Jimna 224 shuttle shift repair.

[TSMART]

Today while working the tractor, I went to shift into forward, and nothing there. No "force" against me, just a free-wheeling shuttle shift lever. Last time that happend, the problem was with the linkage right at the bottom for the shuttle shift lever shaft. This time, that wasnt the problem.

Right where the actual slave lever goes into the trans, (under the tractor) there is a pin there, looks sorta like a .22 shell casing, just smaller, anyway, I sheared that pin. So the lever at the trans is free-wheeling.

That looked like a mighty cheap pin there, is there a good home remedy for this cause the dealer is far away from my house.

Another question.

My tractor now has 61 hours on it. It likes to refuse reverse often, the dealer said this was gonna happen since it is new. But is there any adjustment I can make to that same shift lever because I do not think I am actually pulling the lever far enogh to grab reverse. So far double clutching has gotten it in and YES, I am sure I was rough on the shuttle shifter which probably is why the pin broke in the first place.

Anyway, sure is nice to have a forum like this to ask a good question.

Thanks!!!

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[danthefamilyman]

(That looked like a mighty cheap pin there)

Sometimes light duty pins are used for a reason. It's much better to replace a light duty "weak link" pin on the outside than break some other component inside the transmission.

If it looks like a .22 casing that may very well be the reason.

Be careful if you replace it with something stronger (better?) and then 'force' it into gear.

BTW, it may sound silly but 'rocking' with your body weight while attempting to shift (with your foot off the brake) may help get it into gear. Depending on the surface you are on.


Thanks,
-Dan-

 

[TSMART]

Is that little hollow pin a genuine Jinma part? Or can I get the same thing at an Ace hardware store?

What you say makes a lot of sense. I was going to bend a nail thru it there but now you have made me think twice. Thanks.

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

TSMART, If I understand you correctly ..... That is an Roll pin that broke. It is metric... I dont know the size.

Try to remove it with an punch the same diameter as the pin/hole. You will need to replace it with a roll pin so it will not have any play there.

You have two adjustments,,,, one on that rod under the floor pan and at each end of the shuttle shift cable.

You should be able to feel it go all the way into gear.

Proper clutch adjustment effects transmission shift also.

Some auto parts stores carry metric roll pins.


Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[TSMART]

I was able to get the pin out. Just not sure how long it is supposed to be..., I guess not much longer than the shaft....I only have one piece of it. The other piece
isn't in the hole, it fell clean out....

How are those pins installed? Just forced in with a channel lock?
Or do you have to hit it with a punch?

Thanks for the advise, I will go to auto parts tomorrow. At least I know what the parts name is now!

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[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

Ya got step one done ..... it can be a little longer than the diameter of the shaft..

Put a taper on the end of the roll pin with an bench grinder or file..... it takes solid even blows to get it started and to drive it in.


Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[greg_g]

You just tap them in with a small hammer. Use a block of wood if you're worried about damaging the end of the pin. Don't use a punch though, unless the tip is larger than the inside diameter of the roll pin. A punch tip exerting pressure inside the pin will spread it - but you want it to compress as it goes into the hole.

I don't have a 224, but I do have a shuttle shift. Based upon my experience with a pair of 254s and this KAMA, you'll likely have to rack up at least a 100 hours before the gearsets get rounded off enough to engage more naturally. I personally don't consider these Chinese machines as fully broken in till after 300 hours.

//greg//

 

[Affordable]

That roll pin is taking alot of pushing and pulling, when we replace this pin we also put another smaller roll pin inside of the first one for added strength.Adjustments can be made like Ranch hand has said,also check the routing of the cable to make sure it's not binding anywhere.

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales Co.

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( That roll pin is taking alot of pushing and pulling, when we replace this pin we also put another smaller roll pin inside of the first one for added strength.)</font>
I've done something like that in high stress applications. Except I used a nail instead of a 2nd roll pin. I select a nail with an OD equal to the ID of the roll pin when compressed. Driving them both in at the same time prevents the roll pin from coming out the other side. When the roll pin is in place, I then cut off the protuding section of the nail. A few drops of oil helps in rusty/dirty situations.

//greg//

 

[TSMART]

I got the old pin out, it sheared on both sides so I pried the trans shift lever off, punched out the pin. No problem there.

Went to Kubota dealership (jinma dealer much farther away) they gave me the correct roll pin, longer than what it needs to be but definitely would work. The ends were already beveled.

And so after taking off the stuff that was in my way, I had a clear shot to insert the pin from under the tractor. Thats where thats where my problem is now

. I have followed all advise, either I cant whack it hard enough cause I cant get a swing at it, or it is just plain stubborn. It is very hard metal.

So, CAN I..... go to lowes and get a big THICK cotter pin and use it till I can get the tractor to the dealer for my 50 hour? (ok, tractor now has 61 hours on but it'll git done)

Sure would be easier. I know the roll pin when inserted properly will have NO slop (play) and unless I am very lucky the cotter pin wont match the ID exactly so there would be some slop, but that would at least get me going. I could double clutch if needed to get in gear.

I would certainly break the cotter pin before the roll pin cause it is so soft....yet after hearing how you guys try to toughen up even the roll pin...the cotter pin would prob only last a day.
I know it is a "high stress" area with me jamming on the gears.

What do you think??? Thanks!!!!



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