Case 310 Dozer Transmission Question

[rtimgray]

I've been doing some upgrade work to my Case 310g Dozer and have come upon a question regarding the transmission.

(Background information for anyone that might need to know details: My Case 310g has a straight shift manual transmission 3 forward/1 reverse - 1st and Reverse are in a straight line, so it's like the poor man's version of a shuttle).

Anyway, I had to remove the floorplate to adjust the clutch pedal freeplay and began fiddling with the driveshaft that goes from the output of the engine to the input of the transmission. I noticed that the roll pin in the input shaft was broken, so I got to tinkering around to replaced it.

Long story short, I took off the driveshaft and noticed that I had some movement in the input shaft to the transmission. The shaft will move in and out about 1/8" - it doesn't have free movement around it's circumference (up and down/side to side). I took off the cover plate and seal and I see that it has about 6 thin metal shims on it.

My question is this: Is the movement of the shaft in and out of the transmission (by about 1/8") a concern or is this normal? If it is not normal, what can I do to fix it?

 

[rtimgray]

I'm trying to attach a parts breakdown of the transmission. The shaft is part 18, the shims/seals/cover are 19, 20, and 21.

Thanks.

 

[Bob Rooks]

1/8" endo is too much if there is a front bearing on that main shaft, but I don't see one.

 

[955Lincoln]

It looks like tapered roller bearings on your input shaft. If that's the case 1/8" is too much play.....should be nothing. Not too tight, not to loose, preloaded with the shims.

 

[rtimgray]

So how can I reduce this play? Do I need to remove some shims from in between the bearing race and the cover? The cover has a raised boss on it that the shims fit around, so if I take the shims out, it should push further in. Would this rectifiy the situation, or do I have it backwards (or sideways, or something).?
Thanks for the help.

 

[955Lincoln]

So how can I reduce this play? Do I need to remove some shims from in between the bearing race and the cover? The cover has a raised boss on it that the shims fit around, so if I take the shims out, it should push further in. Would this rectifiy the situation, or do I have it backwards (or sideways, or something).?
Thanks for the help.

Well, I'm just going by a drawing that I can hardly see but if they are in fact tapered roller bearings there is a reason that they became sloppy and most likely will need to be replaced. You should pull the box apart to inspect the parts so you can see what is going on. A service manual will most likely describe how to shim and load the bearings. By pushing the outer bearing race farther into the case will result in tighter bearings.

 

[rdbigfarmboy]

I kept a D310G for about 10 years. Helped patch 2 others and did a lot of work with mine. Replaced the transmission once and re did 1st gear reverse gear and the bands twice.
All the work is done in 1st gear.
so 1 st gear is the weakest point next weakest is the drive shaft to the transmission.
Be aware almost no new parts are available.
Very few used transmission parts are out there. I paid 2250 for a used transmission in 1996.
a useable 1 st gear would be a rarity.

As for the slack LEAVE IT BE. you have some give in the differential bolts and mounting to the frame and the engine bolts and frame mounts plus the one big bolt on each side that the frame rocks on has some slack. The entire engine transmission frame pivots on a big bolt on each side then attached to the undercarrage on the rear.

 

[rtimgray]

Thanks for the advice fellas. I was going to see if I could find a service manual (cheap enough) that might give a little more detail on this.

 

[The Fred]

I have an old 1958 310 with a G148 gas engine and a Gearmatic #9 winch. Yesterday I dropped 3 trees in the creek and when I hooked all the chains up and pulled the "go" lever nothing happened. I completely rebuilt this winch in 2005 if I remember correctly so I thought it couldn't be the winch. Well it wasn't; that input shaft you talk about slid forward 1/2" disengaging the sleeve that directly connects to input shaft to the winch input.

My machine was rebuilt by me in 1997 with exception of the 3 speed trans which looks like a total PITA as the differential pinion must be removed rearward to do any work thus facilitating a complete removal of bull gears and axles, rear diff. YUK!

Any advice from anyone who has had one apart would be appreciated thank-you.

Fred

 

[The Fred]

Appears the circlip holding the mainshaft from sliding is worn out. I have it apart but sure wish I could tear it down and tighten up the countershaft without pulling the differential.

Have to find parts now. The original hourmeter showed 1800 hours and it was broken, I replaced it with a new one and have 550 hours in since the restore. I am sure this thing has some serious hours on it. I read an article about Case hiring one of the top transmission designers from the German Panzer tanks to engineer the later torque converter style Case dozer transmissions, apparently he didn't design this lightweight mess.

I wonder if I could run 75-90 gear oil in the 3 speed part of the transmission since they appear not to mix together. This 90 weight mineral oil is like glue in cold weather.

Fred