bad wheel bearing on AC dozer
- Thread starter laitec
- Start date
Eagleview
Veteran Member
I doubt it has a bearing in the idler , it would more likely be a Sintered Bronze bush that any machine shop could turn up for you . I doubt it would have metal face seals , probably Leather or felt that you could make .
Dirthog
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2005
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- 342
- Location
- pa
- Tractor
- Kubota L48 Kobelco sk100 Kobelco sko35 case 450 Mack R600
that machine does have bearings in the idler also they are a metal seal with a spring type follower to keep pressure on the seals. but by the looks of it not only is the bearing out you have also tore up the shaft and the outside covers that hold the bearings and seals and maybe even the idler itself
Sorry for the delay. This is the first repair job I've done on a dozer so I called the local heavy equipment repair man to get the track off. I have ruined things in the past by thinking I could do it by myself. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif
I was glad I got help. I learned a couple of tricks to get it off for anyone who has never done this before. First you run the dozer until the king pin is located on the rear wheel. Then you take a short piece of pipe and wedge it between the frame and the pin. Then you cut off the two plates next to the king pin so that you can heat up the links next to it. Heat up the two sides red hot. Then take the biggest sledge hammer you can find and start driving. If it gets stuck try cooling it off by pouring water on it, or heat it up again. Once you have the king pin out and the driving pin is in the link then move the dozer until the link is up front and take out the pin. I've got the wheel off now and it looks like I need to take it to a machine shop to press the axle off. The seals do look like they are leather. I am waiting for a reply from Highway Equip. of McKean Pa to see if they can help with parts. I'll try to post a picture soon.
I was glad I got help. I learned a couple of tricks to get it off for anyone who has never done this before. First you run the dozer until the king pin is located on the rear wheel. Then you take a short piece of pipe and wedge it between the frame and the pin. Then you cut off the two plates next to the king pin so that you can heat up the links next to it. Heat up the two sides red hot. Then take the biggest sledge hammer you can find and start driving. If it gets stuck try cooling it off by pouring water on it, or heat it up again. Once you have the king pin out and the driving pin is in the link then move the dozer until the link is up front and take out the pin. I've got the wheel off now and it looks like I need to take it to a machine shop to press the axle off. The seals do look like they are leather. I am waiting for a reply from Highway Equip. of McKean Pa to see if they can help with parts. I'll try to post a picture soon.
When I tore the old bearing apart I found only the races intact. The leather seals with metal rings to hold them in place plus the bearings were all gone. There would have been a lot of work involved to repair the old idler wheel. Instead it was cheaper to buy the idler wheel new and complete with no exchange from highway equipment. They had a complete idler wheel for less than 300 plus shipping. Taking the track off was the hardest part. The new wheel is not the same style probably so they could save on casting. The completed repair is shown below.
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Eagleview
Veteran Member
What a bargain , well done .