Jima Y385T powered Mazda Pickup

[jmacshriver]

Mother Earth News Magazine

Looks like someone else has jumped on the Tractor engine band wagon.

 

[danthefamilyman]

Hello everyone,
It has been over a year since I have updated the Jinma Mazda pickup story. Yes, I still have the pickup and yes it is still running (quite well, I must say) I now have 40,000 miles on the engine and it is still running great. I have had no problems with it. This last summer I drove it to Lincoln City (on the oregon coast) with a small load of firewood (for a week of camping) and I still drive it most every week. I also took a heaping load of firewood to my parents house in it.

I have been very happy with the pickup and the Jinma (Yangdong) engine. The engine is getting a little dirty (I have not cleaned it since it was installed) and it drips a little oil in the garage, but it seems to run a little better every month.

I took the starter out and oiled the bushings (it was starting to squeal) but other than that I just drive the crud out of it.

I will keep you informed of any big developments...

Thanks,
-Dan-

 

[SPIKER]

Dan:

glad to hear it is still plugging along! also good so see you back in here have not heard from you in long while. Wish I had the same abilities as you in the machining areas, I can buy some NEW CAT engines that are surplus from work 65HP $2800 bucks each brand new less than 1/2 the cost I think it would drop into the F150 pretty slick
Mark

 

[danthefamilyman]

Hello everyone!

It had been close to two years since I have updated everyone on the Jinma Y385T powered Mazda Pickup.

Here is the update:
I have been running the truck a few times a month until this spring when I (again) blew a head gasket. This is the second time I have a blown a head gasket on the engine. This time it was real bad, engine coolent got into into the number 2 cylinder and hydo locked the engine. I pushed it into the barn - and there it sits.

I really doubt that I can use the stock Jinma head gaskets, they really do not seem to hold up.

I am thinking about using a solid copper head gasket and then adding head gasket leak liquid to help seal the little leaks.

If that does not work, then I am really running out of ideas of how to keep this little engine running without blowing head gaskets. The engine has been running great other than the head gaskets. I am really happy with the truck. The Y385T engine seems plenty tough, other than the head gaskets.

I have 45,000+ miles on it, it has proved it's worth a hundred times over, I have hauled tons of river rock, hay and dirt with the pickup. I have run the living crap out of that little engine, I can't believe it has run as far as it has.

Any thoughts?

I hate to leave this project with this head gasket problem, but I am running out of ideas.

Thanks,
-Dan-

 

[Rich Waugh]

Are the block and the head truly flat? Most of the time when an engine keeps blowing head gaskets it is because the head is warped or the block needs to be decked.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Here's something that's worth a try. Use property class 10.9 head studs (instead of bolts) with hardened washers and property class 10 nuts. Torque up in two stages (lubricate threads with anti sieze), first stage being 70% of the final torque. Increase the original torque setting by (edit: 5 ft. lbs.). Continue to use the OEM composition gasket. Cat and IH have used this fix before on similar problems. Make sure all mating surfaces are impeccably clean and coat both sides of the gasket with gasket shellac.
http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/Permatex_Indian_Head_Gasket_Shellac_Compound.htm

Note: As Rich stated, make sure the deck and head are perfectly flat ± .0005".

DON'T USE ANY STOP LEAK OF ANY KIND!

 

[SPIKER]

Hi DAN:

I think BOB has a very good plan for the issue of the head gaskets, better studs and proper assembly torq after assured flatness.

If that does not work it may be the sustained high RPM (over rated RPM) is probably pretty hard on that little engine.

Soft Copper gasket would also work with proper thickness so as to not lighten up on the compression much. As far as lube on the gasket cast iron to cast iron should not be required as they heat at same rates and move same amount.

I'm not sure if they make a "better gasket" anywhere but I would think there are someone out there in China that has dealt with this issue already. BlueChip or Affordable should be able to find out as they both are great dealers with contacts over there..

Mark

 

[RonMar]

Third vote on the head studs. That is how we keep the boosted toyota 22-RE engines alive and well...

 

[Diamondpilot]

I agree to make sure the head and block are flat then use the factory gasket and aftermarket studs. Many many of these motors are running around with these gaskets with no issues.

Chris

 

[Soundguy]

are there any aftermarket gasket options available?