61 hrs and the clutch is gone!

[Neuropel]

I have a Farm Pro 2425 with 61 hrs that I purchased in late Feb 2004. It has performed flawlessly up until this point, but it never gets much use (61 hrs in 1.25yrs). I'm currently building a barn, and let one of the Amish guys building the barn use the tractor for small jobs here and there (using the bucket to carry around lumber, move some gravel here and there, etc.). The clutch failed suddenly, and it only moves in LL 1 or LLR. I never ride the clutch since I was warned about premature failure when I purchased the tractor. Is it really likely that the gentleman using the tractor for maybe 5-6hrs could completely burn up the clutch, or does this sound like a faulty clutch? The guy that was using the tractor is quite familiar with tractors since he owns 2 of his own, and even does repairs for some makes and models of tractors and other equipment. Granted he is not used to using a FEL, but I still find it hard to believe that a part designed to give thousands of hours of use could fail so readily and quickly.
I'm assuming the clutch is shot. It makes a grinding sound when the clutch is released in any gear except LL1 or LLR. Everything else is engaged normally (PTO is off, and all gear selectors are in correct positions). The dealer I purchased the tractor from says a new clutch will be $400 or so, plus around $360 for labor. He's not even cracking it apart until the new clutch arrives. Has anyone else had a similar problem? 61 hrs does not seem like much time, even if it were being abused the whole time. Also, I noticed NO adjustment issues, no clutch smells, etc. Curious to know the thoughts of others, and whether there could be another problem.
Todd K.

 

[Tractors4u]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( tractor from says a new clutch will be $400 or so )</font>

I would find someone else to buy the clutch from!!!!!!! Did you drive up in a Mercedes and wearing a Rolex?

 

[timb]

Are you sure it isn't something simple like something suddenly flat coming loose in the clutch linkage rather than the clutch itself?

 

[Neuropel]

Well, it has all the symptoms of a bad clutch. It'd only go forward in the lowest gears. The clutch pedal seemed fine. I never checked the linkage to see if something was loose but I would assume I'd feel it if that were the case. Also, when I described the symptoms and backed the tractor off the trailer at the dealer's shop, he was confident it was a clutch as well. He did mention that a few times he's seen cases where the whole front portion of the clutch just falls off (defective clutch). I found the clutch priced at $295 at www.jinmaparts.com and showed it to the dealer so he said he'd probably use it to get a clutch for the same price. His price came in at around $400 when he priced it from his source. Any other suppliers that you guys know of?

 

[jwnge]

I bought my Mahindra trator from the guys who owns jinma parts and I personally doubt if you will get it cheaper or faster. He is a great guy and honest as can be...JohnJ

 

[JINMA224XR]

<font color="blue"> I found the clutch priced at $295 at www.jinmaparts.com and showed it to the dealer so he said he'd probably use it to get a clutch for the same price. His price came in at around $400 when he priced it from his source. </font>

Hey Neuropel,,

You should have taken off the inspection plate for the clutch adjustment/pressure plate and looked to see if one of the bolts had came undone. Your Dealer should have also done that, but then again, he would make more money, just going ahead and changing out a Clutch for you. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

I've got 120 hours on my little 224, pulling a 5ft box blade and I still have clutch pedal free play that has not needed to be adjusted yet,, So I think 60 hours is not enough to burn out a clutch unless it was being slipped all the time or if there was not enough clutch pedal freeplay.

Under a heavy load, I really can't say how much slippage that it would take to burn out a clutch, but since you were not the operator, you really don't know.

When you get your tractor back, remember, most likely, nobody, will treat your tractor as good as you will.

Have a nice day,
Joe/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

The word clutch is not just one part number. Dont know what parts were quoted to you? But if the word clutch is needed and the tractor needs to be split, then I would recommend replacing Clutch Discs, Pressure Plate, Throw out bearing [release bearing] , pilot bearing and flywheel inspected for resurfacing. If the clutch disc facing is what went bad?, then it is possible you will see hot spots on the flywheel where the clutch has been slipping due to adjustment or a heavy foot. Also heavy dust in bell housing. If it is linkage, bearing fork etc. and the tractor still has to be split to see problem or make repair. The clutch discs should be inspected for wear while it is a part even if the problem is not with the clutch pack. Lots of times you will have a hot smell from the clutch if it is or was slipping. [flywheel surface will tell the story on slipping] . Sounds like dealer priced a clutch pack[assembily]. Tommy at Affordable Tractors stocks the clutch assembly I think and is smart on the parts that are needed.

Ronald

 

[SPIKER]

I agree with the others here, the price quoted seemes high to me, (I have enough to rebuild mine now when I bought my tractor but I'm not selling it /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif ) 60 hrs is not much but it should have been inspected & adjusted at 50 hrs for initial wear. there was a few reported cases of the clutch lineing shearing off a bout a year or so back on NYCTOA or on the old CTOA site.? anyhow adjustment is not too hard JOHNS'S site has a procedure there to adjust freee play as well as clutch primary adjustments and secondary ones too. also note OIL can leak into the area if the weep hole gets plugged then it could cause severe slipage. FEL use on clutches is #1 faiulure if not done right, NEVER RIDE THE CLUTCH. use LOW GEARS & 2 whl drive only. when filling bucket of dirt/gravel pile LL1/2 gears with a close eye on the bucket raise the bucket as the lip starts into the pile, raising slowly so it fills it with out pushing the pile...


anyhow I woudl have pulled the FEL inspection cover (I did this by only removing one side of the FEL bracket support & inspected & adjusted my clutch pack & wrote the procedure on JOHNS'S wide site so I do know a little about this problem... I'm not going to second guess anyone though as there could be MANY things that could have gone WRONG not jsut one...
/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Makrm

 

[greg_g]

Been operating gear tractors for over 40 years, never went through a clutch 'til two years ago. One of my JM254s went through it's OE clutch in 50 hours. I complained about clutch noise the day I took delivery. The dealer's response was "it's under warranty, bring it back if it breaks". So I did - and he cheap-charlied me, only replacing the driveline disc. 10 hours later, clutch is shot again, had to winch it onto the trailer. Turned out to be a factory defective clutch pack, and the 2nd repair (again under warranty) involved replacing the entire clutch pack and bearing set.

Moral of the story; think clutch pack. Then send the OE out for a rebuild.

//greg//

 

[Neuropel]

The price I was quoted was for the entire clutch pack. I see no reason, if you go to the trouble of splitting the tractor in half, to do anything less. I'm just thinking more and more that it is a defective part somewhere. I NEVER rode the clutch when driving the tractor, and it had 55+hrs on it before the new driver even saw it...which means it had to happen within 5-6 hrs of use. I think if one were going to TRY to burn up a clutch you'd be hard pressed to do it in this short amount of time.
I do trust my dealer though. He in fact has already told me that if it's something other than the clutch he will push the company to kick in for the repairs. Can someone point me to this "John S's" site that I keep seeing mentioned?

Thanks,
Todd K.