Tips on removing/installing pins and bushings

[slan]

Hello.
We I think its about time to replace a few pins and bushings on my ford 655-a

I have been working on the front end kingpins and steering linkages and am in the groove now so I might as well move to the back end.

Questions.
How hard will it be to remove the old bushings from the boom end and center swing post? Do I need a press or just a good drift and sledge?

Also, how hard will it be to get the new ones in?
Some one told me to keep them in the freezer until just before I install them but I cant see what diff that small a temp diff would make on the size of the bushing?:laughing:
Liquid nitrogen maybe, but wow, would they ever shatter...:shocked:

My service manual says an appropriate puller and step plate???

Any tips or pictures would probably save my shins from the sledge.:drink:

 

[KWentling]

To remove the bushings, first try the hammer and punch. If they are too stubbern, welding a few beads around them if they are steel will shrink them, just don't burn through and weld them to the bore! If they are brass a heating tip in an O/A torch will shrink them if you heat in a couple of places until the brass is melting on the surface across the full length (kind of like brazing). Both those options you need to cool them before knocking them out. Other options are air arc if you have one, or carbide burr bit in a die grinder to split them. Liquid nitrogen works great to freeze bushings for installation. We do it daily at work. Dry ice or dry ice and acetone works good too. Just putting them in the freezer will help. The colder the better. You can also heat the part the bushing is going in until spit bounces off or even until the steel just starts to turn straw color. If it's a large piece you need to heat the surrounding area some too or you might actually make the bore smaller because steel expands when heated and to an extent will go in the least restricted direction, which might be to toward the center of the bore. I work in an industrial machine shop and these are things we do daily.

Kim

 

[Gale Hawkins]

What about when the bore was after the bushing long since wore out? I have two lower ones like that on our 310B JB FEL. It was like they were not greased.

 

[AKfish]

What about when the bore was after the bushing long since wore out? I have two lower ones like that on our 310B JB FEL. It was like they were not greased.

Oversized bushing... larger OD same size ID?

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Oversized bushing... larger OD same size ID?

I have not been to the pin and bushing store yet so I not sure if they sell them or not. One guy said rebuilt the bore with a welder.

 

[Jim in ICT]

Doubtful that you'll be able to get any LN2 unless you have a safe method to transport it. At -320 degrees you probably shouldn't attempt it without proper safety gear, sleeves, gloves, glasses, face shield, etc. Also, nitrogen as a gas is heavier than air and care should be taken in transporting in a vehicle without proper ventilation. If it should change from a liquid state to a gas, it could displace the oxygen in a vehicle.
Try using dry ice for freezing parts, it's a whole lot easier to aquire and work with as a solid. Have a well insulated cooler and pack the dry ice on top of the parts so the cold temperatures drop down to the part. At -110 degrees, the dry ice may be enough to shrink the bushing without making it brittle. You still will need a good pair of insulated gloves to guard against frost burn.

 

[AKfish]

I have not been to the pin and bushing store yet so I not sure if they sell them or not. One guy said rebuilt the bore with a welder.

I have heard that suggesstion before, too. That leads you to wonder about the final dimension and the alignment of the hole and how well the bushing and the pin will fit.

I don't have a drill press big enough or a table stout enough to line up the dipper for a good "hole shot"!!

 

[KWentling]

What about when the bore was after the bushing long since wore out? I have two lower ones like that on our 310B JB FEL. It was like they were not greased.

I oversized the pin holes in my front end loader using 4-flute drill bits in a horizontal boring mill. I went from the standard 1" out to 1.250 pins (no bushings). 4-flute bits work pretty good in out-of-round holes. Could have bored the holes but this was quick and easy. If there is a decent sized machine shop around maybe they could do the same to yours. I've also seen and used hardened split bushings that will work in oversize holes if they aren't worn too much. Baum Hydraulics and McMaster Carr have them I believe. Welding and re-machining can be done also but small bores like that it is usually easier to just go up a size and user a larger OD bushing.

Kim

 

[Toyboy]

Dry ice is the way to go. I tried liquid nitrogen once at work to see how well it would do on axial piston pump sleeves. Took them down too far and could not get good adhesion to the barrel bores when they expanded. Put your bushings in dry ice for about an 1/2 hour and make sure you chamfer or radius the bore before driving them in to avoid shearing metal on the outside. Make sure you start them strait, a driver is really helpful with that. You won't have much time before they warm up so you have to work fast.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Thanks for the input. The major wear point on the loader is it the bushings that are part of the loader arms (where the curl cylinders attach) and not the bucket or other removeable apart. I could remove the arms and get the pin holes reamed out to a larger pin size. I can keep them greased and be fine for years but now when using the curl feature to flip out trees from the dig hole after I push them over it does a lot of popping. If they were fitted well it would reduce binding when I am abusing them under that kind of stress.