Komatsu D20A-6 ?

[GuglioLS]

Hey Bob,

Thanks for your kind comments and that link to Murphy pressure gauges. I like the adjustable limit switch feature, that way you can monitor pressure and get a audible or visual warning too -very nice. I need to get me one for the Dozer. So you monitor fuel pressure too? I assume before the filter? What's your typical fuel back pressure and how high does it go before you change filters. Is that setup on your dozer?


The Tiny Tach is from well "TinyTach dot com" ------> Design Technology, Inc., Home of the Tiny-Tach - Diesel Tiny-Tach Tachometer


Oh and you might be happy to know I replaced the steering clutches and steering breaks on my Little Komatsu, however it was NOT a little job! (to me anyway) I'll post that next........



Larry

 

[GuglioLS]

About a month or so ago I finally decided to replace the steering clutches and breaks on the Dozer. The Steering and breaking was slowly degrading the last couple of years. I had been collecting parts over a year to spread the cost out. What had been happening was the breaks would sometimes lock up, or the steering clutches would not disengage causing the engine to bog down and not steer at all. I took a week off from work to get it all done.

First was to jack up the entire Dozer front to rear, the tracks had to be completely off the ground so as to be able to rotate the tracks to access all the bolts around the clutch / break drum.

After doing that was to remove the floor plate, seat, rear plate, batteries, a few tubes and disconnect all the linkages.




Larry

 

[GuglioLS]

After removing all the linkages, valves and other "Stuff" I finally got to the steering break bands and steering clutches. What a mess, it was amazing it worked at all. After removing the steering clutch plates and friction disks (there are 7 of each, on each side) I discovered they were very rusted and worn. No surprise it was hard to steer and the clutches were frozen together by rust. I never got the machine stuck in a bog or otherwise any way to cause this in my very dry climate so I am thinking the machine was stuck in a mud bog for a very long time and never cleaned out before I purchased it.

I realize I should have taken more pictures to show how the clutch and break really work but got lost in taking everything apart, plus I was trashed from head to toe and did not want to touch my camera.



Larry

 

[GuglioLS]

After getting everything cleaned up and allot of sand blasting I painted a few parts and put it all back together. The last picture shows the New Clutch / break drum installed, all new clutch plates and friction disks (inside the drum and cant be seen) and around the outside a new break band. Looks like new. I sure hope it works after putting it all back together. Ive got at least 40 hours into it at this point.




After tightening the last bolt I could hardly wait to feel the results of all that work. After taking it for "A spin around the block" I must say it steers as smooth as butter now, it feels like a new machine with power steering. I am soooooo excited and happy I was able to pull this off and get it completely restored. I'm really enjoying my Dozer now! Thanks for checking this out.


Larry

 

[GuglioLS]

Now for the Financial "Damage" report on this steering break / clutch repair...

I would have "cut the check to the man" for this repair if the price tag were not more than what I paid for the Dozer. Dozer parts are marked up at least 1000% if not more. Labor is 125 / hour. I think they figure most who own a Dozer are road contractors who have no choice but to pay the ridiculous high prices and then pass it on to the government. For instance a simple break band is 200 bucks each (I needed 2) clutch discs and plates enough to do both sides (28 pieces in all) are over $1500 from a dealer I got after market ones off e-bay for 550. The break / clutch drums are 250 each (e-bay). I needed two small splined shafts (dealer only) about 3" long and .75" diameter I got the "shaft" on those at a mere 130 each. Plus a few springs, metric bolts, 4 sets of needle bearings, bearing seals, plus several cans of custom matched paint from NAPA. Oh almost forgot they wanted $44 each for those gaskets (last picture on the right), I needed 2 but made $88 dollars worth of gaskets for 5 bucks worth of gasket material from an auto parts store. It was an expensive repair but overall the dozer has paid for itself with just the road it built for me on my land. Plus I plow snow with it allot now in the winter, then there is the "cool factor" of owning your own dozer which at this point appears to be "priceless"

~ 45 hours labor (I work slow) and $ ~2065.00 in parts and material. Most all my parts are off e-bay from a very good supportive member of this and many other forums, so I got the parts at a fraction of the cost that the manufacturer would have charged. I figured I saved at least 7 grand or more in parts and labor for a steering break - steering clutch job.

Larry

 

[jinman]

Larry, I've noticed over the years that your projects are always superbly done. This is no exception. Both the tach installation and your brake/clutch job were completed with extreme attention to detail. Enjoy the rewards of your labor.:thumbsup:

 

[tlbuser]

Larry

I would have never guessed you could get a timex to match your dozer! New steering clutches and brakes has to make you a happy camper.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Excellent quality professional work, as always Larry.
It seems like there was a lot of condensation in the steering clutch compartments to cause that much corrosion. I installed one of the 1/4" ones on each of my steering compartments to eliminate condensation issues.
Parker - EM SERIES MUFFLER/FLOW CONTROLS

 

[john25mm]

Does anyone know if the hydraulic system on a D20a-5 is stackable i.e. can I add another hydraulic circuit to the system? I want to make a 3 point hitch to the back of my dozer and this would be the easiest way to do it. I want to be able use some of my 3 poin tools and make a ripper attachment also. Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated

 

[GuglioLS]

Jim - Thanks for your kind comments, I appreciate your support and feedback.
TLBuser - HaHaHa that's great, I didn't even realize that El-cheapo wrist watch matched! Thanks for pointing that out. I glued a magnet on the back of the watch with a plastic stand off to hold it to the dash.
Bob - thanks, you nailed it, condensation inside that cavity is a real problem. Perhaps it's the freeze thaw cycles in the winter? Around here in the summer humidity runs 5% or less. Not sure if venting will stop condensation from winter freeze thaw cycles or if I need to build a shed to park it inside? I'd hate to have it all rust up again.