Evaluating Undercarriage and Overall Condition for Purchase (Hitachi Excavator)

[Rustyiron]

Matt if the machine tracks off a little, I wouldn't worry about it, but I would check the oil levels in both sides.(hex/square head plug in the outboard face of the drives. Usually you rotate the track so that the plug is level with the horizontal center of the whole final drive "face" for the right oil level. (90 wt gear oil typically).
If your piping get's too expensive or complicated, Amulet makes a slick unit that operates their grapple with a linkage from the bucket. It closes the grapple as you curl the bucket in. I bought one of these instead of adding the piping, but it was about $3k 15 years ago. It may be cheaper to just add the factory aux valve & piping. I would only use a diverter valve off another function as a very last resort. HoeClamp - Amulet Manufacturing Company, INC.

 

[mike69440]

Piston;Thanks again guys, with your help and reassurance you convinced me that I just need to buy this thing

It's not too far from my parents house, so I'm going to have it shipped there first, then do a little maintenance and get used to it at my dad's place (you know, tear up his land instead of mine) and then in the spring I'll have it trucked up to my place in NH to start the heavier work.

Get it running right at your parents or at a shop.

I'm gonna look more into what's involved with the thumb, and adding hydraulics. I don't know how much different this project would be than adding a hydraulic thumb to the 410, but that is what I originally built this thumb for, but never ended up installing it on the 410 since I never trucked that up to NH.

Anyway that you could add side plates to extend the thumb to the right length for the excavator bucket

This is the thumb I made. It would be a little short, but it's made out of 1" steel and 3/4" steel.
View attachment 495451

View attachment 495452

Also, I already have a selector valve that I purchased for the 410 project, I think it's 15 gpm, not sure if I'd be able to use it with the excavator but I'll take a look.
Yes it should work, make sure you get a good 4 way cushion valve, and remember to curl the thumb to the bucket into squash the bucket int the thumb, at least not with full pressure.


Is there an adjustment for the track motor speed that could just need fine tuning?
Pressure in the drive valve can be adjusted. Check seals on valve.

He told me that I need to put some grease in the track adjuster on the loose track to tighten it up. Is there a rule of thumb as to how 'tight' you want to make it? He mentioned putting a 2x4 along the track and measuring the distance of sag, but I don't recall how much sag it should have.
I run mine tight, don't do this at home. You should be able to stand on track and bounce.

Thanks again for your input. The thumb will be a fun project, I posted my 'build' of it here if anyways is interested....
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/245990-thinking-about-adding-hydraulic-thumb.htm

 

[jenkinsph]

I've seen worse looking machines for more $. If it does what you need right out the gate, $10K is a good price in my opinion. As with anything, there could be a multitude of things that are failing or about to fail. The undercarriage is not horrible by any means, but it might need the track adjusters rebuilt to keep the track tight. One of the travel motors could be failing since it won't drive in a straight line, those can be very expensive to fix. The biggest fear I have of older equipment is the lack of parts.

I agree with this post^^^.
Depending on condition this may be a $20,000 machine. Track and undercarriage repairs if needed can be costly. Waiting to see what his selling price is. Overall it appears to be in good shape and has been well cared for considering it is over 30 years old.

 

[PJ The Kid]

Looks like the sprockets could use a little love, along with the track chains. There also doesn't appear to be much adjustment left as far as track tension but I could be wrong. For the right price it would otherwise be well worth it knowing it will need some track and sprocket work down the road. Also look really close at the pins and bushes, make sure they aren't in need of line bore if they have worn past the bushes. That can get a little pricey to repair

 

[Piston]

I have a question for all you experienced "track" guys. The tracks were a little loose, so I added some grease to tighten them up a bit. I was a little concerned of overtightening them so I want to get some opinions.

One track is a little tighter than the other, does one look a little loose still, or does the other look a little too tight?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I'm not sure on your machine, but on my Case dozer the tracks are suppose to sag 1" between rollers. So you have to have tension on the bottom from moving forward to get that measurement properly.

Again I have no idea what your machine specifies.

 

[mike69440]

I have a question for all you experienced "track" guys. The tracks were a little loose, so I added some grease to tighten them up a bit. I was a little concerned of overtightening them so I want to get some opinions.

One track is a little tighter than the other, does one look a little loose still, or does the other look a little too tight?

View attachment 508289

View attachment 508290

Piston,

Did you buy the old girl? The tight track is ok, looks a bit tight not bad, Loose one is loose.

 

[Big Barn]

I agree with this post^^^.
Depending on condition this may be a $20,000 machine. Track and undercarriage repairs if needed can be costly. Waiting to see what his selling price is. Overall it appears to be in good shape and has been well cared for considering it is over 30 years old.

You can't buy much for ten grand, but I agree that this easily COULD become a $20K (or more) purchase item. Worst case scenario you should easily get your $10K back parting it out.

Personally, I'd look for something a little newer. I just sold my JD recently.



Good luck with your purchase (unless you've already passed on it).

Terry

 

[Piston]

Thanks guys,
I did buy it. I just went through and changed the oil on the engine and added some hydraulic fluid. I'm going to change the hydraulic fluid filters as well. I greased it up and it seems already well greased but figured I'd push some of the old stuff out for good measure.
There is a little play in the bucket pins but not bad (especially for what I'm using it for).

One of the final drives does weep a bit of oil. I'm not sure what that means, whether it's just a seal or not, but I'll look into it some more.

I haven't used it a whole lot yet as it's sitting in my parents back yard.

I don't see many other leaks really, seems like it's in good shape other than the small final drive weeping. It was sitting for a few months, and I went to start it up, and it didn't crank more than a full second before firing right to life. I'm amazed how good the engine seems to run.

 

[Piston]

Got the engine oil analysis back from Blackstone Labs....


I know the engine seems like about the smallest of issues that bigger excavators have, and the major problems are in the hydraulics and undercarriage, but still makes me feel pretty good about the condition of the engine. I wonder if they would be able to tell much from an analysis of the hydraulic fluid?