hilld
Gold Member
Make sure the voltage regulator is plugged in, if that is what I am seeing mounted on the right inner fender.
Derek
Derek
New engine for my F-600 Dump Truck
- Thread starter EddieWalker
- Start date
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Renze
Elite Member
Many older systems had an external regulator. My Zetor has one under the steering wheel, it measures the battery voltage, and when it is too low, it will engage a magnet switch in the line connecting the alternator to the battery.
When the battery is drained, you cant just jump start it and expect it to recharge, as it needs electrics to engage the electrical switch.
I had a cheapo universal alternator on it for 2 years, a 50 euro thing. It didnt last long, and the warning light on the instrument panel was allways on, even though it did recharge for a year or so.
Recently i bought a brand new original heavy duty Magnetron alternator, imported from a Slovakian parts trader. This one should do the job for the other 15 years.
When the battery is drained, you cant just jump start it and expect it to recharge, as it needs electrics to engage the electrical switch.
I had a cheapo universal alternator on it for 2 years, a 50 euro thing. It didnt last long, and the warning light on the instrument panel was allways on, even though it did recharge for a year or so.
Recently i bought a brand new original heavy duty Magnetron alternator, imported from a Slovakian parts trader. This one should do the job for the other 15 years.
OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
You guys got it right. Since I hadn't touched the voltage regulator, it was last on my list of things go look at. I had the wires marked for the alternator when I put it back on, but it didn't work, so my Dad changed them to a few other places without any results.
We may have ruined it by moving wires around, or it might have been bad already. I just put a new battery in it, but the problem might have been the regulator all along.
The first picture is of the plug that goes into the voltage regulator. The wires for the alternotor are the two on the right. As you can see, one just fell off and the other is pretty frayed.
I changed the ends and tried it on the old regulator again, but it didn't work.
The second picture shows the new regulator installed and working perfectly. All is good!!!
Eddie
We may have ruined it by moving wires around, or it might have been bad already. I just put a new battery in it, but the problem might have been the regulator all along.
The first picture is of the plug that goes into the voltage regulator. The wires for the alternotor are the two on the right. As you can see, one just fell off and the other is pretty frayed.
I changed the ends and tried it on the old regulator again, but it didn't work.
The second picture shows the new regulator installed and working perfectly. All is good!!!
Eddie
Attachments
OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Here she is all done and ready for work!!!
I thought about cleaning and painting the air cleaner, but I really couldn't justify why I should do it, other than kill some time. In a week, the rest of the engine will look like the air cleaner anyway. hahaha
There is one more problem to address. On the firewall you'll see the brake fluid resivoir. It's not the master cylinder, that's under the drivers seat. It's this oversized, vacume asssisted monstrosity that is unlike anything I've ever seen before. When I hit the brakes, the engine dies. At first I thought it was a massive vacume leak from the master cylinder. After pulling it apart, my Dad figured that a couple of seals were bad and we're probably letting hydraulic oil into the engine. I don't know how bad this is, but it's not good.
It's not worth a new thread, since I should have it fixed after the holiday with a few dollers worth of rubber seals. Kind of like wide, flat o-rings.
The other picture is of my dumptruck with the hood on.
Thanks to everyone for your help and suggestions,
Eddie
I thought about cleaning and painting the air cleaner, but I really couldn't justify why I should do it, other than kill some time. In a week, the rest of the engine will look like the air cleaner anyway. hahaha
There is one more problem to address. On the firewall you'll see the brake fluid resivoir. It's not the master cylinder, that's under the drivers seat. It's this oversized, vacume asssisted monstrosity that is unlike anything I've ever seen before. When I hit the brakes, the engine dies. At first I thought it was a massive vacume leak from the master cylinder. After pulling it apart, my Dad figured that a couple of seals were bad and we're probably letting hydraulic oil into the engine. I don't know how bad this is, but it's not good.
It's not worth a new thread, since I should have it fixed after the holiday with a few dollers worth of rubber seals. Kind of like wide, flat o-rings.
The other picture is of my dumptruck with the hood on.
Thanks to everyone for your help and suggestions,
Eddie
hilld
Gold Member
EddieWalker said:
How about a picture of the problem, so we can be armchair quarterbacks.
Derek
Renze
Elite Member
Eddie, if you've got brake oil in the engine oil, change the oil immediately...
My brother used to have classic Diesel mercedes, when he bought another one that has been sitting in a farmers barn for some years with a ceised up engine, he bought it, took out the injectors and poured brake oil on top of the piston. 2 weeks later he came back with his friend, pull started it with another merc untill the pistons were freed up and put the injectors back. the cylinder started firing one by one, and big clouds of smoke came out of its tail. after a few kilometers the engine ran like new.
However they didnt change the oil, but the brake oil had seeped along the piston rings into the sump. after a month or 2, the engine ceised due to a bearing failure.
Brake oil does not only free sticky piston rings and break down carbon buildup, but it also kills all lubricative capacity of the oil, causing this engine failure.
good luck with it,
Renze
My brother used to have classic Diesel mercedes, when he bought another one that has been sitting in a farmers barn for some years with a ceised up engine, he bought it, took out the injectors and poured brake oil on top of the piston. 2 weeks later he came back with his friend, pull started it with another merc untill the pistons were freed up and put the injectors back. the cylinder started firing one by one, and big clouds of smoke came out of its tail. after a few kilometers the engine ran like new.
However they didnt change the oil, but the brake oil had seeped along the piston rings into the sump. after a month or 2, the engine ceised due to a bearing failure.
Brake oil does not only free sticky piston rings and break down carbon buildup, but it also kills all lubricative capacity of the oil, causing this engine failure.
good luck with it,
Renze
OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
This little problem with the brakes is turning into a $300 bigger problem.
There was a cover missing off of the control valve assembly, but that really doesn't seem to do anything. Kind of a dust cover. There is also a piston that goes into the master cylinder from teh control valve that leaked brake oil. I replaced the o-rings, solved the leak, but did nothing to stop the problem.
The manual says the engine dying is because of a vacume leak in the lines or inside the vacuum brake booster. That's what this thing is called.
I took it off and opened up the shell to see what the diaphram looked like. YIKES. It's tore with a massive hole. OK, that explains why the engine dies when the brakes are applied.
Inside the shell there was allot of brake oil. It should be dry.
I took it to Tyler to get a new one, but Napa doesn't carry them. After looking around, there was only one store in town that can get one. $290 plus shipping.
This seems a bit excessive, but than again, I might not have any choice. I've been looking online, but haven't found anybody that sells them.
It's made by Bendix, and is called a Vacuum Brake Booster, Single Diaphragm, Frame Mounted for a F-600 gas truck.
The first picture is of the entire unit.
Second picture is of the vent opening that came off.
Third pic shows the piston that was leaking, but isn't anymore.
Fourth pic is of the rip in the Diaphragm,
Fifth pic shows a little of the oil inside the shell.
Thanks,
Eddie
There was a cover missing off of the control valve assembly, but that really doesn't seem to do anything. Kind of a dust cover. There is also a piston that goes into the master cylinder from teh control valve that leaked brake oil. I replaced the o-rings, solved the leak, but did nothing to stop the problem.
The manual says the engine dying is because of a vacume leak in the lines or inside the vacuum brake booster. That's what this thing is called.
I took it off and opened up the shell to see what the diaphram looked like. YIKES. It's tore with a massive hole. OK, that explains why the engine dies when the brakes are applied.
Inside the shell there was allot of brake oil. It should be dry.
I took it to Tyler to get a new one, but Napa doesn't carry them. After looking around, there was only one store in town that can get one. $290 plus shipping.
This seems a bit excessive, but than again, I might not have any choice. I've been looking online, but haven't found anybody that sells them.
It's made by Bendix, and is called a Vacuum Brake Booster, Single Diaphragm, Frame Mounted for a F-600 gas truck.
The first picture is of the entire unit.
Second picture is of the vent opening that came off.
Third pic shows the piston that was leaking, but isn't anymore.
Fourth pic is of the rip in the Diaphragm,
Fifth pic shows a little of the oil inside the shell.
Thanks,
Eddie
Attachments
AlanB
Elite Member
LINCOLN CLUTCH AND BRAKE
Eddie, you might speak with these guys, when I was reworking a 48 International dump truck they were extremely helpful. I never went through with it, so they did not get any of my money, but when I spoke with them, they knew the ins and outs of what could and could not be bought new / used etc. etc. and had several options available for me.
Might be worth a phone call.
Eddie, you might speak with these guys, when I was reworking a 48 International dump truck they were extremely helpful. I never went through with it, so they did not get any of my money, but when I spoke with them, they knew the ins and outs of what could and could not be bought new / used etc. etc. and had several options available for me.
Might be worth a phone call.
Nat
Platinum Member
Eddie, I'll bet there is a junk yard around that will have one. Around here you can buy a used one for about 100.00
They will garrantee that it works, but not for how long, I've bought used ones before, and had to take one back off cause it wouldn't work. It's a pain to replace and if you need the truck for a living you can't take that chance, but to move dirt around your place it may not be a bad idea. One other thing, make sure you buy brake booster hose, not radidator hose. It looks the same, but unless it is vacuum hose it will suck shut after it gets hot under the hood. I had an old C-60 chevy that just wouldn't stop, and the pedal was hard as if it had a block under it. I took the booster off, bleed the brakes, adjusted them, and nothing helped. When you first started it it had good brakes, but after a few minutes the pedal would get hard again. I finnally found out that someone had replaced the hose and it would get warm and suck shut then no more brakes. HTH a little, Later, Nat
They will garrantee that it works, but not for how long, I've bought used ones before, and had to take one back off cause it wouldn't work. It's a pain to replace and if you need the truck for a living you can't take that chance, but to move dirt around your place it may not be a bad idea. One other thing, make sure you buy brake booster hose, not radidator hose. It looks the same, but unless it is vacuum hose it will suck shut after it gets hot under the hood. I had an old C-60 chevy that just wouldn't stop, and the pedal was hard as if it had a block under it. I took the booster off, bleed the brakes, adjusted them, and nothing helped. When you first started it it had good brakes, but after a few minutes the pedal would get hard again. I finnally found out that someone had replaced the hose and it would get warm and suck shut then no more brakes. HTH a little, Later, Nat
