FARM PRO 2425 HELP!!!!!

[Travis_R]

Hey ya'll!

My name is Travis. I am 19 yrs. old and Love tractors. My friend has a Farm PRO 2425 tractor. I put 7 hrs. on it today with a 6ft. box blade. I need answers to the following questions ASAP before the tractor gets tore up because of lack of maintenance, adjustments, or non-awareness, etc..So, I will try to keep this brief.

1. If there is a load on the lift arms or not, hydraulic oil runs out of the hydraulic vent/check plug from behind the tractor seat. Oil gets ALL OVER the rear of the tractor. The lift is strong and picks up a 6ft. grader box with no problem. The tractor pulls it VERY well, also. I don't know what kind of oil is in the hydraulic system. The tractor has 65 hrs. on it. What is causing this and how much will it cost to fix it?
2. I am sure you know the tractor has power steering. It works well. Is it normal for the steering wheel to keep turning after the tires are turned all the way in either direction? If not normal, what is wrong and how much will it cost to fix it?
3. The P.T.O. lever moves to the 540rpm, Neutral, and 1000rpm positions, but the P.T.O. shaft doesn't spin. What is wrong and how much will it cost to fix it?

Thank you in advance.
Travis


/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[bluechip]

1. Oil coming out of the overflow. Is it foamy? The usual reason for the volume of oil to increase is air being introduced to the oil flow to the pump. Check all the fittings on the suction line (the metal line feeding into the side of the pump) and be sure they are tight. wipe the line clean and then look for oil seeping though anyplace that might indicate a hole in the line allowing air in. IF it has not been changed it is a chinese 30 wt oil. It would be best to put hydraulic oil in there for year round use, Universal tractor oil is good, especially in the south, 10W better in the colder climates.

2. Steering keeps turning. most likely cause is cylinder seal is bypassing internally.

3. PTO, Most likely cause is the short EN-DIE (engage disengage) lever by your left heal is not in the EN position. This is the main PTO shifter.

Is this tractor still in warranty? If so, the dealer can acquire a new steering cylinder, and if necessary address the overflow hydraulic problem.

If not you can dissasemble the cylinder and replace worn/damaged components or just buy a complete new one. We do have a new cylinder in stock here in central Arkansas.

Let me know if we can help.
sales@artrac.com

 

[Soundguy]

Another thought on the oil issue would be to check the hyd fluid level. I'v heard that it is no uncommon to blow a hyd pump shaft seal and pump hydro fluid into the crankcase.

If the hydro fluid is low.. good bet.

Soundguy

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'v heard that it is no uncommon to blow a hyd pump shaft seal and pump hydro fluid into the crankcase. If the hydro fluid is low.. good bet.)</font>
You really need to add a Jinma to your collection Chris. Speculation only clouds the issues at hand. This particular tractor has an external gear driven pump and an independent hydraulic reservior; a closed loop system that includes steering control. No way I can think of for hydraulic fluid to get into the transmission.

That big box in the center is the reservior. It bolts to the top of - and forms a coverplate for - the differential housing. The operator seat then bolts to the hydraulic reservior.

//greg//

 

[JohnS]

Yep, I agree, it would be hard to get the hyd fluid into the transmission. I believe what he heard about, is when the hyd pump blows its O-ring (usually from dead heading), it pumps the hyd fluid into the engine. Once the o-ring goes the pump shaft seal can't hold the pressure back.

 

[SPIKER]

John has done a LOT of searching to find out why the HYD foam comes out of the vent line. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif (which is the vent behind the seat on top with the level gauge on it.)

likely culprits are leak in the STEEL feed line (under seat goes up to the pump on the right side of tractor. has 3 bolts in a tri-angle patern under seat) has a small leak in it, or a hole. next items is the intake filter is loose lets the foam get sucked back into the pump that is under the plate with 3 bolts under the seat. have to remove seat and then the plate with 3 bolts and the big steel line. remove and clean the filter with some fuel and reinstall tightly.

next items is that old china 30 weight oil is poor hyd fluid. repolace all that with NON-FOAMING generic hydraulic fluid. usually B303 spec will work too.


the steering wheel still moving when the wheels are on the stops is not a major issue. can be fixed but if the wheels stay at the locked spot whth out requireing more steering input to hold it there then it is not an issue if you have to keep turning to keep the wheels aginst the lock then the front cylinder can be re-placed or fixed with new seals. otherwise it maybe not worry about that just yet.

major things to watch, do not start tractor with the quick disconncts removed or disconnected where they leave the pump and go to the FEL.

then next item is to go to JOHNS site /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif and read all the info there carefully... lots of good advice and info for novice china tractor owners...

Mark M

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Speculation only clouds the issues at )</font>

First.. no need to be rude here... I would imagine that user's with abrasive attitudes are one of the things impeding many from getting a 'U-wrench-it' tractor.. knowing that they will have to get tech support infor from other users.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( No way I can think of for hydraulic fluid to get into the transmission )</font>

2nd.. I read his message too fast and missed where he was getting too much oil. That was my mistake.. however you missed what I said.. which was what John mentioned... hydraulic oil into the crankcase.. and I did specify crankcase.. not tranny.

Soundguy

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( you missed what I said.. )</font>
I too, read too fast. My eyes say crankcase, but my brain registered transmission. For that I apologize.

But I take exception to rude and abrasive Chris. I've owned a Yanmar and two JDs, so you've likely seen me post occasionally in associated forums. I do not own a New Holland/Ford/International, so do not presume to give NH/Ford/IH owners advice about a machine that I've never even sat on. But my hands-on experience HAS been extended to Jinma and KAMA for the last few years, and it helps that I have the manuals. So I feel minorly qualified to assist other owners with SOME Chinese tractor problems. But you won't find me hovering about in any other tractor forums.

Travis - please excuse the off topic bantering. The important thing is whether or not you feel you've received the information you were seeking. BlueChip and Spiker did a great job of addressing your main questions. BlueChip has a dealer history with FarmPro, so he speaks with authority. And Spiker has a Jinma not much different than the one about which you're asking. JohnS hosts a Jinma-related website. So you're in good company.

//greg//

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( you missed what I said.. )
I too, read too fast. My eyes say crankcase, but my brain registered transmission. For that I apologize.

But I take exception to rude and abrasive Chris)</font>

No problem. It was just the 'tone' that grabed me wrong. But I do understand that it is easy to get the wrong impression from typewritten communication.. with or without emoticons.

You are correct in that I have very little practical experience with the jinma... I've driven a few and know a few people who have them, and one that sells them. A friend of my wife ( couple ) bought one when they got a small hobby farm, and they have been leaning on me for generic tractor advice,.. not specifically Jinma stuff.. though he has had a few small problems I had to go scratch my head over. He's not the internet type.. so now I'm trolling over here to try to build up my knowledgebase.

While I am still a proponet of these tractors.. The more I see.. the more I also see defects in materials and workmanship that I simply do not see in domestic brands.. even antiques.

For example. There were many tapped holes in castings that were simple drilled off center.. and then retapped out for the bolt to fit.. albiet cockeyed...right up on the center/top of the tractor.. one was for a j-shaped breather tube? That simple does not cut the mustard as far as manufacturing process goes. I think these tractors are neat.. but the chineese weally need to work on a few things.. and one of them seems to be compatibility issues on the machine. For instance.. I see many references in theis forum of the hydro fluid being too thick for the screens... yet that is what they are OEM'ed with... that looks like a product development issue...

Anyway.. not knocking them.. just think /wish the manufacturer would hurry up and 'mature' a bit... If they did I'm sure their market share would refleft the commitmant to a better product, thru increased sales.

Soundguy

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I see many references in theis forum of the hydro fluid being too thick for the screens... yet that is what they are OEM'ed with... that looks like a product development issue...)</font>
My take on that is that 30W oil is the cheapest thing the manufacturers can pour in, for the purpose of preservation during shipment. Sorta like cosmoline on new guns. Reputable gun dealers remove the gunk, then sell cleaned and lubricated firearms. Reputable Chinese tractor dealers replace the Asian stuff with the appropriate fluids before sale. So I believe what you've heard comes from self-importers who don't know any better and from customers of dealers that didn't either.

I see the standing of Chinese products in America about the same as was the Japanese back in the 60s. Remember when you used to turn something upside down to make sure it didn't say "Made in Japan"? The Chinese implement manufacturing process simply employs what's available there at the lowest cost; iron and labor. The defects you see may very well be as a result of the cottage industry approach; many jobbers providing a common part or casting, no two of which are ever exactly the same. And it's much apparently simpler for them to cast iron and steel than it is to stamp steel and/or use alloys. The result is a rough heavy product. Believe it or not, the valve cover on my 2004 KAMA is cast iron. I've never had cause to remove it, but it looks to be a good 60 pounds. This is just a small example of why I recommend potential owners buy more (Chinese) horsepower than they think they'll ever need

But also consider that fit and finish are reflected in the price. I tell these same potential buyers that they're buying 40-50 year old technology. Except for real-time parts availability, it's the old "fix it in the field" technology. In the end, ya gets what ya pays for.

//greg//