Jinma 224 Slow cranking,

[richg209]

Hi Guys,

Have an '03 Jinma 224. It was idling okay and then just stalled as if the fuel was turned off. Seems to have fuel to the banjo bolts at the injectors. Thoughts? While trying to start it again it is now turning very slowly. Charged battery over night and jumped with my Silverado, still turns slow. Did I damage the starter?

Thanks

 

[Bob Rooks]

Make sure all your battery cable connections (both ends) are clean, tight, and free of rust, paint, and corrosion. It this the original battery? Might do well to have it tested. How many hours on the tractor? Did you ever determine why the engine stalled? Did you crank it a lot trying to start it again?

 

[quicksandfarmer]

You'll get this behavior if the hydraulic pump is dead-heading. It's very common for the couplings to come undone. If this is what happens it will either stall the engine or blow up the hydraulic pump. You may have gotten off easy.

 

[richg209]

Haven't figured out why it stalled yet. Was just running it because hadn't used it in a bit. I would say 200 -250 hours. Meter went out few weeks ago and just replaced it. Tractor is primarily for pushing snow off the driveway. Yes, might have cranked it more than the "20 - 30 sec limit.

I will check the hydraulic connections and level.

 

[Dave M7040]

Hi Guys,

Have an '03 Jinma 224. It was idling okay and then just stalled as if the fuel was turned off. Seems to have fuel to the banjo bolts at the injectors. Thoughts? While trying to start it again it is now turning very slowly. Charged battery over night and jumped with my Silverado, still turns slow. Did I damage the starter?

Thanks

Typically banjo bolts at injectors are a drain line for small leakage within the injector. They are not a substitute for bleeding the high pressure line to each injector. Do them one at a time.

Re slow cranking: The very basic items need to be checked throoughly. the one often overlooked is the connection where the ground cable attaches to the engine block or tractor frame.

Remove it don't judge it by eye. Clean both metal surfaces. Buy a ground cable with an eye on each end. One end is attached to the ground cable point on the engine block or frame. The other end goes to a starter mounting bolt. Starters are grounded by contact with the engine block. It can happen that rust builds up between the starter and engine block and the ground connection becomes poor. If it does not make a difference now, it will in the future. if you have battery terminal repair ends on any battery cable this need to be changed to a factory made cable from an auto parts store.

If these basic steps don't work then you need to follow a step by step process and having a multi meter takes out a lot of the guess work. You can buy a multimeter for less than $10.

This link to two DENSO starting system trouble shooting will lead you to the problem if you follow it step by step. You wont have a carbon pile load tester but the voltage drop tests will tell you a lot.

http://www.dieselusa.com/productinfo/DENSO Starter_Alternator Troubleshooting.pdf
http://densoautoparts.com/Portals/D...s/file/DENSO Starter troubleshooting tips.pdf

Dave M7040

 

[richg209]

Pretty sure the starter is hurt. Going to get a new to solve the slow cranking.

Still concerned with it not wanting to start though. It was idling the last time it ran and just died. If it was a gas engine I would have thought it ran out of fuel. Today I went through all the priming procedures. I took off the hard lines and cleaned them thoroughly. While they were off, I cranked the motor albeit slowly because of the starter issue. Question I have is, how hard should the injector pump diesel like this? It was pushing it out, not squirting. I an thinking the stronger it turns the stronger the pressure from the injector pump?

Thanks for the help.

 

[Dave M7040]

Plse go to this thread and see what this guys slow cranking or no cranking was caused by.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/386717-tym-603-starter-battery-problem.html

The block was painted at the factory and then the ground cable bolted unto the paint. For awhile, the bolt threads provided the ground then they gave up.

Five minutes of scrapping off the paint on the block and great result.

Regarding bleeding at the injectors. Only a small amount of fuel will come out not like a gas engine fuel pump.

Having the throttle wide open will increase the amount of fuel coming out.

What kind of fuel pump does your tractor have to deliver fuel to the injector pump?. An electrical one or a mechanical one on the side of the block? If the pump delivering fuel to the injection pump is not working properly you will in effect run out of fuel.

Dave M

 

[richg209]

Dave,

Juice to the starter is good. I put 2 new cables on it about a month ago. Believe O ordered 00 gauge. At that time I ground the frame with a wire brush on a drill. Battery is relatively new, less than 6 months and I tried cranking with my Silverado. Eliminated key, neutral safety, still cranks slow. Fuel is delivered to the injector side mechanically. I have fuel to the injector side. At the banjo bolts at all connections I get fuel when cranking. Cracking the hard lines at the injectors I get trickles of diesel out. Motor never coughs.

Thanks,

Rich

 

[Dave M7040]

Leave the banjo bolts alone as they don't tell you anything of value

Do you have multimeter?

Instead of just buying a new starter, (and maybe that is the solution for you if you need it running asap), instead take it to a place repairing starters and alternators to have a diagnosis.
Also, those guys often have Chinese starters at very low prices. Sounds funny when your tractor is a Jinma doesn't it?

Is your tractor a manual transmission? If it is consider trying a tow with your Silverado to start it.
Have you ever tow started anything? Biggest mistake people make is having the tractor in a low gear and when they let out the clutch the back wheels just lock up.

Start with a higher gear like 4 low range and if the engine is turning over too slowly then move down a gear. Be in 2WD not 4WD.
Don't have too short a chain so you don't run into the back of the Silverado if the tractor fires up.
Wear a seat belt!!

I never like it when there are three problems at the same time which may or may not be related. Stalling, wont start, slow crank.

If a tow starts it, then you know it is only your starting system with a problem.

If it wont start with a tow, that is a concern as there is no point in buying a new starter only to destroy it with excessive cranking as you figure out what is wrong.

Your very first issue was stalling out. Figuring out why is critical to success. Does the mechanical pump have a manual lever on it so you can prime things with the engine stopped.Many machines only need a mechanical or electrical fuel pump under certain circumstances and the rest of the time gravity does the job. Where is your fuel tank?

Do you have glow plugs?

Plse post an overall view of your tractor then photos of the fuel pump, injector pump, the battery and the starter.

I know I am asking a lot of questions. For me a full understanding of your tractor is necessary for my advice to be good.

Someone else who has yet to post, may know from experience with a Jinma, what your problem is.

Dave M7040

 

[erj]

Rich,
Did you check the hydraulics as mentioned by QuickSand?
Disconnect the output hose on the pump.
Does fluid surge out when you crank the starter?