Ford 555b wet brake replacement and repair transmission oil leak

[Chewwy]

I need to replace the wet brakes on my 555b backhoe. I"ve been planning to do this when the weather turned cooler. I continued to use the backhoe over the summer without brakes to complete several jobs on some flat pieces of my property. During this use, I noticed a pretty good transmission fluid leak from the fromt of the transmission (4x4 power reversing transmission). Likely it's a transmission oil seal or gasket.

To replace the brakes, the service manual calls for removing the backhoe, then split the unit and remove the rear axle to access the axle "trumpets." Replacing the transmission front oil seal require removing the transmission. To remove the transmission, the service manual calls to first remove the engine, then remove the transmission. Since axle removal to replace the brakes leaves the transmission just sitting there attached to the engine, I'm going to attempt the transmission removal from the rear.

Does anyone have any thoughts on whether this will work or not. Seems simpler than removing the engine to acess the transmission front oil seal.

 

[RickB]

I'd not follow the book to do the brakes. I've seen it done this way and it saves a ton of time: remove the hood. Lower the stabilizers and remove the rear wheels. Crib or block the backhoe frame in front of the swing post. Support the rear axle center section with a jack and jack stands under the trumpets. Remove the hardware and brackets attaching the trumpets to the frame. Lower the drive train until the trumpet housings can be removed from the center section and clear the frame. No removing the hoe, no rear split. The hood comes off to keep its rear edge from destroying the windshield when the drive train is lowered out of the frame. To access the transmission I would prop up the loader and remove the front end and engine in one lump.

 

[Chewwy]

I'd not follow the book to do the brakes. I've seen it done this way and it saves a ton of time: remove the hood. Lower the stabilizers and remove the rear wheels. Crib or block the backhoe frame in front of the swing post. Support the rear axle center section with a jack and jack stands under the trumpets. Remove the hardware and brackets attaching the trumpets to the frame. Lower the drive train until the trumpet housings can be removed from the center section and clear the frame. No removing the hoe, no rear split. The hood comes off to keep its rear edge from destroying the windshield when the drive train is lowered out of the frame. To access the transmission I would prop up the loader and remove the front end and engine in one lump.

Took another look underneath today. Removing each trumpet also requires removing the associated connecting link from the frame and the backhoe at the lower bolts.

Correct?

Otherwise it looks like the trumpet remains sandwiched between the frame and the link?

 

[RickB]

Yes. 6th sentence in my response.

 

[Chewwy]

Question for RickB,

In a previous response regarding wet brake replacement, you indicated that "to access the transmission I would prop up the loader and remove the front end and engine in one lump."

Again blindly following the service manual calls for removing the loader to pull the engine.
Your way sounds simpler but not sure what you mean by "prop up the loader."

 

[RickB]

Raise the loader. Install the factory loader prop locks or suitable angle or channel irons along the lift cylinder rods. Remove the hood and fuel tank. Tank can be lifted straight out the front with a decent sized cherry picker/ rolling hoist. Support the frame rails near the front and transmission front. Hoe bucket is best resting on the ground. Split the engine from the transmission. Install a couple heavy angle irons where the front frame bolts attached to the sides of the bolster. Run them down to the floor as a secure way to support the front of the frame, the loader and cab. Support the front of the transmission housing as well.

 

[Chewwy]

Raise the loader. Install the factory loader prop locks or suitable angle or channel irons along the lift cylinder rods. Remove the hood and fuel tank. Tank can be lifted straight out the front with a decent sized cherry picker/ rolling hoist. Support the frame rails near the front and transmission front. Hoe bucket is best resting on the ground. Split the engine from the transmission. Install a couple heavy angle irons where the front frame bolts attached to the sides of the bolster. Run them down to the floor as a secure way to support the front of the frame, the loader and cab. Support the front of the transmission housing as well.

Thanks. Will need to digest this a little.

 

[Chewwy]

RickB,

If I'm following this correctly, when splitting the engine from the transmission, the transmission is still attached to the rear axle.

What is your estimate of the weight on the lifting device supporting the engine and front end?
My guess is less than 4,000 lbs. since it's still partially supported on the front wheels.

I'm struggling with whether I'll need gantry crane or can use heavy duty engine hoist. I have access to gantry crane but would need to transport the machine to friends shop. Would prefer to use heavy duty engine hoist and do this in home shop.

 

[RickB]

Done for many years in my former place of employment with a somewhat heavy duty engine hoist. One with enough lift and reach to pick the fuel tank out from directly in front of the machine. Yes, the transmission stays attached to the rear axle center section. Weight of the engine on the hoist is probably less than 1000 lbs due to the weight of the bolster and radiator cowl extending in front of the axle center line. Less if you have a chin weight or weights bolted to the sides of the grille shell.

 

[Chewwy]

Done for many years in my former place of employment with a somewhat heavy duty engine hoist. One with enough lift and reach to pick the fuel tank out from directly in front of the machine. Yes, the transmission stays attached to the rear axle center section. Weight of the engine on the hoist is probably less than 1000 lbs due to the weight of the bolster and radiator cowl extending in front of the axle center line. Less if you have a chin weight or weights bolted to the sides of the grille shell.

I seem to be in luck today. All 4 side weights and the chin weight are there. Based on rough calc, they would reduce the load on the hoist by a couple of hundred pounds. I can pick the gas tank from the side with my small loader. My hoist's arm is plenty long enough to get to the engine from directly in front.

I had never looked at the prices on the weights until today when looking at thier weights. Almost $1,900 for pig iron or lead. Not sure which