Jima Y385T powered Mazda Pickup

[Soundguy]

Are you putting the head gasket on dry.. or have you tried anything like copper coat or aluminum coat.. a spray on type thin sealer that many use for problematic head gaskets. Some even use plain old aluminum spray paint with good results.

Also.. if it is a very minor leak, you may try a good quality ( read: good ) liquid sealant.

I'm not a fan of mechanic in a can.. however, when i was trying to track down a possible radiator leak on my ford 5000, the CNH dealer sold me a bottle of brown stuff that CNH runs thru every rebuild where the head came off. has some pump conditioners in it.. plus some fines that , as the label on thee can said.. can seal up a head gasket. for a whopping 3.99$ I tried it. Dealer said if I didn't have a leak.. it wouldn't hurt.

In the end my issue was simply an overfilled radiator... however.. that gunk may be worth a try. Can't be too bad if the dealer reccomends it.

Also.. i have a couple buddies that work at a gm dealer. He says they have some 'tablets' that they throw in the radiator of ever rebuild or removed head, for the exact same purpose...

good luck

Soundguy

[SPIKER]

Where is it leaking at the head? anti-freeze into oil, blow by into radiator? or oil into intake? some answers could help pin point the reason. was the head & blocked cheked for true flatness/warps?

podssably check for a better coper gaskets or possably o-ring seals. that is a fix for sure.

keep us posted it looks great how many MPG you getting now after the 13K miles?

markM

[bluechip]

Hi Dan, keep us posted, I'm guessing 13000 miles is something like 300 to 400 operating hours, and at high RPM, it will be a good test of the Yangdong engine.
By the way, it is a dry sleeve engine so the liners moving wouldnt dump your coolant into the oil sump anyway...

[tat2z1969]

Go to a drug store buy a bottle of sodium silicate, known also as water glass. empty coolant out, refill with straight water, dump in the sodium silicate, run up to temp for about 1 to 2 hours. Drain system, leave rad cap off over night and block petcocks open.Next day fill it back up and run it. It should fix your leak.

There are adjustments for the rack on the pump, to get a lot more fuel it takes spring changes inside, also the injectors can be modified to handle fuel pressure up to 3000 psi.

If you turbo charge the engine the piston have to be changed to a deep dish center crown type, for the turbo to work correctly and not run engine lean and burn up the pistons. Stock pistons will fry. Manly performance in Toms river New Jersey can make them for you, they made 2 sets for me for Jinma 354's my sons run as pulling tractors.
You can modify a Banks turbo to work but it does take fabrication.
Banks turbo and the pistons will run close to $2000.00


Jim

[danthefamilyman]

Right now what I am facing is blow-by into the radiator. It's not alot right now. It seems to be leaking from the far two cylinders into the little coolent holes between the cylinders. My feeling is that I might have a defective liner or some crud under the liner that is holding it "up" too far. Just a theory.

My mileage is unchanged after 13,000 miles. I still am getting 42-50 MPG. Oil consumption is about 1/2 of a quart in 2000 miles.

I hooked up the air conditioner. It works well and I did not notice any loss of power with it on and running. I can still go down the freeway at 65 MPH with it on.

Other than the nagging head leak this is working out great!!

Thanks,
-Dan-

[danthefamilyman]

Right now what I am facing is blow-by into the radiator. It's not alot right now. It seems to be leaking from the far two cylinders into the little coolent holes between the cylinders. My feeling is that I might have a defective liner or some crud under the liner that is holding it "up" too far. Just a theory.

My mileage is unchanged after 13,000 miles. I still am getting 42-50 MPG. Oil consumption is about 1/2 of a quart in 2000 miles.

I hooked up the air conditioner. It works well and I did not notice any loss of power with it on and running. I can still go down the freeway at 65 MPH with it on.

Other than the nagging head leak this is working out great!!

Thanks,
-Dan-

[danthefamilyman]

(By the way, it is a dry sleeve engine so the liners moving wouldnt dump your coolant into the oil sump anyway... )

What is a "dry sleeve" engine? Isn't the coolent surrounding the liners?

-Dan-

[danthefamilyman]

(By the way, it is a dry sleeve engine so the liners moving wouldnt dump your coolant into the oil sump anyway... )

What is a "dry sleeve" engine? Isn't the coolent surrounding the liners?

-Dan-

[tat2z1969]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( (By the way, it is a dry sleeve engine so the liners moving wouldnt dump your coolant into the oil sump anyway... )

What is a "dry sleeve" engine? Isn't the coolent surrounding the liners?

-Dan-
)</font>

No a dry sleeve liner drops into a bore, looks like a cylinder but machined out to take the liner.
A wet sleeve liner has coolant against the liner, the sleeve doesn't sit in a bore, when you pull one you will see open water jacket, but not on a dry one.
I doubt very much a liner moved on you, they are a bi**ch to pull with a puller, sometimes have to weld a bead up the liner to generate enough heat to pull one, depends how long the engine has been run.(Old Mack trick)
In my opinion you have a head gasket leaking. These gaskets are not like Fel Pro, they are not self sealing, in other words don't have sealer built in the gasket like most American head gaskets do.
If you have to change the head gasket, go to a parts store and get Indian head brand Black shalac and put it on BOTH sides of the new head gasket. That will seal it up.
While it is a part take a straight edge and check the block and head for straightness, lay the straight edge on its edge and use a feeler gauge under it, If you can fit over .005 under the straight edge you have a warp problem.

[tat2z1969]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( (By the way, it is a dry sleeve engine so the liners moving wouldnt dump your coolant into the oil sump anyway... )

What is a "dry sleeve" engine? Isn't the coolent surrounding the liners?

-Dan-
)</font>

No a dry sleeve liner drops into a bore, looks like a cylinder but machined out to take the liner.
A wet sleeve liner has coolant against the liner, the sleeve doesn't sit in a bore, when you pull one you will see open water jacket, but not on a dry one.
I doubt very much a liner moved on you, they are a bi**ch to pull with a puller, sometimes have to weld a bead up the liner to generate enough heat to pull one, depends how long the engine has been run.(Old Mack trick)
In my opinion you have a head gasket leaking. These gaskets are not like Fel Pro, they are not self sealing, in other words don't have sealer built in the gasket like most American head gaskets do.
If you have to change the head gasket, go to a parts store and get Indian head brand Black shalac and put it on BOTH sides of the new head gasket. That will seal it up.
While it is a part take a straight edge and check the block and head for straightness, lay the straight edge on its edge and use a feeler gauge under it, If you can fit over .005 under the straight edge you have a warp problem.