Is Cub Cadet 2500 Series Worth the Money?

[MelLandry]

Hi everyone. I'm new here and I hope you can help me out...

I'm looking at purchasing a new lawn tractor. I have my heart set on the CC 2550. I am just having second thoughts about pulling the trigger. I can get a CC 1050 for $1999, while the 2550 is $3999. Is the 2550 TWICE as good as the 1050? Will the 2550 last TWICE as long as the 1050?

I compared the specs and was even more confused

The 1050 has:
2 more horsepower (thou it's a B&S rather than the Kohler in the 2550, so that's proably not an apples to apples comparison)
Has a 9 gauge frame (the 2050 is 11, but it is "twin c-channel")
3.5 gallon fuel tank (the 2050 is only 2.25)

The only clear advantages on the specs that go to the 2550 is the shaft drive and the cast iron transmissoin housing (the 1050 is aluminum) and the c-channel frame.

Is there something I'm missing here (there has to be) that makes the 2550 twice as much. I can be burdened with changing a drive belt occassionaly to save $2,000. Even the B&S vs Kohler doesn't seem like $2000 worth. If B&S is as bad as some people make them out to be, there would B&S lawnmowers dead on the curb at every turn.

This mower would be used nearly exclusively for cutting grass. Not much pulling if ever, and we don't have snow here in S. Louisiana.

Thanks for the tips,

Mel

 

[arthurb]

MelLandry,

I'm not a CC owner, but I'll try to answer your question. Basically, the 1050 is a lawn tractor. It would normally use your basic tow behind/pull type lawn attachments. Like a lawn sweeper, dethatcher, areator, fertilizer spreader, etc. It can use a front blade and snow blower as well. The 2550 is a garden tractor. It can use the same attachments as the 1050, and ground engaging attachments with a rear sleeve hitch as well. Like a moldboard plow, disc, cultivator, rear blade, box blade, etc. The 1050 isn't designed to use ground engaging attachments.

The 1050 would probably serve you well if you're just cutting grass. If you want to have a garden, or do some light landscape work then the 2550 would be a better choice. I don't see much difference between engine choices. They seem equal. I've owned both LTs and GTs, (Lawn Tractor, Garden Tractor), with B&S and Kohler engines. Make sure the B&S engine is a Vanguard, not an Intek. The Vanguard is made to last longer then the Intek. The same with the Kohler engine. Make sure it's a Command, not a Courage.

I can't remember how much grass you said that you will be mowing? I currently have a Toro WH GT with a 20hp Kohler Command engine. It has a 60" mower deck, and I mow 3 acres with it. I also use it for snow removal and preparing a 40' x 50' garden. A GT fits my needs better then a LT. Personally, I prefer the shaft drive, heavy frame, cast iron front axle and rear axle housing. I feel a heavy duty GT will last longer then a light duty LT. Basically, you get what you paid for. A shaft driven tranny will give you more pushing/pulling torque then a belt driven tranny in the long run. That's based on my experience.

This info is based on my personal experiences. The 1050 LT just might be your ticket. Just take your time and weighout your present and future needs versus 1050/2550 capabilities. I hope this info will help you. Good Luck.

 

[MelLandry]

Thanks Art,

I'm so "green" it's almost painful to read my own post. I really have no clue about what I want or need... I just know I need a new mower (as my old one is cutting grass in heaven).

Let me set the scene...

I have about an acre with a house (so I'm cutting less than an acre). Most of it is flat, though not exactly "smooth" (bumps and such, but nothing extreme). At the very front, my property meets a road that is probably 6 feet above the grade of my lawn. This result in almost a 40 degree slope of about 10 feet or so. This is my only major challenge.

Here's what I want:

I basically want the best value in a mower on a cost/year basis. Meaning a $1500 mower that last 5 years is equal (in my mind) to a $3000 mower that last 10 years (if maintenance costs are averaged). I'm willing to pay a little more for features that will increase my comfort and/or decrease my cutting time.

My past mower was an old use Craftsman 46". The deck size seemed fine, and any problems I had were a result of the age of the mower. (I paid $200 and used it for two year... a pretty good value at $100/year).

So maybe I should take a few steps back and ask for advice from there.

I came to the CC 2550 because my neighboor has a three year old CC 1050 that he loves. I visited the local independed dealer looking to purchase a new 1050. The dealer said they no longer carried the 1000 series because of a rash of problems they had with those mowers (he explained that after the 3rd full refund, they decided to stop carrying them). I'd like to buy from the local independent dealer because of the service and because I like to support the mom and pop retailers around my small country town.

I also visited the local JD dealer and I was underimpressed with the visible quality of their entry level tractors. When I looked at the X-level JDs, I experienced significant sticker shock. I was also not very impressed with the dealer (I called and specifically asked for a LA 145, which they said they had in stock without hesitatoin. When I got there, there was no LA 145). Also, the same neighboor who loves his CC said he had a JD that he did not like nearly as much as his CD.

In my personal opinion, the JDs are out. So if I want to buy from the local dealer, I can get a CC 2500 series or a CC Z-force. If it honestly isn't worth the money (as far as my cost/year thoughts go), then I'll head to tractor supply and pick up the CC 1050 be done with it.

So ultimately, I guess my question is... as a guy who's really only going to "cut grass" with his lawn mower... will I benefit from the CD 2500 series, or will the 1000 series provide the same cost/year benefits?

A secondary question may be is the Z-force more similar in quality to the 2500 series than the 1000 series (I may be willing to pay a premium for the faster cutting time and manuverability of the Z-force).

Lastly... would a zero turn like the Z-force be able to handle the slope at the front of my property?

 

[arthurb]

MelLandry,

In my opinion, it sounds like the LT1050 would fit your bill. Here is my suggestion to answer all of your questions. See if your local CC dealer will bring out a 1050, 2550 and the ZT to see which one will fit your needs for your property. This would give you a better feel for riding/operating on that grade/slope out by the road. A lot of dealers will do this if they know you are serious about buying from them. I've never heard if Lowes, Home Depot or Tractor Supply will do this. Do you have a Simplicity dealer close by?

 

[MelLandry]

Thanks agian Arthur,

I know the dealer won't bring out a 1050, because they don't carry them.

Sounds like the 2500 may be more tractor than I really need.

I just searched the Simplicity website for my closest dealer... 50+ miles away. Should I go check them out? Is their a particular model you recommend?

 

[Baucom]

The CC 2500 series is probably the toughest tractor style mower under $5000 on the market. The 1000 series is an avg run of the mill box store grade tractor. The 2500 has a Kohler Command engine, shaft drive, twin c-channel frame, 1" rear axle, and a heavy duty cast-iron transmission with a spin on filter for ease of maintenance. Regardless of what CC literature says about "Professional grade", the B&S engine on the 1000 series is an Intek (a true "Pro" engine that size costs about the same as the whole 1050 mower), there is no mention of servicing the transmission in the brochure (like on the 1500 series) so I doubt there is a trans drain plug, and 3/4" rear axle.

To sum it up, a mower consists of an engine, transmission, axles, and mower deck, all held together by the frame. The 2500 series has a commercial grade engine, heavy duty fully serviceable transmission, and 1/3 larger rear axle than the 1000 series. You won't be sorry for buying quality.

If you decide the 2550 isn't worth the extra cash for your needs, and if you would just buy the 1050 from TSC, then I would recommend shopping for the cheapest mower that is the size you want. Husqvarna, Craftsman, CC 1000 series, JD 100 series, Snapper @ Sears, Ariens @ HD, and Husky @ TSC are all about equal in quality.

 

[bontai_Joe]

The 1050 would cut your grass fine, but if you want to remove snow, or intend to pull a coring airator, the tranny in the 2500 series will last a lot longer than what's in the 1050.

 

[Mickey_Fx]

Like a couple others have said, the 1050 is an entry level machine and is made as cheaply as they can to hit a price point.

There is a lot more than spec's that define a products qlty. One spec that can help is the weight. How much more does the 2xxx series weigh than the 1050. Looking at each, can you see the places where the extra weight is adding to the strength and qlty?

Won't find it in the spec's but how are wear points handled? Bushings, bearings? how about grease fittings? All these things add to cost and qlty. My 3xxx series Cub is built for the long haul. Grease fitting in many places, even small things like the cross shaft for the brake lever has bronze bushing on both ends. The mower deck tips the scales at >250# and has a doz grease fittings.

A qlty machine if taken care of properly will be running strong closer to 20 yrs than 10. And how much is it still worth at what you consider it's end of life. The Cub replaced a JD 318 that was >15yrs old ad had a book value of over $2k. My old Bolen's is nearing 40 yrs old and is still running and earing it's keep. It cost a little over $2k in 1970 with mower and tiller.

Qlty cost a little more up front but over the long haul it is likely going to be cheaper.

If the budget can afford it, I'd go for the 2xxx series machine.

 

[artfull dodger]

Its a shame the nearest Simplicity dealer is so far, I also would highly recomend looking at them from a personal standpoint. You defintanly need to spend the money for either a briggs Vanguard or the Kohler Command, the Briggs Intek and Kohler Courage are very entry level and prone to valve adjustment issues on the Briggs and oil leaks on that tin valve cover for the funky duel cam set up on the courage. How do I know this? I am a mechanic for the local Cub Cadet dealer. We try to get folks into a Vanguard or Command powered tractor when we can, but some folks are held back by what they can afford. I prefer the older 700 and 900 series Simplicty/AC tractors. The cut quality from the full floating deck cannot be beat. Other than oil leaks on the courage valve cover, so far I havent seen many issues with them. On the Intek, we have lots of them come in for hard starting, like the compression release isnt working. I have to reset the valve clearance on the intake valve to get the engine to start again. The little starter cant get the piston past the compression stroke without that adjustment. There is nothing wrong with have to much tractor for the job, just means it doesnt work as hard. Keep it clean and properly serviced and it should last for many many years. Good Luck with whatever you purchase.

 

[mschech]

I love heavier duty.
I have a almost 20 yr old Cub, a 1861, the equivalent of a modern 2554,and it takes anything i throw at it. Pulling a trailer with a ton of gravel. Cutting trails though sumac infested woods. pretending it's a bulldozer.

For you, get the 1050.
Theres no reason to spend TWICE as much for capability you don't need.
If it dies in half the time, buy another. If it doesn't your ahead of the game.

Just be sure to do whatever maintenance might be mentioned for it. Its probably even more important on that level.