Least complicated used loader backhoe

   / Least complicated used loader backhoe #21  
Personal opinion here...
I would look at a Case 580 of Ford NC 555 in a series before everything went to computerized electronic controls...
On those older units upkeep is part of the equation but that is part of the fun...
I am fixing up an old hoe not worth a whole lot but it sure is handy around the farm...
 
   / Least complicated used loader backhoe #22  
Ford. Asked mechanics at two local construction equipment dealers before I bought and it was unanimous.
 
   / Least complicated used loader backhoe #23  
Bingrank....How does your 655d swing???

And does anyone know about the 555's, did they still use the swing chain like the 4500 that came before it??

If I had to say anything bad about fords at all, it would be how the "engineered" the swing. On my 5500, just to connect the cylinders to the swing post, there is a total of about 8 pins, and probably about 25 or 30 bushings. NOT a good design IMO, cause just a little wear in each bushing adds up to a bunch of slop at the end of a 20' or so reach.

I think the case and deere's of the era used a cylinder pinned direct to the swing post, and not a bunch of linkages like mine. And dads 4500 has the chain, which is either really expensive, or really time consuming if you make your own chain...
 
   / Least complicated used loader backhoe #24  
No chains, two cylinders, pretty simple.
 
   / Least complicated used loader backhoe #25  
That must be nice. IIRC, the 655 was somewhere in the middle. The 5500 basically became the 755, and the 4500-555, and the 655 was smaller than the 755 but bigger than the 555.

I'll have to see if I can get (or find) a picture of how complicated my is. And I dont really see the advantage...
 
   / Least complicated used loader backhoe #26  
These arent my pics, but I found them and you can see how complicated the swing is on the 5500. And I believe the 750/755 is identical...

IMG00057.jpgIMG00058.jpgIMG00059.jpg
 
   / Least complicated used loader backhoe #27  
And one thing I really do not care for on the 555 (but I have never actually ran one), is that most of them seem to have about a worthless front bucket. It looks almost like a dozer blade with not much depth/volume to it. It looks like it would be a PITA to transport much dirt at all with that bucket.

But some of them that I have seen do seem to use a bigger more "normal" looking front bucket....
 
   / Least complicated used loader backhoe #28  
These arent my pics, but I found them and you can see how complicated the swing is on the 5500. And I believe the 750/755 is identical...

View attachment 327923View attachment 327924View attachment 327925

Wow, D & E series, and I thick C was not like that, much simpler. One thing mechanics told me was if getting an A series I believe to make sure the torque converter was updated, been awhile, not positive.

I've run the E series and the newer model New Hollands and it seems like the D series was built more like a tank and not so much plastic. I really like my 655D and it had a hard life before I got it.

Had the main hyd pump out a couple times, pump driveshaft, radiator, injection pump did some valve work, seemed really simple. The engine has SAE fasteners and the backhoe, made in Belguim is metric.
 
   / Least complicated used loader backhoe #29  
Should look at a Cat 416B, with the updated "banana" boom. Really simple machine, not a lot of electronics and built HD!!!
Deere, also a good machine to look at, any 90's built machine are the way to go. They seem to be a very strong machine motor wise. (Could push dirt in 4th gear, 2003 410G)
Cases just seem to be a case of problems of what we've seen. There good municipality machines cause they just sit and never do hard work. (I'm talking about the K, L, M series)

My father has owned all the series of Cats since they came out B-E series. And the B's seem to be the most reliable, (I own one) and he also has had a few Deeres over the years and all good machines. A friend of his used to own case's but once was broke down on a job and borrowed a cat 420D and loved it so much sold all his Cases and bought all Cats.
 
   / Least complicated used loader backhoe #30  
I have some personal experience in this, having been in a very similar position. The caveat in my case is that I knew I was going to have to move the machine from 1 location to another and basically once you pass the magic 25 999lb combined weight one needs a CDL (especially if moving across state lines).

So I was looking for a machine that I could move and be no more than 12k including trailer. I ended up looking at the Bobcat labeled machines that were made by Earthforze in the Czech republic. The factory got closed after the acquisition by IR and so commercial operators dumped them as fast as possible because the Bobcat support is lousy. Of course that was years ago, and the machines have been well picked over by now.

The one I got is a Bobcat B200. It has a 30hp 3 cylinder Kubota turbo diesel, a hydrostatic transmission with 4 equal sized tires and permanent 4wd. For me the equal sized tires was important along with 4wd, otherwise the 2wd or small front wheels can be limiting very fast when trying to move 3/4 yard of dirt or gravel in the bucket and 2 undriven little wheels up front.

I will say this: Plan to do absolutely every bit of maintenance on this type of machine yourself. If I did not, I would be many thousands of $ in the hole.

I have replaced many hydraulic hoses. Chasing down where to get the right crimp fittings and the right hose can be a chore but once you have it figured out, keep a bunch of fittings and hose in stock, then getting a replacement hose is as simple as driving down to the local hydraulic store with hose and fittings and coming back a few hours later. I keep a laminated card for the crimp dimensions for all the hose sizes, and you need it else the hydraulic shop will not guarantee their work. The electrical system on my machine is relatively simple, but it has given me fits anyway since there is an e-stop system, an electronic lift pump for the fuel, the usual fuel shutoff valve, glow plug circuit, neutral interlock for starting and some lights. I have replaced the alternator already 1 time (it was dead) and still have intermittent issues with the charge light coming on. Sometimes it won't start or it will start then die.

My machine was a 2003 model which I bought in 2009 during the financial crisis for $12k with 1300 hours on the meter. I assume it had been a rental machine, since the loader bucket had all its paint on, but the hoe was about shot and all the pins on it were loose and anything the bucket teeth could reach when digging was mangled. Last year I replaced all of the hoses on the hoe, and this year I am starting to replace all the pins. I did an oil change before the last winter that was a bad idea, since it turned out the oil was clean and on top of that I refilled it with the wrong viscosity of oil. W20 instead of W45 (I used general purpose hydrostatic transmission oil and in fact this model uses engine oil). Since the oil viscosity was too low, the pump could not make system pressure and it was as if the machine decided to start on a "go slow" strike.

Despite the generally "tough" appearance of these construction machines, they can be damaged much more easily than one may think. Last year while pushing over brush, I made the mistake of driving over a hardwood sapling with a stem about 3/4" in diameter. It just so happened that the stem found the perfect angle to get into the radiator fan and deflect it (it was a plastic fan) so that the blades of the fan cut through the 1st row of radiator core tubes... I had to dismantle most of the front end of the machine to get the radiator out (bad design by the guys in the Czech republic) including removing both front wheels to get to fasteners and I had to do this out in the field right at the edge of a swamp. Then find a shop to re-core the radiator, then go back and put it all back together again. Such a simple thing and $500 out of my pocket (would probably have been a $1500-$2000 repair if I had taken it to Bobcat).

Similarly, on the same farm (not mine) the owner went to tear out a few fruit trees and got it well dug into some soft ground. in so doing, he managed to pull the electrical harness off the lift pump by virtue of some tree roots that were sticking out the ground, upon which the machine quit and again we had to repair it in situ (we had no suitable machine to recover it from the situation it was in while not running (there was water over 12" deep in the hole).

So basically, consider how you will move it if you need to. Do you have a friend who has a CDL and a trailer, or will you be hiring that out every time ? Will you be capable of repairing everything and figuring out "who's stuff" your machine has in it in the way of hoses, fittings, valves etc ? Are you ready to fix the machine in any situation you manage to get it into ? Best to think about that before you get yourself in any situations...

Look carefully at the tires. A set of tires on my machine will cost close to or more than an engine replacement. They will probably also go at nearly the same time. I rejected some slightly bigger machines with better features because they needed new tires immediately and that could easily have run me $3000+.
 
 
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