Hydraulic output screw plug?

[mantis166]

Thanks to all of your help, I made it through the fluid change ordeal and learned a lot about my new 284. Your instructions sure make a lot more sense after the fact. Seems easy to follow now that I have done it, but wouldn't have missed the learning experience.
Came across this nob under seat above hydraulics. Parts drawings seem to call it the 'hydraulic output screw plug'. What is it for and when and how do I use it? Still searching for best deal on a brush hog so no implements tried yet. Any suggestions on new Jbar ($700) weighung 380lbs. vs Deere 5ft. LX ($975) at 500lbs.

 

[bluechip]

The knob restricts flow from the lift cylinder when lowering 3 pt to cushion the "fall", lowers slower. If you are talking 5' brush mower, those prices seem high, might be your area, we have been getting $599 for Agri 5 (big bee) weight is between those you list (not HD) these implements are regional so will vary quite a bit in price.

 

[greg_g]

More commonly referred to as the flow control. Because the TPH will be tasked to lift both light and heavy loads, the flow control regulates how fast the load will drop when you use the raise/lower lever to lower.

It really would be helpful if you'd put more info in your profile, I had to search your old posts just to figure out what kind of tractor you were talking about. The TPH on your 284 is typically rated to lift up to 875 pounds, but the front end is kinda light. THIS FELLA seems to be quite pleased with his JBAR. And unless you get a quick hitch of some kind, you might find installation/removal easier to handle than the 500# cutter. As a 3rd alternative, I had very good performance out of an IMC 500 (International Machinery). See http://i11.ebayimg.com/02/i/01/36/5a/ad_1.JPG for a photo. Can't tell you the weight, but it should be priced midway between the JBAR and the JD.

//greg//

 

[CSH]

Should one be able to adjust the output screw with the engine running?

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Should one be able to adjust the output screw with the engine running? )</font>
Yes, but it's not unusual to find them locked up on new tractors. They basically rust in place because of all the moisture accumulated prior to the actual sale. It's a delicate removal job and a WD40 cleanup. One time fix, the flowing hydraulic fluid should keep it free from that point on.

//greg//

 

[bluechip]

I just drove 2150 miles in 48 hours so I'm to tired to read the whole thread, so if this was mentions, ignor me. but there is a set screw that locks this knob in position. Also you cannot really adjust if if you have weight hanging on the 3 point...

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( but there is a set screw that locks this knob in position.)</font>

I used to be able to do that in my younger days, but 700 miles behind a steering wheel is about all I can handle in a day any more. My hat's off to ya.

But to clarify on the set screw statement; Mantis, think of the water faucet on the side of your house. The set screw Chip mentions is in place to stop only the counterclockwise rotation of the valve in the socket. This prevents the operator from backing it out completely, and flooding the floorboards with hydraulic fluid. The set screw itself should not prevent normal rotation, and is usually only backed out if/when the valve is removed from the socket.

//greg//

 

[Scozz]

Chip ... delivering tractors to New York??? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif ... Scozz

 

[bluechip]

Not that far, only Virginia. I usually use a contractor to haul, but couldn't get one in time for this delivery... I used to think $1.25 per mile was a bit much....not anymore!