Farm Pro 2425 Clutch

[Ed_B]

Well I think I did it. Trashed the clutch on my 2425. I was brushing a food plot for deer and tried to push over a small tree. There was no noise indicating a major failure. I put the tractor in reverse and it just wouldn't move.

Tried all the obvious. Checked the Hi/Lo levers 4WD levers, etc.

I don't feel anything when I depress the clutch, like a throw out bearing being bad. When I depress the clutch and engage/ disengage the PTO, it's like have no clutch at all, the PTO gears grind.

I can shift gears, with no grinding. When I release the clutch, no movement is detectable, like the clutch is slipping. There is no smell like burned clutch. There is a rattling noise when the tractor is in gear with the clutch released. No noise when it is in neutral.

Before I start taking things apart and calling Tommy, any ideas?

 

[greg_g]

Remove one or both of the clutch inspection plates on the side(s) of the bellhousing and look inside. There should be three clutch levers (fingers) almost touching the face of the throwout bearing. One probably isn't. If you're lucky, it's a just a broken roll pin - the one that holds the lever axis pin in place. Hopefully no critical parts fell into the bottom of the bellhousing. If not, it's a simple enough job to put everything back together through the inspection ports. If so, you're looking at breaking the tractor in two.

//greg//

 

[Ed_B]

Thanks Greg.

Is losing a finger a common problem? I worked on lots of clutches in my Marine Corps days. Saw them exploded, burned etc., I don't ever recall a finger coming off though. Of course, that was a long time ago.

You think I can fish around in the bottom of the bell housing with a flexible magnet to retrieve parts? I looked at the clutch adjustment that Spiker did on John S's site. Things look pretty tight in there.

Like I said in the post there was no noise, it was like something just let loose, I didn't hear anything rattling around in there. I will keep you posted.

Ed.

 

[greg_g]

Is losing a finger a common problem?

Unlike what you commonly encountered in the MC, this is a two stage clutch. PTO first, driveline second. Only takes one out of tolerance finger to make that PTO engagement noise. The drive line will still engage/disengage (for a while). Don't know if I'd categorize it as common, but I'm pretty sure this is the clutchpack that several owners have reported broken roll pins or axis pins. Some of them have been lucky to be able to remedy the issue through the inspection ports with replacement pins. If/when parts actually drop though, makes one wish for a bottom inspection port too !! A parts magnet may work in some situations, I don't remember if that axis pin is stainless or not.

//greg//

 

[Affordable]

Ed,could be a broken roll pin in the clutch engagment fork,remove the inspection covers to see if the fingers are moving the clutch any when depressed,if they are you may have to do the clutch,either way you would have to split the tractor to replace the roll pin if thats the problem.Just let me know if we can help with anything,we have what ever parts you may need

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales

 

[Ed_B]

Hey Greg and Tommy:

Got to the clutch inspection hole through the FEL mount. Nothing unusual no oil, no signs of anything broken, no burnt clutch, looks brand new. Three fingers. TO bearing and fork doing their jobs. Still not moving. Engaging PTO w/ tractor running and clutch depressed still grinds like I have no clutch at all. When I rev the tractor with the clutch in the PTO keeps right up (I still have the mower attached).

I think I read a post about the PTO disc sticking to the pressure plate. Maybe?

I am going to pull the top off the tranny and creeper tommorow see if everything looks o.k. in there. I was thinkig maybe the main shaft could have busted, but that doesn't explain the PTO main/drive dilemma.

Ideas are welcome.

Thanks for everything so far.

 

[greg_g]

I think I read a post about the PTO disc sticking to the pressure plate. Maybe?

Maybe after a prolonged idle period in damp conditions. But not likely on one that was actively working when the problem occurred. Something broke, it's just a matter of finding out what. Won't hurt I guess to lift the housing covers for a quick look. But the gear oil level inside the housing probably won't let you see much. Be prepared to cut new gaskets though, I seriously doubt you'll be wanting to reuse the OE gaskets. Oh, and it's not a good idea to run the engine with the covers off. Messy!

Clearance between the fingers and the throwout bearing should be between 1 and 2 centimeters. With the tractor NOT running, can you try to move each finger individually to make sure one of them isn't flopping around? Use the compression release, then use a big screwdriver as a lever to rotate the clutchpack so you can test all three fingers. Does the clutch fork actually move fore and aft proportionate to the distance the clutch pedal travels?

My two Jinmas had that annoying noise with the clutch engaged, it was louder in high range. Can't find it in the archives, but Chip Uren has mentioned a couple of times that noise is due to some O-ring problem - but I don't remember any more specifics. At any rate, I don't think it's related to your current issue.

//greg//

 

[Affordable]

I agree with Greg something broke, If the clutch fingers are moving,makes me believe clutch,if the PTO disc was stuck,you should still have tractor movement on the second stage of the clutch. Don;t worry about the gaskets yet,we have replacments lets get the problem solved first.

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales

 

[bluechip]

So we have a main disk that will not engage, and a PTO disk that will nto fully disengage. There have been a couple postings in the past of the main disk hub breaking loose, that would explain the lack of burnt clutch smell and lack of motion. the failure of the PTO to release coudl be a separate problem or maybe some of the main linings may have come off the disk and wedged together, keeping pressure on the PTO disk, it does not take much to make it rotate enough to cause grinding when engaged or attempt to engage. I have not heard of a tranmsission input shaft breaking, but suppose it is possible. if something has to be broken, better the main disk, much easier to fix although splitting the tractor seems a big job, it is not too bad if you have a couple floor jacks and or an overhead hoist of some type. you will need a couple wedges to stabilize the front axle pivot, or build a cradle for the engine and roll the rear end away (after disconnecting anything that crosses the point where the engine and bell housing join.

 

[Ed_B]

OK. I'll break her in two. I had to order an ATV jack $59.00 not too bad, I guess. I have a floor jack, lots of wood and a couple of jack stands and plenty of help.

I THINK either Bluechip or Tommy had posts on the procedure, what do I wedge in the front to keep the it from rotating on the axles? The CV joints?

I will try to do a step by step for the Forum, with pics. I'll get back when ATV jack comes.

Thanks for the help all you guys. . .