boom bucket bushing??

[chopped]

Hi there, I have an antique Tachuchi mini ex.(8000 lb ish)
There is excessive 'wobble' to the bucket . Not enough probably to worry about but Id love to get it tighter. I have removed the bucket and traced the play down to the boom stationary opening. My question is is there a bushing of some sort on the stick itself that could be replaced? And I would have to consider the work involved if Id need to remove one if there is. But Id really like to tighten this up.
Thanks anyone..

 

[RedNeckGeek]

Just went through this on the FEL. I was able to down load a parts drawing for it and determine that there was a bushing at the bucket end, but not at the mount end where all the play had developed. Perhaps there is a parts diagram for your Tachuchi somewhere on line that would give you some insights?

If there is a bushing, they can be removed by depositing a string or three of weld metal along the length of the ID, then waiting for them to cool and shrink the bushing. Heating up the arm and cooling the new bushing may let you slip it in by hand, or you may need to rig up a piece of all-thread, some washers, and some nuts to act as a jack screw. Or you may end up disassembling the parts so you can get them into a shop where a hydraulic press can be brought into play. There are line boring companies out there that can come on site and bore a wallowed out hole to a size suitable for a bushing if none was installed by the manufacturer.

Here are some links I found useful:

Spring bushings:
Request Rejected

Repair threads:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...g/224883-replacing-bushings-la724-loader.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/276164-pin-bushing-clearance-2.html

Good luck!

 

[chopped]

WOW thanks so much for the info .I read the links. I would say Im like you. If it were not to expensive and hard a job then it give it a shot. But dont think its worth it at this point. The wobble isnt to bad just darn annoying to me. And I polan to use the 28 wide bucket. I can imagine the wobble on that one.
Thanks again..

 

[RedNeckGeek]

I think the lesson I learned was to keep those pivots well greased. The sticker on the FEL says to do it every 10 hours, and I don't think that's a conservative number at all!

 

[chopped]

Im broken down now to the ''possible bushings" I assume they are give the looks of it. In one picture you can see a split. At first I thought it was one of the split bushing I was in the previous posters site.
But For there to be a split it must be a bushing. Now Ill call parts and see if there is one listed. This machine is very old. 1980 ish.

 

[RedNeckGeek]

While the photos look OK in the thumbnails, any sign of a bushing is blurred in the full size versions. Perhaps if your camera has a macro setting they'd come out better?

But I agree, the best place to start is with the parts people to see if a bushing is specified. Even if not, any decent machine shop should be able to fit one if also given a new, matching, pin and the desired tolerances. :2cents:

 

[KWentling]

View attachment 426954View attachment 426955View attachment 426956

Im brokenView attachment 426954View attachment 426955View attachment 426956 down now to the ''possible bushings" I assume they are give the looks of it. In one picture you can see a split. At first I thought it was one of the split bushing I was in the previous posters site.
But For there to be a split it must be a bushing. Now Ill call parts and see if there is one listed. This machine is very old. 1980 ish.

It's time to change them out before the bores themselves wear from the movement of the cracked bushings. On bigger hoes there would be a seal in end of the bore also. I've never worked on one that small. Hollow bore hydraulic rams are wonderful for pulling in bushings like those. I've also frozen them in liquid nitrogen and usually they slide right in. You likely don;t have access to either of those though. Dry ice for the bushings and a weed burner to heat the bore works too. I would try just a hammer and punch and see if they will drive out. If not, try welding like was mentioned. You will get more shrink if you weld around the inside of the bushing then lengthwise, but either will probably work.

Kim

 

[chopped]

Thanks for that info. Yes Im going on the poor mans tools lol .Ive watched a few videos , and one method is to use the socket as a base and a threaded bolt through the bushing and into a washer on the other end. Tighten the nut. and hit the socket hard with a sledge. and hope for the best.
One guy had put the bushing in the freezer overnight. I assume this didnt hurt but not sure it would be the greatest advantage.
As far as removal. I assume they are of hard metal?
I was considering using a hacksaw in it to give some relief?It does seem relatively thin at this point when i slide a pin in there.
I can do the weld idea. maybe a combo of both..
Im sure with allot of work I can get it out . I've seen on line where people don't use any lube on the install, this has me wondering also.As I'd sure think I'd use allot of it.
All this info is greatly appreciated..

 

[KWentling]

I would hope that they would be too hard to hacksaw. If you have a welder, find a heavy washer that will fit inside the bushing at weld it in. It will shrink the bushing and give you something to hit with a punch. You do not want to lube the bushing going back in. It needs to be dry or at most WD40 or similar. Putting the bushing in the freezer can help too. Dry ice is colder, and adding acetone to it makes it colder yet.
At his point you don't know how tight they are. They may drive right out and the new ones back in without much of a fight.

Kim

 

[chopped]

Thought Id do a quick update on this.
I looked around for a shop who could remove or cut the bushing out and install the new one. The bushing was 4 1/2 inches in legnth and about 1 1/2 inch Diameter.
Finally after having no luck I got my tanks filled and set out to remove it. I took a piece of pike that had the same measurement and then a smaller pipe piece inside to guide it.
I used the torch to cut legnthwise slits in the inside of the bushing.Being careful to not blow through it.
Then used the pipe and blasted it with a huge sledge hammer.
It came out pretty easy.
Then I took the new bushing that I had in the freezer overnight and reversed the procedure.(without the torch)
It drove in pretty good.Half way through i switched to a flat plat on the busing and the hammer.
Looking back now. the removal wasnt bad at all. I dint have to weld inside like some had suggested.
However knowing now, I think I would find a way to use a jack to psh in the new one. I feel like the freezer helped it. But thats just a feeling.
So its not a job Id look forward to but wouldnt not try it agin if needed.
Id think another job with a smaler legnth busing would have gone pretty easy.