Septic system leaching bed failure

[Botabill]

Perhaps my question is being put in the wrong place but I figure some of the equipment folks on here work on septic systems so... My leaching bed is backing up (failing to drain) Is there a preferred way to identify the problem? I have a small excavator and can dig the drain tiles up anywhere easily but I'd like to minimize the intitial test holes til I'm ready to fix whatever needs fixing(Don't want to dig up the whole be if the problem is in one area.) The other question is do any of the chemicals (fast fix solutions) actually fix a clogged up leaching bed.

 

[Dirthog]

there is most likely no way to repair it the ground becomes saurated with grease and soap and the only way to repair it is to replace the whole thing and it will most likely have to be moved unless it is a sand mound then you just remove the sand and stone and replace same just make sure it is the leach field and not the pipe broken coming out of the tank that happens a lot

 

[Syncro]

Well I hate to tell ya this, but as the other poster said there ain't no easy fix. What often happens is the septic tank gets over full with solids which then enter the leach field and clog the gravel/soil. Regular septic tank pumping evry few years is the best preventitive. Once clogged though, the leach field will need to be replaced. Pump the tank first, or else when you break the outlet pipe you'll have a raw sewage geyser, thats not pleasant. The new leach field can be close to the old one, best to ask a local engineer how/what/where to place it and how deep your soil conditions will allow the grave bed.

Its really not too bad and just amounts to some digging, drain rock (1 1/2" gravel) and some perforated 4" drain pipe (cheap) but you really should get directions from someone knowledgable and local. If no one knowledgabe is availabe, and your water table is low, say below 10', then you could just bootleg the new leach lines by digging a trench with 3'-4' below the pipe filled with gravel, be sure the new pipe has about 1/4 bubble fall, and then cover the new pipe with paper before backfilling. 80' of this should work just fine, of course its best to do it proper and get the permits and engineered design, this is just rule of thumb.

 

[Egon]

Maybe check out your local regulations for septic systems before you start anything. Some places are pretty picky about them.

 

[Botabill]

Thanks gents for good advice. What does "bootleg the new leach lines" mean Syncro. Does that mean leaving the old lines in place and simply running some new leach lines in between them from the header?

 

[Botabill]

Would it also be an option to simply remove the old leach lines and gravel then replacing with new if a new sight is not available?

 

[Dirthog]

The trouble with just removing just the pipes and gravel is that the soil around the leach field will still be full of sewage and in most cases will not let the water drain from the system in a very short time you will have the same problem again. One of the biggest problems most people make with a septic tank is what they put in it all the household cleaners on the market now days are full of chemicals which kill the bactaria in the system so keep all that out you can also a package of active yeast every couple of months will help its the same thing as RID-EX or the other other tank treatments with out all the fillers. Like the other poster said check on the local regulations the fines are rough myself as a contractor the can fine up to $5000 a day if you install or repair a system with out the proper permits the only thing you can do is fix a broken pipe with out to much trouble. I have heard that they can condemn the home untill its repaired to there likeing but not sure about that I do know that in Pa. the DEP is like Gestapo.

 

[dirtpusher]

Have you probed the lines to make sure they have water at the ends? Are there any trees close the lines? Is the pipe from the tank to the drain field cast iron? These are some of the things we run into.
If the lines are not full of water, start out closer to the end of the line and dig down and see if there is any water. If there is no water move on towards the tank 10 feet or so and dig down again. Then replace pipe if it is stopped up. If there are any trees nearby that is probably the problem. Around here people used to use cast iron pipe. That stuff corrodes shut from the slow flow of water and has to be replaced.

 

[PBinWA]

When I bought my house I dug up the distribution box to my leech field and found that it wasn't level. It was sending almost all the sewage to a single leech line. It was also old and crumbling apart from too many blackberry roots attacking it.

I replaced the distribution box and used the fancy new leveller thingies and I'm pretty sure the system is working much better. I notice a much more even greening pattern on the field in the summer time.

I think the first place to check would be the distribution box. It was not too much work to dig up and replace but yes . . . it was a sh***y job.

 

[Stimw]

I bought my place with a septic system that was 23 years old. I found the tank lid and opened it and found (with a piece of 1/2" conduit) it was 90% full of solids and loaded with cigerete butts. The house had been empty for 2 years. I dumped a box of Ridex in and went on to fixing other stuff. System kept working so a year later I opened the tank again prepared for the worst and no solids!!
It later started working slow and I found the tank outlet lid and this time I dumped root killer into the 3 pipes. It started working again.
I also read somewhere on the net about putting Hydrogen-Peroxide in the drain field to expedite the bacteria action. I do this every so often. They have Peroxide at the dollar store for $1.00 a quart.
If you have any trees near it they will find the drain field and stop it up. If you try root killer (Copper Sulphate) it says do not use on septic systems but if you can get to the outlet it shouldn't kill the bacteria in the tank.