ScottAR
Veteran Member
I guess everything went to plan?
Case 580 Hydraulic Cylinder seal replacement
- Thread starter TommyTee
- Start date
Hi Scott, yes, I just completed the first cylinder and all went fine. I'm now trying to remove the second cylinder which is the "level cylinder"' on the loader. I'm really not sure how this one works (what activates it). I don't really see a control handle for it. Anyway, removing this one is a pain. The pin had a bolt in it to keep it from coming out, The bolt was previously broken off so I've been grinding with a dremel tool and drilling and I'm optimistic but not there yet. Tommy
Sockets - I'm rebuilding multiple hydraulic cylinders on my Case 580 and I am getting ready to purchase some 3/4" drive impact sockets to remove the bolt at the end of the piston. The tilt cylinder which has a 1 1/2" shaft and a 2 1/2" bore has a bolt with a 1 1/8" head. Does anyone know the biggest socket I would need to do the 2" shaft, 4" bore cylinder. I want to be sure the set I purchase will cover everything. Thanks, Tommy
ScottAR
Veteran Member
On the 580D, every cylinder I have resealed to date took a 1 13/16" socket... I cannot confirm any other models.
MikeD74T
Veteran Member
Tommy, I can't draw you a diagram but the auto level piston is mounted between the stationary loader frame & lift arms to "sense" lift arm angle. It is plumbed to both sides of both bucket tilt pistons and functions as a positive displacement pump. Through it's length of travel it receives oil from one side of the tilt pistons & supplies it to the other side causing the bucket to remain at a relatively constant angle to the ground as the lift arm angle changes. Similarly if you disconnect both tilt pistons from the bucket & pulled out on one the other would move in the opposite direction. Clear as mud ??? MikeD74T
I am rebuilding a pair of bucket tilt cylinders on a Case 580C and have trouble understanding how that black plastic bushing fits.
I installed the gland seal and external dust seal without a problem but do not understand how the black ring fits.
Could someone that has done this recently offer some advice?
I installed the gland seal and external dust seal without a problem but do not understand how the black ring fits.
Could someone that has done this recently offer some advice?
Hi, I rebuilt mine on a 580 last month and got a lot of advice from helpful folks here. I've attached a photo showing the correct orientation of the part you are talking about as well as the outer wiper. The seal takes a little force to get it in place but all of a sudden things will start to happen and you'll smile. By the way, I tried heating the seal in boiling water to make it more pliable but that did not help. Start by using your finger(s) to try to get part of the seal in the grove. I then used an 8" piece of a 3/8" dowel to push (with effort) the seal around to snap into the grove. Hope this helps. Tommy
Attachments
Bill, I re-read your post and realized I might have answered the wrong question. I rebuilt 8 cylinders on my 580 last month. So far, all of my cylinders used an internal wiper (see attached photo) like the one on the left. Some of the re-build kits I bought came with both types while others came with one type and some came with the other. I had to buy 3 additional wipers separately. If yours uses the type on the left, it should snap into the grove with the thin edge almost flush with the outer edge of the gland. After I finished, someone told me I could have cut the other type to where is would fit in the grove and it would have worked on the internal seal. I don't know if this will work or not; didn't try it. Tommy
