Update on injector pump oil

[George_Martin]

The oil finally started coming out of the overflow of my injector pump at about seven ounces. Quite a big difference from the 2 to 3 ounces that came out when I pulled the drain plug on my new 284 with 20 hours. I guess this is a real testament on checking all fluids on new tractors especially since the Chinese lubricants may not be the best.

 

[JINMA224XR]

<font color="blue"> The oil finally started coming out of the overflow of my injector pump at about seven ounces. Quite a big difference from the 2 to 3 ounces that came out when I pulled the drain plug on my new 284 with 20 hours. I guess this is a real testament on checking all fluids on new tractors </font>

Hey George,

Just changed out the Fuel Injector Pump Oil also, on my 224. I did as Greg suggested and changed over to the Air Compressor Oil/Campbell Hausfeld Brand. At Wal Mart, it is 2 dollars for a pint. There are 2 drain plugs on the Fuel Injector pump. One on the bottom of the Overflow side and One on the bottom of the Fill side. I poured in the whole Pint, nothing was coming out, but after walking back from the trash can to discard the empty pint container, I noticed that it had started dripping from the overflow. I let it continue to drip overnight to make sure that the oil was at the correct level.

I was also warned against using a detergent oil, as one has said, that a detergent oil, keeps the debris suspended, rather than a non detergent oil, letting the debris, fall to the bottom. Also, I read on the Air Compressor oil container, and it said using a multigrad oil, can cause carbon to form. Just a thought.

Heck, I really don't know which is the best oil to use in the Fuel Injector Pump, but Greg, seems to know, what he is talking about.

I also noticed that the Air Compressor Oil, is very very clear.

Get your tractors running &
Have a nice day,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[3RRL]

This is certainly true. It was a good thing many members suggested to "be sure to have your dealer fill the tractor with all oils and grease" and then "you follow up behind them to check yourself." My KAMA 554 came to me without hardly any grease in the front end drive system. I went through 2 large tubes of grease before I got the knuckle joints and the outside front hubs to sqeeze out grease. Worse, I have greased the 4WD "T" joints (inside of the wheels) and have yet to figure out where it is coming out?
Does anyone know how much grease those take? Each time I use the tractor I push in about 20 pumps of grease there and still no noticeable exit grease.

 

[3RRL]

I have not checked the injector pump oil on my KAMA yet since I have not been up to my property since the last posts. I found out some interesting information from other members.
I did however, check every other level on the tractor. They were all filled except the tractor hydraulic reservoir was quite low. I used AW32 to add a couple of pints until the dipstick showed a reading.

 

[JINMA224XR]

<font color="blue"> I have not checked the injector pump oil on my KAMA yet since I have not been up to my property since the last posts. I found out some interesting information from other members. </font>

Hey Rob,

Mine, does not have a dipStick, for checking. Only 2 drain plugs and the fill plug on mine is, by removing the small screw in breather. Mine is a Jinma 224, and it may be a little bit different on your Kama. But GregG, will know for sure, as I think that he also has a 554Kama or maybe it is a 454, can't remember exactly, but he should be able to steer you in the right direction.

Tie a string around your finger to remember. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Get your tractors running &
Have a nice day,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[3RRL]

Indeed, Greg has been very helpful on the boards.
I'll have to do it this weekend to check it out. I'm bringing up compressor oil, now that I'm convinced on using that as well. My point is that my tractor was not serviced as thoroughly as it should have been by the dealer. I fully expected to deal with some problems on the tractor because I got a great deal and it is a Chinese tractor. But to ship it out to me with low fluids and grease was not right. Just asking to have a major breakdown if it was not checked.

It started when I read a sticker on the Koyker Loader to check and tighten the main bolt. It was tight so I started to check every single bolt I could find on the tractor itself. Several had worked their way loose and many took a couple of wrench turns to torque down. Took me about 3-1/2 hours to work my way around the tractor.(I'm slow and old) That's when I only had about 15 hours on it.
Then I started with checking the fluid levels as posted above. By the way, my dealer told me I did NOT have to change fluids until the first 100 hrs on it. How do you feel about that?

 

[JINMA224XR]

<font color="blue"> Then I started with checking the fluid levels as posted above. By the way, my dealer told me I did NOT have to change fluids until the first 100 hrs on it. How do you feel about that? </font>

Hey Rob,

Personally, I think that 100 hours is too long, on the original fluids.

On mine, I also found some reservoirs, either too full or too low. I attempted to drain some of the over full engine oil out, but let out too much. So I didn't know exactly what oil, was in there, and I just drained it out and put my oil in. On the Hydraulics, they were allready too low, so, once again, not knowing which oil they had in there, I just drained it out and put my oil in. The transmission oil, was at the correct level, so I waited for about 40 hours to change the transmission oil out in mine.

On the beginning Oils, I was told to change out the engine oil at around the first 10 to 20 hours and then pickup, with the maintenance schedule as per the Engine Operating manual's instructions. There have been several posts on pulling the Hydralic pumps intake strainer to clean and check for small metal particles, that might restrict the oil's passage, especially, when using a front end loader.

Personally, I do whatever, my intuition, tells me to do, to stay prudently safe, and to try and get as much durability out of my tractor as humanly possible.

Probably as long as the tractor has adequate and clean lubrication, that is really the most important thing, but sometimes, I do a little bit extra, just to try and Hedge my bet.

Just be careful, when greasing not to put too much grease and blow a seal. When I'm not sure about how much grease, or if it is allready full, then I use my "Feel Technique", to either stop or to put more. Using my manual grease gun, when I start to feel a little bit of back pressure, then I stop pumping. On some of the greaseing points however, there is no back pressure felt at all. 2 of those points on my tractor, are at the Rear Wheel Axles. So when i grease those 2 fittings, I just put about 10 pumps in each and forget it.

The weather has finally started to cool off a bit where I am, and I am starting to do a complete service on the fluids and to retorque my headbolts, check valves, etc, etc., it will be a lot of fun, and I will be in my own element, while listening to the football games and music on the radio, in the garage. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Get your tractors running &
Have a nice day,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[3RRL]

Hi Joe,
That's pretty much how I feel about it and that's good advice.
I'm planning to do a service (change all the fluids) now. You mentioned "putting in about 10 pumps" in those areas that have no backpressure. I know this is probably OK, but normally greased joints and bearings need to be adequately greased because there is no flow such as in closed oil reservoir lubrication.
I build systems where grease is used in my plastic injection molds that I've specifically designed to have some "backpressure" when full with grease. Otherwise you risk the chance of not getting all the moving componants and have pre-mature wear in those areas.
And unlike oil lubrication, for faster moving parts, grease will lose it's viscosity when heat is applied and tend to drip down into whatever reservoir the components are housed in. The pressure build up is not nearly as great as in a closed oil system. That's why I'm concerned about getting enough grease to those front "T" joints on the KAMA.
But...then again...that's why I only grease 10 or 20 pumps so far...Ha!

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I was also warned against using a detergent oil, as one has said, that a detergent oil, keeps the debris suspended, rather than a non detergent oil, letting the debris, fall to the bottom. Also, I read on the Air Compressor oil container, and it said using a multigrad oil, can cause carbon to form. )</font>

I'm pretty sure I know where that old wive's tale came from, but he's not allowed to post here anymore. You should have been warned against using NON-detergent oil. You WANT all that compressor carbon "suspended" by the oil, so it doesn't turn into shellac. Multi-grades are detergent oils, so they're better than straight non-detergent 30 weight. Consider compressor oil as EXTRA detergent oil - keeping the carbon suspended BETTER than simple multigrade detergent oil.

Same thing with the engine, except it's diesel soot you want suspended - instead of compressor carbon. Uncontrolled diesel soot turns into oil pan sludge. Non-detergent single weight oils don't do good enough job (if at all). Whereas there are detergent single weights, multigrade engine oils give you the best of both worlds; detergent action AND all season use.

//greg//

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Consider compressor oil as EXTRA detergent oil )</font>

Better check what you buy. Last air compressor I bought came with a bottle of 'compressor oil' manual stated to use that oil, OR non detergent 30w oil...

Soundguy