ford 555B backhoe ring gear?

[tx_swordguy]

Looks like I am facing a flywheel ring gear replacement in the future. I have not tried to use a pry bar to rotate the engine a couple of teeth for it to engage better teeth yet (if it can even be done with the hydraulics on the crank). ? is would it be easier to pull the engine out by itself? or split the backhoe? Got to thinking it may be easier to pull the engine jus up and out far engouhg to pull the flywheel.
Mark

 

[gatractorman]

You will have to split it just enough to get the torque converter off the flywheel then remove the flywheel.

 

[RickB]

The loader and hoe frame supports the cab/platform and bolts to the rear axle. There isn't a way to 'split' the machine as one would a farm tractor. Start at the front and remove the front cowl, radiator, front axle, then the engine. Replace the torque converter flex plate while you have it opened up. Flex plates have been known to fail. Consider replacing the rear main crankshaft seal and the three soft plugs in the rear of the block and head as well.

 

[gatractorman]

No, leave all you can intact. The engine, front nose, radiator, front axle can be split from the trans. case as a unit just as you would a tractor. Raise and support the front bucket, support the loader frame on both sides, finally support the trans. case before you roll the engine away.

 

[RickB]

No, leave all you can intact. The engine, front nose, radiator, front axle can be split from the trans. case as a unit just as you would a tractor. Raise and support the front bucket, support the loader frame on both sides, finally support the trans. case before you roll the engine away.

Of course that is correct. not sure what I was thinking last night. Too many hours out in the cold yesterday, or at least that's my story, and i'm sticking to it.

 

[tx_swordguy]

Ok guys going for bailing wire and duck tape fix opinions. I am thinking there are probably only about 6" worth of severely dinged teeth. Has anyone ever tried pulling the starter and building up the leading edge of the teeth with a mig welder and filing it flush with the rest of the gear tooth. I am thinking I would have enough room, but have not gotten that far with it yet. I am also aware of the reality that eventually I will need to break the hoe apart (just not looking forward to it especially since I just bought it). It is a farm hoe so it is not needed on a daily basis. Seems like a couple of hours spent with a file and welder VS an entire weekend tearing it apart(if I am lucky) for a bit more ring gear time would be worth it. Any reason NOT to try it?

 

[RickB]

If you get the ring gear hot enough, it may shift on the flywheel, although that may not happen. If you must weld on the ring gear, be sure to place the work clamp (ground) on some part of the crankshaft or front pulley. Grounding through the main bearings will be disastrous. If you get a fire started in the bellhousing that won't be pretty. I'm not sure why putting the job off will make it easier or cheaper later on. I'd channel the effort towards a new ring gear now. Using a hand file on MIG weld is going to get real old real fast. You might want to practice that on something else first. You leave too much material in there it could trash a starter nose or starter drive pinion.

 

[gatractorman]

Excellent advice Rick, swordguy, I'd say by the time you get done with what your planning you could split it and do the job right.

 

[tx_swordguy]

Fair enough guys appreciate the advice. Did not think about the starter getting eaten up, I just figured the fillings would fall to the bottom of the bell housing . This is why I threw the question out to you guys . I will start with the starter and go from there . Thanks again Mark