Stunning find on Kubota 161 BUT is rubber ok..?

[millpond]

All: I have been shown a 600hr 161 that needs new rubber tracks, and the offering level is EXTREMELY fair. The issue is rubber vs steal. Many of you have told me that in the woods you need steal, but I'm not a commercial logger and I will be the only owner/operator. If I put 50 hours a year on the machine I'll be lucky. If I'm in wet/muddy areas I can be careful, but can somebody explain how I would throw a rubber track vs why steal won't..? If you can buy a 161 with rubber/brand new rubber don't you think I'll be able to work the woods in the right conditions..? I'm talking about a machine that is 12k less than any other offer out there..Help me understand why rubber is NOT going to work...Thank you.

 

[art]

I won't rent a rubber track for any kind of demo work at this point. The reason is the potential of the tracks being cut while using the blade to grade back in the hole.

I think with the right operator it would not be a problem in the woods! That is as long as your woods isn't on a slate bed! Rounded rocks shouldn't hurt the track, tree roots are strong but normally round so you shouldn't have much of any issues to worry about.

I'd use caution as to the amount of grading with the blade and use the bucket as much as you can for the clearing.

 

[millpond]

Art: Is the pushing / traction with the blade down less with the rubber than with the steal..? I won't be running over trap/rock or broken concrete. It is for trail building and tree/stump removal when the inevidible blow downs occur. Any words of wisdom on how to prevent rubber from throwing its track, or is that issue largely overblown.

 

[Brahmus]

I believe it's overblown. The rubber tracks don't get quite the traction and can be cut easier, but if you are making that great of a deal, and you are the only operator, go for it. Just remember if you get into a tight area, that 161 is fairly large, watch what your do and dont' try to spin around over a stump etc. Like mentioned, us the bucket as much as possible, the blade helps stabilze and should only be used for minor pushing.

 

[millpond]

So it's the spin against something really solid that kicks a rubber track off, but if you are in a big mud puddle the spin move should not throw the track. because mud has accumulated in the idlers/sprocks.? I can see how getting on top of a stump with just one track and full weight of 161 trying to pivot pulls the rubber away where steal would hold longer. Pushing after top scratching should be about the same as steal right ? The cleat work seems quite deep on the rubber so I would think they would be the same.

 

[Brahmus]

Typically yes, trying to rotate in place and pinning against something while spinning the track. I've personally never had a problem throwing a rubber track, and I'm not gentle with the equipment. I still get decent traction, but it's just not as good as steel.

 

[kthompson]

Sure no rubber track expert but I think all rubber tracks have steel cables to prevent their stretching which I believe you think might happen. You do need to keep them adjusted to prevent being slack and coming off.

I have a rubber track 5 ton excavator and used it a lot behind loggers with no issue of track damage. No rocks. If any damage was nothing serious. At same time have used the rubber tracks on both my lawn, mother in laws and daughter with very little sign left. I really think the rubber has less traction than the steel would but per my manual the blade is designed for pushing dug dirt back into a ditch or such. It is not a dozer.

 

[Cooter Brown]

I have rubber. I do demo work, clear land, spread stone, go in the woods etc.
I personally would not buy steel.
I also have a CTL with rubber tracks and put it through everything and I just have never had these issues with cut tracks.
In the woods on a 161 the steel will not be any advantage.
As far as pushing a track off on a stump it will be tough to do that.It will have to be a unique situation.

How much is the machine?

 

[PILOON]

About the only area I would not want to use rubber tracks is dynamited rocks as they cut like razor blades. There you need steel pads for sure.

I have sunk rubber tracked excavators (not by choice) in boggy marshy soil literally up to the cab and still 'got her out' using the stick & bucket to push or pull as required and never threw a track.

Also tracks get thrown when the tension is not right.

If you turn SLOWLY in little bursts rather than locking a track and spinning on it you'll never throw a track.Also using the stick to gently lift the inside track while turning helps and you can use the stick swing to help as well.

The killer is loose tracks and sharp turns with the inside track locked.

You'll get it with practice.

Have fun!

 

[millpond]

Cooter 32k and working to get half the new tracks paid for. So max 33.5/34k out the door with just 600hrs.