's manual, but if I remember correctly it's five quarts with filter change.
What P# Various. for the oil filter. Source? NAPA, Baldwin, WIX. There were two thread sizes, one is metric the other is SAE. You will have to determine which one you have.
What kind of hydraulic fluid to use? ISO AW32 or ISO AW46, any brand. I use a multi grade hydraulic oil in all of my machines (saves on inventory, and covers for all climates) ISO AW 32/46/68. O'Reilly's stocks it, but you can get it through other brands as well.
What coolant to use? 50/50 mix ethylene glycol or extended life coolant for diesel engines. Make sure the cooling system is clean. If in doubt do a good chemical flush and rinse first.
Capacity? About two gallons.
Other ideal maintenance items to take care of when coming into possession of a new machine?
Check ALL nuts and bolts. Sometimes the factory forgets. This includes engine mounts, transmission, etc.
Best Source for parts? Many sources, includes Circle G Tractor, Northern Tool.
I have read horror stories of rocks causing driveshafts to snap. Are there rock guards made for this machine? The rock guards on these machines are pathetic. There are no swing frame covers at all. You just have to be careful, especially when notch dozing or making tight turns because rocks can be carried up on the inside of the tracks and fall through the swing frames behind the sprockets.
How do I not have this happen to me? lol Hahaha. You will learn after you throw a track and have to reinstall it when you are out in the middle of nowhere.

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