lohr500
New member
Hi all, our sailing club in the UK has a 2004 Siromer 304, which is a rebadged Jinma as far as I can tell. It is the basic 304 model with a creeper box.
The battery isn't charging. When running the main tag on the alternator reads 14.6 volts, as do all the fuses on the fusebox apart from the main batteryfeed which reads 13.2v. This matches the battery voltage when measured on the live side of the starter solenoid.
My conclusion is that the ignition switch may be faulty with an open contact or high resistance contact when in the 1st position, thus not allowing current to fully flow back to the battery. Does this sound likely before I start testing continuity etc?
Any thoughts appreciated.
Should have added that when the key is turned to the heater plug setting the ammeter reads negative and the starter engages when the key is turned further. So in those two positions current is flowing from the main feed through the switch. Would the alternator continue to push out 14.6 volts if position 1 on the key was open circuit? It is a 4 wire alternator.
The battery isn't charging. When running the main tag on the alternator reads 14.6 volts, as do all the fuses on the fusebox apart from the main batteryfeed which reads 13.2v. This matches the battery voltage when measured on the live side of the starter solenoid.
My conclusion is that the ignition switch may be faulty with an open contact or high resistance contact when in the 1st position, thus not allowing current to fully flow back to the battery. Does this sound likely before I start testing continuity etc?
Any thoughts appreciated.
Should have added that when the key is turned to the heater plug setting the ammeter reads negative and the starter engages when the key is turned further. So in those two positions current is flowing from the main feed through the switch. Would the alternator continue to push out 14.6 volts if position 1 on the key was open circuit? It is a 4 wire alternator.
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