I wish it had a wider stance. When I first got the tractor, I rolled it using the FEL. Mostly because of inexperience. No damage done to it or me. Soon after I turned the wheels around to make them wider. It seemed to help a little. Now, 100 hours later I find myself wishing I had fatter tires installed. It seems like other tractors of comparable body size have fatter tires. Has anyone changed their's to wider tires? What about wheels? Does anything else fit them? Any suggestions?
I love my Farm Pro 2425....but...
- Thread starter vavtx
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greg_g
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I wish it had a wider stance. Any suggestions? )</font>
The wide stance is not recommended for FEL use, but there are four rear wheel positions - from narrow 1070mm to a wide 1250mm, and two positions in between. Measure your outside width - sidewall to sidewall. If it's not all the way out to 1250mm yet, we can help.
//greg//
The wide stance is not recommended for FEL use, but there are four rear wheel positions - from narrow 1070mm to a wide 1250mm, and two positions in between. Measure your outside width - sidewall to sidewall. If it's not all the way out to 1250mm yet, we can help.
//greg//
Neuropel
Member
Wow...I have the same tractor and I have the same concern. Did switching the wheels help much? I just moved to a house with a lot of hilly land, and I'm scared (I'll admit it!) to get it on much of a slope. I bet that rollover was one scary ride huh?!
Todd
Todd
greg_g
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I just switch the left to right on the rear, to keep the tread facing the right way. I left the weights where they were. Now they are on the inside of the wheels. )</font>
Did you measure before and after, to see how much width you gained with that switch? And are the rims (the part that holds the tire) now positioned inside or outside the spokes (the part that holds the weight)?
//greg//
Did you measure before and after, to see how much width you gained with that switch? And are the rims (the part that holds the tire) now positioned inside or outside the spokes (the part that holds the weight)?
//greg//
Wayne_Freeman
Gold Member
Here is a website where you can purchase a tilt meter inexpensively for your tractor. http://tiltmeter.com/ Yes, the pucker factor on grade is a bit scary but having the meter will show you if there is need for concern or not. I was always curious if a fatter tire would make a significant difference with stability. One of the first things about a Jinma you notice is the tires look too narrow?
greg_g
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( you can purchase a tilt meter inexpensively for your tractor.)</font>
No offense, but unless a "tiltmeter" has an effective audible warning capability - it has no business on an agricultural tractor. If you're working hillsides or slopes where tipping is a concern, your attention needs to be focused on the hillside or slope. As soon as you divert that attention to the task of deciphering a tiltmeter, you won't see that hole that your wheel just dropped into.
Short of training wheels, the only thing you should trust to keep a tractor on all four - is the person in the operator's seat.
//greg//
No offense, but unless a "tiltmeter" has an effective audible warning capability - it has no business on an agricultural tractor. If you're working hillsides or slopes where tipping is a concern, your attention needs to be focused on the hillside or slope. As soon as you divert that attention to the task of deciphering a tiltmeter, you won't see that hole that your wheel just dropped into.
Short of training wheels, the only thing you should trust to keep a tractor on all four - is the person in the operator's seat.
//greg//
Soundguy
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A small handfull ( 2-4) of mercury switches, a project enclosure, and a 12v buzzer, some wire, and double sided tape would fit that bill. Use a protractor to guess at some angles.. cut some backing material.. say? wood scraps on the bandsaw.. glue/double sided tape the switches to the wood wedges.. mount those wedges in the enclosure.. wire all the switches in parallel .. ground the buzzer.. run power thru the merc switches to the buzzer. Perhaps add a push on push off 'silencer' button.. mark the enclosure for north to help you orient it.. Maybee even add a level - style bubble gauge on it to mount it flat. 20 bucks in parts? less if you have some stuff to scavange thru.. like and old level with a bend or a broken siteglas or two.. Old ac thermostats are a great source of mercury switches.. as well as 'tip' switches (non mercury) from old electric heaters..
Orient it so that when rotated off the horizontal side to side at 'xx' degrees, a side switch makes contact. And old far door buzzer would suffice for the buzzer element.. those old electric heaters with the tip switches sometimes have buzzers as well.
Soundguy
Orient it so that when rotated off the horizontal side to side at 'xx' degrees, a side switch makes contact. And old far door buzzer would suffice for the buzzer element.. those old electric heaters with the tip switches sometimes have buzzers as well.
Soundguy
It is not always how much slope I have but, what I am doing with the FEL that I get into trouble. Sometimes just lifting on a slight slope or in a hole or sometimes transporting is when things start to get hairy.
I see what you are talking about I could gain another 1 1/2 inches or so by switching where the inside of the wheel attaches to to the outside of the wheel. I guess that would you give the widest stance. I may try that.
Yes, just switching the wheels made a big difference and I am sure doing what I just said would also help more. But what about wider tires and/or wheels? I guess more weight (either fluid or bolt on weights would also help. The tires do look too narrow for the tractor.
I see what you are talking about I could gain another 1 1/2 inches or so by switching where the inside of the wheel attaches to to the outside of the wheel. I guess that would you give the widest stance. I may try that.
Yes, just switching the wheels made a big difference and I am sure doing what I just said would also help more. But what about wider tires and/or wheels? I guess more weight (either fluid or bolt on weights would also help. The tires do look too narrow for the tractor.
greg_g
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Sorry. I made the error of assuming that you knew to use counter weight with the FEL. By all means ballast the rear; either fluid in the tires or a heavy load on the TPH.
Wider stance/bigger tires are not the solution to the problem you describe.
//greg//
Wider stance/bigger tires are not the solution to the problem you describe.
//greg//