Farmagain
Member
I assumed the ignition switch was bad because all the idiot lights--temperature, air filter, tranny, etc. came on at the same time, while the engine was still cool, and I could wiggle the key and get them to go off. After installing the new switch I am getting a different problem. When I start the engine the lights go out as they should but then come back on in 15-20 seconds. I have cleaned the connections on the new switch, all the connections on the alternator and the connector on the voltage regulator. By putting a digital meter on the battery it seems that the voltage regulator is kicking in and holding the voltage at 14.7 until it is charged. The battery holds 12.6 or so when not running, a new, good battery. I may have wired the switch wrong. The switch I installed is a 4 position: Off, heat, accessory, start. Start is spring loaded and springs back to the accessory position. I was not sure how the glow plug system worked. I was afraid that it did not need power to it all the time. This particular switch has power to lug 2 only in the heat position, but also has power to lug 4 and 2 in the accessory position. So putting the glow plug wire on Terminal 2 would keep the circuit energized all the time it was running. So until I am clear on that I did not connect the brown/red wire. Interestingly, I have the repair manual and it shows the wiring harness going to the ignition switch and labels all the circuits EXECPT wire 12 which simply says "Brown/Red Wire, with nothing indicating where it goes. By default I assume it is the glow plug system wire since it is the only circuit not named in the drawing. I don't know where to go from here. Any help would greatly be appreciated.