Jima Y385T powered Mazda Pickup

[danthefamilyman]

(One question, didn't you have balance issues after you removed all of that meat from the flwheel?)

Yes I did. (I just added three pictures on "My Gallery" that shows the flywheel machining) The original flywheel had about seven 1/2" 'balancing holes' drilled in it. However once I dialed it in on the lathe it was discovered that the factory had machined the flywheel .0015 off center from the mounting flange. (This may not sound like much but is is huge with a heavy flywheel spinning at 2600 RPM) During the lathe operations the flywheel was brought to within .0002 of true center and I had to drill seven 1/2" holes on the other side of the flywheel to bring it back into balance.

If anyone would like to know how to balance a flywheel at home with no special tools to within 1/8 of an ounce let me know. I was taught how to do it by an old WWII machinist before he retired. (It's fairly simple once you see someone do it, but hard to explain on paper)

Thanks,
-Dan-

[danthefamilyman]

[Where did you get the engine? How much did it cost? Did you go with the 28 Hp for size or cost?]

I got the engine on EBAY (Like the one that's on there now) I bought it from a guy in Washington state. I think the name of the company was coldwater tractors or something like that. I paid $975 for it (I had to pay for shipping) They guy was great and I would recommend him anytime.

I went with the 28 HP because I had read an article in the newpaper about 3 or 4 years ago that stated that the average car on the freeway uses on average about 25 HP to go 60-65 MPH. (That was really when the idea started) I looked for several years before my brother bought a Jinma 284 and called me saying how much power it had, when I found the engine on Ebay, I bought it.

Thanks,
-Dan-

[danthefamilyman]

(Hey Dan, What do you have the valve lash's set at? Did you adjust the the high speed throttle screw, to get up to 2650 rpm's? Have you retorqued the Headbolts?)

I have not re-torqued the headbolts, I do not know the best way to do it. Some of them appear to be under the main rocker-arm shaft. What is the best way to torque the headbolts? I would love to hear how you did it.

I Have not set the valve lash yet. How often should I do it?

Yes, I did adjust the high-speed set screw to get to 2650 RPM.

Thanks,
-Dan-

[HGM]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( <font color="blue"> </font> (My counterpart at work is in the process of installing a Perkins(out of a Ford Ranger) into his "B" truck.. The issue will be titling it.. How are you handling that?)


<font color="black"> </font> When the installation was done on my pickup, I had increased the angle of the motor by about 5 degrees. This has not caused any problems possibly because the truck is a extra cab and has a CV joint between the two drive shafts. (The rule of thumb for engine swaps is the centerline of the engine/transmission shaft must be as close as possible to the angle of the centerline of the input shaft of the rear-end) The CV joint may be saving me from driveshaft vibration.
The good news about the Mazda pickups is that the front end steering components are very low, at the same level as the frame cross member allowing you to set the new motor low in the frame without having to make/ modify a new oil pan. (I used the stock one that came with the Jinma) Also the Mazda has adjustable front end height that uses torque arms, so if your new engine more heavy (the Jinma was) in just a few minutes you can adjust the height back to stock. )</font>

Dan,
Thank you for the detailed explanation.. What I was really asking is about the tag and title process needed to make it legal... Sorry for the confusion, I misread my question when reading it back.... Thanks again..

[JINMA224XR]

<font color="blue"> I have not re-torqued the headbolts, I do not know the best way to do it. Some of them appear to be under the main rocker-arm shaft. What is the best way to torque the headbolts? I would love to hear how you did it.

I Have not set the valve lash yet. How often should I do it?

Yes, I did adjust the high-speed set screw to get to 2650 RPM.
</font>

Hey Dan,

Here is the discussion that we had on retorqing the Headbolts and adjusting the valve lash on the Y380T and Y385 engines. It is seven pages long and humorous at times. I followed JW Smith's method, compliments of Dick/Thingy, and I think that you will know how to retorque the headbolts and adjust your valves after you finish reading it. Keep in mind that it was a learning experience for me and the others, as we discussed the procedure. Also, you will also find out how to make MoonShine too, I suppose there was a lot of drinking going on during that discussion. [img]/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] It really was a fun discussion no joke.

Here's the link:
http://nortrac.proboards26.com/index...ead=1107491554

The engine manual suggests checking and/or adjusting the valve lash every 100 hours. So I would do it as soon as possible for the durability of your engine. One person reported a very tight valve lash on his and mine were mostly within tolerance on the loose side, but were off quiet a bit, either from wear in on a new engine or from the initial setting at the factory.

I was wondering if the High Speed Adjustment screw, would actuall give a higher rpm. As I adjusted my high Speed screw a while back, but have not put the tractor to work, to see if the adjustment actually did raise the rpms. I only raise mine up about 100 to 150 rpms, if I did the adjustment correctly.

While you are at the owners forum, I envite you to join us and keep us all posted on how the engine is holding up.

Have a nice day,
Joe [img]/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]

[RonMar]

Cool Project!
IRT adjusting the valves, I found it easiest to just remove the rocker arm assembly as I was going to adjust those after I re-torqued the cylinder head anyway. That way I could grip all sides of the headbolts with a regular metric socket and not risk damaging them using a foot that dosn't grab all faces. I did measure the valve clearances before I removed the rocker assembly. Just loosen the mounting bolts around the assembly a little at a time to release spring pressure and not warp the assembly. Re-install the same way making sure nothing binds as you tighten the bolts. When I did this at 50 hours, I found my valves on the loose end of the spec in the tech manual but they were consistent for all intake and exhaust valves. I also Found quite a bit of debris at the bottom of the rocker arm assembly bolt holes from when they were tapped.

[danthefamilyman]

(Thank you for the detailed explanation.. What I was really asking is about the tag and title process needed to make it legal...)

Oh sure, I can install an engine, but can I READ is the real question!!!
Sorry about the answer, I thought that you were asking about engine tilt..not title!
(see what my poor wife has to put up with?)

As far as engine tilt, I think I have said enough...

On the other subject at hand..
Here in my little corner of Oregon (I live in Aumsville) we have no EPA for vehicles so you can stuff whatever engine you want into anything you want. As long as the driver behind you can see through the smoke, everyone will probably leave you alone. The truck came with a clean title when I purchased it, so I am just driving it with that title..

It would be fun to see if it would pass EPA smog tests running on 100% bio-diesel.

Well, I don't know if I answered your question or if I am brain-dead again. My wife sometimes has to ask me the same question 3 different ways before my remaining brain-cells finally get the concept.

Keep on trying..I'll get it sooner or later...

Thanks
-Dan-

[HGM]

[img]/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] No problem, I appreciate the info... [img]/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

We're in Metro Atlanta and have to deal with emission testing, so I guess he'll figure it out as he goes... The funny thing is they are giving him a hassle because "you cant change the fuel type" on the title....(???) Its difficult talking to non technical people about technical things.. You'd think that since this truck was originally built in Japan with this engine and the Ford Ranger was builtwith it in the states, the whole process might be easier, but some people dont grasp the idea of there being different engines, let alone fuel types [img]/forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]..

[michigandon]

You know Dan, there's an MG sitting on the side of the road on my way to work that I go by every day. And it's been out there for at LEAST 2-3 years now. I think I might have just figured out a good use for it. [img]/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] [img]/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[Soundguy]

I wonder how they(title) handle fuel conversions.. Lots of vehicles can be setup for multiple fuels.. etc..

Soundguy