ASV undercarriage

[bz1]

Sorry DBLR, I just realized that I sort of hijacked this thread. But hopefully you may have picked up a tip or two that pertains to your machine. I'll start a new thread so Bison and I can compare notes on our machines.

 

[tuckinlugz]

I just had another one go out on my rc100. Got just the assemble without the wheels for right under 400 and replaced it myself. My seals are all rubber. I took one of the middle ones out and put a bushing with a grease jerk and pumped it up. The grease started to push out the seal. If there is a way to let grease through the seal from the inside out that would be nice to pump them up every now and then.

When I took out the pug with the new one I bought it was empty. There is a welded on tag that says "grease filled". So I called the dealer and they said that they put some grease on the bearing when they install them but thats it. No oil or grease in the tube. He said to just replace them when they go out. But $400 to $900 each (with or without the wheels) x 7 on each side is crazy expensive.

The Bair products people have aftermarket ones that are greaseable but they aren't selling them yet. They told be the first on June, but now it just says available soon. It just seems like a poor design to begin with.

 

[ASV onr]

I found the information provided in this old topic helpful when I was searching for information about replacing the bearings on my ASV RC100 so I thought I would share a something about removing the seals that someone may find helpful. To remove the seal on the 14" wheel assembly I used a steering wheel puller. It works like a bearing puller but the frame is H shaped with the threaded portion in the center. It has two slots that a 3/8" lag bolt can go through. I drilled two small holes as pilot holes for the lag bolts and screwed the lag bolts into the seal. When I tightened the center screw to push against the shaft it pulled the seal out so I could access the spring clip which I removed using a couple of screwdrivers. This method did leave a thin sleeve portion of the seal around the shaft, but that came out when I pressed the bearing off the shaft.

 

[Jim1964]

I have done these many times on the ASV 30 I have . If your machine is pre 2010 then it will have a one piece wheel assembly. After 2010 they changed this disigners for the better and are two piece assembly , using same concept as a automobile with a separate hub assembly.
The early ones can be rebuilt and the bearings can be purchased at a local beating supply for a fraction of the cost . I took my old bearings to a local bearing dealer ( Applied industrial technology ) and had them cross the bearing over to a all steel sealed bearing with steel dirt seals on the sides. These were a major improvement . On the back side of a wheel there is a retainer ring. Pry it out using heavy screw driver or what it takes to get it out. The old dirt seal may get ruined but only the first time you rebuild a wheel. Don't worry about it. You will need to replace the seal anyway. Unfortunately this seal is the only dealer item you need to buy. Approx $22. The bearings at the bearing supply are only about $5 . Then you will have to drive out the old bearings using a drift punch . You can only drive one bearing out from each side. (There is a centre ridge in the middle of the wheel that is part of the wheel) flip the wheel over and drive the other bearing out the opposite way. ( there is a spacer between the to bearings that must go back in when reassembling the wheel . It is used to prevent the inner part of the bearing from being dislodge when you tighten up the wheel nut. When installing the new bearings find a large socket that just fits inde the wheels hub. Set the new bearing in then using the socket, tap it in with a hammer gently. Then install new dirt seal. (Don't worry about the old retainer that was in the wheel on the back side of the wheel , it doesn't affect it to not be there. Then you can reinstall the wheel. When sliding the assembly back on, be careful to make sure that inner spacer you reuse is centred in the assembly with the bearing so you can slide it on. I sometimes use a deep socket that is the same size as the inner part of the bearing to drive it on with a hammer (gently) these new sealed bearings do last longer that the original stock bearings.