KUBOTA L48 TLB

[717WALTERS]

I HAVE A '02 L48 THAT KEEPS LOSING AN ENGINE OIL PLUG THAT LEAVES ME WITHOUT OIL PRESSURE. THE DEALER TELLS ME THAT THIS PLUG ( I THINK HE CALLED IT A "FLINCH PLUG" ) IS USED TO SEAL THE PREDRILLED PORT HOLES THAT SUPPLY THE OIL TO THE FILTER, PRESSURE GAUGE,etc. THIS PLUG IS SAID TO RESEMBLE A SMALL MUSHROOM IN PROFILE,MADE OF RUBBER, THE STEM OF WHICH IS INSERTED INTO THE DRILLED HOLE AND THE TOP PRESSED AGAINST THE OUTSIDE SURFACE TO FORM A COMPRESSION FIT???? TO REPLACE THIS PLUG,REQUIRES REMOVING THE BUCKET AND SUPPORTS, MOVING FORWARD THE FRONT AXLE AND PULLING THE ENGINE. ALL OF WHICH THE DEALER TELLS ME IS REQUIRED TO REPLACE A $2.OO PLUG !!! SERVICE CHARGE $4.000!!

ANYONE OUT THERE EXPERIENCE THIS ON A L48 TLB???

P.S. 100 HRS LATER, AFTER SERVICE, I HAVE NO OIL PRESSURE. COMPANY SERVICE POLICY?? TWO MONTHS WARRANTY ON SERVICE. WHO PUTS ON 100HRS IN TWO MONTHS DURING THE WINTER MONTHS. WHAT'S A HOME OWNER TO DO ??? ANY HELPFUL ADVICE OR SUGGESTIONS WILL BE APPRECIATED.

 

[irwin]

Time for you to call several dealers and get some advice for this specific part and what can cause it to fail within that short time period.

If the job was done properly, I'd say you have a problem that needs to be fixed before replacing another plug. If the part rarely fails and there's nothing wrong with your machine, then likely the job wasn't done correctly.

Although it's possible someone on here has experienced a failure of that part, but it's also very possible that you're the only one on TBN that's run into this.

If you're the first member to have this issue I hope you'll stick around and keep us informed with your experiences and let us know what the dealers tell you... if you get no satisfaction with the local dealers, contact Kubota directly and ask for help to isolate the underlying problem. Do not agree to shell out cash without answers, an answer to the question of why twice in 100 hours.

BTW: all capital letters is yelling in internet forum etiquette.

Oh yeah.. Do you have a parts manual? I have one for my L35 and it's been a real help with identifying parts.

 

[717WALTERS]

Thanks for the lesson on internet etiquette. I appreciate your response.

We have the complete shop manual and there is no reference to this plug. The dealer shop policy is strickly adhered to. Contacting the rep.for Kubota was a real experience, Not only did he eat my face off for contacting him about an expired warranty, He offered no advice or suggestions.

I guess Kubota sales are sky high.

Hey Tim,...Thanks for getting back to me. I'm entertaining the thought of replacing the engine, shade tree style, if I don't get a good price as advertised "as is"......
.........Walt.

 

[irwin]

Sorry to hear the Kubota rep was so unhelpful.

If I was in your position I'd contact Messicks and ask them for a parts list for your engine... They've been a big help to me over the years with my Kubota L35, my New Holland L555, and my Cub Cadet 1541...

Before you get too discouraged, see if a image of the engine components will help you understand what's happening. Even if you have to buy a parts manual it'll be worth it... Kubota Parts

I just requested a parts diagram for your engine from them.. do the same, lets see if we can't figure out what's happening to your machine.

All the best, Tim

 

[Eagleview]

THIS PLUG IS SAID TO RESEMBLE A SMALL MUSHROOM IN PROFILE,MADE OF RUBBER, THE STEM OF WHICH IS INSERTED INTO THE DRILLED HOLE AND THE TOP PRESSED AGAINST THE OUTSIDE SURFACE TO FORM A COMPRESSION FIT????

That's the crappiest idea Ive ever heard of , what clown would come up with that idea ?

Is there any way you can tap a thread into the hole ? Even if you have to use a universal and socket bar with a tap held in a socket to reach the hole , you could then screw a brass plug with some Loctite on the threads to cap the hole properly .

If not , you may be able to drive a tight fitting ball bearing into the hole and peen the entrance to lock it in . I have seen this on an English engine to cap an oil gallery .

 

[irwin]

That's the crappiest idea Ive ever heard of , what clown would come up with that idea ?

Is there any way you can tap a thread into the hole ? Even if you have to use a universal and socket bar with a tap held in a socket to reach the hole , you could then screw a brass plug with some Loctite on the threads to cap the hole properly .

If not , you may be able to drive a tight fitting ball bearing into the hole and peen the entrance to lock it in . I have seen this on an English engine to cap an oil gallery .

I was thinking maybe he could find a plug.. like the bilge plug on a boat but smaller.. push it in and expand it, napa sells several different sized similar plugs for stripped oil drain plug holes. They push in and tighten with a wrench, like a molly bolt, but the only way to do this is a permament way.. like tapping and installing a threaded plug like your recommendation IH

He needs to find out the diameter of the hole.

I know I'd try to find a way without removing the engine..

 

[717WALTERS]

Sorry to hear the Kubota rep was so unhelpful.

If I was in your position I'd contact Messicks and ask them for a parts list for your engine... They've been a big help to me over the years with my Kubota L35, my New Holland L555, and my Cub Cadet 1541...

Before you get too discouraged, see if a image of the engine components will help you understand what's happening. Even if you have to buy a parts manual it'll be worth it... Kubota Parts

I just requested a parts diagram for your engine from them.. do the same, lets see if we can't figure out what's happening to your machine.

All the best, Tim

I live 15 miles from messicks. They put the first oil plug in. the shop manager told me they found the old plug in the oil pan. After I put the 100 hrs on the tractor, and lost the oil pressure again, I called the shop and they said It's unlikely the plug fellout again. They thought It was electrical and sent up a mechanic to check it out.

The mechanic removed the oil pressure sensor and used a pressure gauge. we got 14 psi at idle and no higher than 14 psi at full throttle.He also found metal chips on the sensor. the shop still thinks It's electrical. I since dropped the oil pan and found metal chips (like alum. flakes.) that's what made me think "new engine" cost: $5,000 labor,$5,000 new engine.

I to think it is a crappy design. That's why,even thou my warranties ran out, I asked messicks and kubota to help with this expense,since this is so unusual an occurance. Well..... you know the rest of the story. I guess I'm not diplomatic enough to handle this.... and going ballistic usually nets negative results.

I'm not near savvy enough to tear the engine apart, althou I did request a parts list. I understand that there is more than one plug of this type.

 

[Eagleview]

An engine requires 10 psi of oil pressure initial , and 10psi for every 1000 revs thereafter ie. an engine turning @2500rpm's needs 35psi to keep the rod bearings(mainly) , mains , cam bearings etc from running metal to metal . I would be quite sure the metal you have found is Babbit galled from the bearings because they were run with way to little oil pressure . Even if you check your gauges like a truck driver does every 30-60 seconds , the bearings could be toast before you even notice the pressure drop .

It does not sound like you will get any help from the dealer or factory so if the crank is not marked I would replace the bearings myself as you already have the pan off (leave the front and rear mains till last so the crank does not hang on the seals and damage them). Clean out the oil pump and while the bearing caps are off , blow some Kerosene through the sender unit gallery which will help clean out the oil passages in the block . Give the underneath of the block a good clean with a Kero gun and compressed air . Put it back together with fresh oil and filter and wind it over with the fuel cutoff solenoid wire disconnected until the pressure gets high enough to start the engine . I think if the engine is still running you will get away with not changing the cam bearings as the cam only turns once to every two turns of the crank and should be OK .

Drill and tap that hole and plug it .

If you need help with the bearings , post some pictures as you go and we will guide you . There are many here who can .

 

[irwin]

I agree with Iron Horse. You have the oil pan off, from there it's pretty straight forward to replace the rod and main bearings.

Look at this as a page in your mechanical education.. well worth the effort.

If you still have the metal debris, take a picture of it for us. We should be able to tell if it's from the bearings (if the picture is clear enough)

 

[Eagleview]

Any progress yet ?