Cub Cadet 2166 problem - transmission

[Wombat33]

I just changed the transmission fluid in my 2166. It seemed to work fine; was driving it around the yard. But, a few days later, I went to start it and the 2166 would neither go forward nor reverse. It would not move. I checked the level of the fluid, it seemed fine.

Stumped . . . Any ideas?

 

[art]

This dosen't sound right, were there any noises from the transmission?

 

[CCinCT]

Check your pedal linkage?

 

[Wombat33]

No odd sounds. In fact, it ran well after I started it.

I will check the pedal linkage.

I removed the mower and belts to sharpen the blades and do other general maintenance. That wouldn't have any effect, would it?

Oh, and instead of putting Cub Cadet transmission fluid in it, I put in 15w-50 Mobil One synthetic oil. The Stihl dealer I go to says he uses that in all his Deere's and other riding mowers they repair. Strange thing is, the 2166 ran right after I changed the filter and oil. Now it doesn't. The forward/reverse pedals feel "mushy" when pushed; the spring slowly back out.

 

[Wombat33]

Does anyone have a comment on the transmission fluid that I used in place of the recommended Cub Cadet-branded fluid? Could that be the cause?

 

[JTKub]

It's possible you need to bleed air from the system. Start the engine, pull the bypass lever and mash and release the pedals a few times while in bypass mode. Other than that, is the level ok? What trans filter did you use? I have read of maybe 2-3 cases where an automotive filter was used and the trans lost all functionality. Once the filter was replaced with an OEM or quality AM, all was well. I dunno how your climate is, but I wouldn't go with a 50wt trans oil. I'd stick with a 40wt. FWIW, I have Shell Rotella-T 15w-40 in mine (that specs Cub Cadet Drive System Fluid Plus) and it performs flawlessly.

Joel

 

[Wombat33]

I actually used a Cub Cadet filter. This weekend I will try to bleed the valve you mentioned. Oh, and I live in Dallas, TX, so climate is not a problem.

 

[Wombat33]

Update: I checked the linkage from the forward/reverse foot pedals, and they're all properly connected. My tractor still will not move.

I called a mower mechanic the other day and he said that the 15w-50 is pretty heavy and that it may need to warm up (it was about 70 degrees in Dallas this past weekend). Well, I left the tractor running for about 5 minutes and tried the pedals again. No luck.

Any other ideas? (I'm pretty close to draining the oil I just put in and splurging for the Cub transmission oil).

[JTKub: where would the bypass lever be?]

 

[moe1942]

you may have learned the sad and expensive lesson about not using the recommended fluid..about the only thing to do now is a flush and refill with CCC fluid. Then keep your fingers crossed.

 

[dahawkes]

I just changed the transmission fluid in my 2166. It seemed to work fine; was driving it around the yard. But, a few days later, I went to start it and the 2166 would neither go forward nor reverse. It would not move. I checked the level of the fluid, it seemed fine.

Stumped . . . Any ideas?

I went through the very same thing. I'll save you the cost of the repair.
There is an "o" ring on what the diagram calls a charge pump. The "O" ring gets hard and won't seal. There is a cap on top of the trans just behind the dipstick. You might have to remove the body. The cap has two small bolts that hold it on. When you remove that cap, the "o" ring is in there.
Replace that "O" ring and your problems will be gone.
If you are mechanically inclined you can save yourself the dealer expense.
Just look at your diagram that came with machine.