Newbie Jinma 224 question

[TSMART]

Just bought her brand new, I have no experience with tractors.

When I need to put the tractor on the road and drive say 2 miles, I need to go faster. If I start out in a high gear the engine bogs (as it would in a car). When using higher gears, should I give her more RPMS and pop the clutch slowly, or do I try to upshift as I would in a car? Or, should I just stay in the same gear and shift from lo range to hi range??? Since you cant shift in an instant, that means the tractor would be coasting for a short period while out of gear, and that seems scary to me... Thats not really easy to do when you dont know the tractor so well.

I know this is a really basic question, but I dont want to mess up the tractor! Or myself!! Thanks, and I am LEARNING.......

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

TSMART, Don't try and shift like a Car !!!! Bad News can happen!!!! {another topic]. Put the tractor in high gear....give it close to half throttle......start letting out on the clutch slow [ not pop] and when the tractor starts rolling...let the clutch pedal on up fairly quickly while giving it full throttle..... then start pulling the throttle back off to slow down ....it's going to be a little fast till you get use to throttle and speed. Go SLOW on TURNS. Practice and remember where the brake pedals are.......you can do it!

Ronald

 

[ToolManRick]

I have a section of road I occasionally take a trip on. If your new unit still has the 30w oil in the tranny it's difficult to shift from 1st gear to 2nd to 3rd gear because the gears spin pretty freely and you'll get a little grind. I replaced my tranny oil with 90w mineral oil, also known as GL-1 (no additives) and can easily shift from 1st to 2nd gear if I double clutch it. Believe me, 2nd gear at mid throttle is pretty fast. I think I've had it in 3rd gear a couple of times and that's too fast for the section of road I travel.

Never shift the HI/LO or creeper gears unless your completely stopped.

Another good rule is to not use the brakes to slow you down, let the engine compression do that. If your going down a hill and unsure of the tractor then start out in a lower gear and be safe that the tractor will not run away. By allowing the engine compression to control the speed and not using the brake everything will last longer. The brake is really more of a parking brake or if they're not locked together you can make a really thght turn by braking the wheel inside your turn. You might want to add an indicator light on the dash that's connected to the brake circuit. It's real easy to drive around with the parking brake lock on.

Happy tractoring!

 

[billbill1]

Rick, where have you been? Haven't heard from you lately?

 

[ToolManRick]

Been bustin' my butt on the landscaping! Also it's been pretty busy where I work and just haven't had much time to play. I still check out the board nearly everyday, just haven't been taking the time to post. Glad to know someone missed me. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[hbaird]

If you are running on hard surface be sure and check your tire pressure. My 200 was hard to keep on the road because of low pressure. The power in H3 will get better with more running time but you may need to have your injector timing reset for good H3 performance.
Harold

 

[bluechip]

not directly concerning your question, but be sure never to operate on hard surface in 4wd...

 

[TSMART]

You are so right , tool man...I tried the 3 high gear and it was too fast....scared me even on the grass. I will try these shifting techniques...

I was not going to change oils/fluids till the 50 hour mark. Do you think I should jump the gun if I know the tractor still has the chinese lubes in it?

If I do that, could you suggest what to use for oil and hydraulic fluid...central florida, hot climate.

Thanks everybody. You made me feel welcome here even tho I know very little about tractors. Just want to learn and do the right thing as well as protect my investment.

Remember your first new tractor? I feel like I just bought a new car...really excited. Last night I cut the lawn in less than half the time it took me with my little garden tractor mower.

Stay tuned, cause I will be using the FEL for the first time this weekend! Hey, its a Koyker!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[MarkNHow]

TSMART

You will find many different opionons about fluids & filters. I think you're best bet is to do a search on lubricants or fluids and read the posts and then make your choices. My dealer told me to wait on the Chinese fluids so I waited until 25 hours but after seeing what was in there I would have changed mine right away. Ther are quite a few others with the recommondation to change right away also.

Here is another web site with a lot of info that you could check out. http://www.johnstractor.homestead.com/

Mark H

 

[JINMA224XR]

<font color="blue"> I was not going to change oils/fluids till the 50 hour mark. Do you think I should jump the gun if I know the tractor still has the chinese lubes in it?

If I do that, could you suggest what to use for oil and hydraulic fluid...central florida, hot climate.
</font>

Hey TSMART,

My recommendation is: Check creeper to make sure that you have oil in that reservoir(AS SOON AS YOU GET THE TRACTOR HOME). Then at least flush the transmission, creeper, transfer, and front drive with diesel fuel or kerosene, as prescribed in the owners manual. As soon as you can, preferably right now. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif There are many many posts on this, and I would follow Gregs Advice. Don't take any chances with the oil passages being clogged up and a bearing not getting lubrication to it.

I started out with 80w90 gear oil in the transmission and then switched to 85w140 @ about 80 hours. I did this because the temperatures are so warm down here on the Gulf coast and to maybe prevent leaks. I used the SuperTek brand at WalMarts. It's cheaper and antifoaming and compatible with copper and brass. The transmission seemed to shift better with the 85w140 gear oil, and so far I have no leaks at 130 hours. For the Hydralics, I used the SuperTek Tractor Hydralic/Transmission Oil. Not all WalMarts carry the Tractor Oils, so you will have to check to see if your store does.

On shifting to high gear. I start out in 2nd HH, and then double clutch to 3rd HH. If you don't know how to double clutch, then it is best to stop the tractor and then engage 3rd HH. The less clutch slippage the better. But you don't want to put too much pressure on the clutch plates either, as they are trying to engage each other. Basically, you just want to give the engine enough gas to keep from going dead, while you are engageing the clutch and getting the tractor rolling.

Hope this helps,
Get your tractors Running &
Have a nice day,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif