Sears Suburban 10 carb question

   / Sears Suburban 10 carb question #1  

docrocky

Silver Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
207
Location
NW Ohio and SE Michigan
Tractor
Oliver 880, Ford 8N, Ford 9N, Farmall Super C, MF 205, Ford 4400 FEL, Ford 4500 FEL/BH, Cat D-6 Dozer(1957)
Long story: Bought tractor at farm consignment auction for $100. It had a recoil pull start. cleaned it up and took the engine apart enough to check the piston and cylinder and all was OK. Can't remember more details because it was like 4 years ago and several tractors back. As me and buddy (engine restorer) were reassembling and cleaning up the flywheel . points and condenser, the spark plug wire fell out of the ignition coil housing. After a search for a replacement (none found) I merely shoved the wire back into the housing and fixed it in place with epoxy. After we got everything back together and tried to start the engine, it was so stiff that we got exhausted pulling the recoil starter. We could not pull fast enough to see if we were getting spark or not (using direct observation as well as spark plug testor lights). Since I was not restoring the tractor for show but for use of a cultivator as well as a Sears self propelled rototiller, I decided to convert to an electric start and was able to locate a DelcoRemy from a scrapped S10 up at Joe's Outdoor up in Michigan. Well i finally got it all together with a key switch, solenoid and a voltage regulator and lo and behold the engine cranked and to our total delight I got good spark from the Jerry rigged ignition coil. I use the DRemy only as a starter and generator for the battery and use the flywheel magnito and ignition coil for spark. The tractor runs but I am having some questions about the carb.

First off, I can't identify the carb from the S10 downloaded manuals. The engine is a Tecumseh 143-579032.

Secondly, the bowl has 2 pins or screws coming from the botton. The center one is the largest and the smaller one is off centered and seems to have a spring up the shaft and it allows you to push it in and out of the bowl, but then there is a steady fuel leak.

Can anyone suggest how this carb is adjusted and what function do these 2 screw adjusters play?

thank You
 

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   / Sears Suburban 10 carb question #2  
bottom big screw is the main fuel / jet ... turn center pin in to lean mixture , turn out to run richer ( normally 1 1/2 turns out from being seated )
the nut around it holds the "fuel bowl" in place... the "float and needle valve are inside the bowl ...

the second "pin" is the bowl drain .. use to drain water , crud , etc if the machine sits for awhile ....

on the side should be 2 more screws .. one controls the position of the throttle at idle ( sets how far open / closed the throttle plate is ) ...
the other is recessed into the carb side and controls the idle fuel mixture ( idle jet )
 
   / Sears Suburban 10 carb question
  • Thread Starter
#3  
jaotguy: Thank you for the quick reply and the information.

I have also tried to install a kill switch but connecting a grounding wire to the spark plug wire as it connects to the top of the spark plug. The switch opens and closes the circuit but it block disables the spark inspite of the switch opened or closed. Where is my error??

I tried coking and shutting down the throttle but it wont kill the engine.

Is ther a better way to kill the engine???
 
   / Sears Suburban 10 carb question #4  
the wire you attached can't handle the high voltage ( nor can the switch ) the spark is jumping inside the switch instead of the plug ....

there should be a wire from the points ( black in color ) to the coil ... when you touch it to the block, it should ground the points and stop the engine ....
 
   / Sears Suburban 10 carb question
  • Thread Starter
#5  
jaotguy:
Question...the small pin used to "drain the bowl" on my unit continuously drips fuel as long as i have the fuel line opened. No matter if I turn it clocl or counter clockwise I can not get it to stop dripping. How does it "turn off" so to speak?
thanks
 
   / Sears Suburban 10 carb question #6  
it HAD a rubber gasket ... on the inside of the bowl ... probably long gone by now ....
it doesn't twist open or closed , just spring loaded to stay closed ... push up to drain ,

drop the bowl ,
buy a small neoprene O-ring
push the pin up
stretch it over the pin in the inside
replace the bowl ...

or if you will never use the feature, go to wally world and buy a tube of "seal all" ( gas resistant ) and just glue it closed ....
 
 
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