Kohler V-twin Head Removal

[GTSRider]

I have to remove heads on my Kohler Command V-twin due to blown head gasket... but if any one has done it.... can it be done WITHOUT
removing read fan shroud ?
I think so.... but not sure ... I have not started job yet.
Thanks .
Pete

 

[Gator6x4]

Head shrouding has to be removed. Kohler has a funny head gasket replacement procedure. They recommend torquing the head bolts with the valve push rods from underneath the rocker arms. They also recommed tightening the rocker arms down without the push rods installed under the rocker arm and in the lifter. You need a wire loop on a screw driver to cycle the rocker arm up and down to slide the push rods in after everything is tighten down. Make sure and spin the engine to get the piston to retract on the cylinder you are working on to give the valve room to open fully when installing the push rods. If you have downloaded the manual from the Kohler site the procedure is described in detail in the manual.

Most people also install new head bolts when replacing the gasket.

 

[GTSRider]

I will try to get cylinder on TDC compression ... so
valves will both be closed.
Kohler gasket kit comes with new head bolts.... pretty cool.

 

[GTSRider]

Had I actually looked in the Kohler box for new gasket kit....
I would have seen that Kohler provided installation instructions....
step by step.... very good actually.... this won't be such a tough job after all.
Biggest time consumer is cleaning everything..... ugggh......

 

[GTSRider]

Just an update.... rear shroud DOES have to be removed.... in order to remove intake manifold.... argh.... this is turning into a bigger job than originally
thought.... and the old grass debris found under the head shrouds was unreal !
Coupled with it being oil soaked from the leaky head gasket...man... what a mess... the cleaning alone will take hours !
So much for my afternoon job.... : (
This one will take me several days of working on it a little at a time..
Will keep you posted on progress / problems...

 

[rcbe]

that grass crapped up under the cooling shrouds could have heat-damaged yer engine - keep yer eyes open for such..

 

[GTSRider]

I am afraid you might be right.... when I pulled the starter motor...
there was sludge built up in the rear shraud that looked like a gooy
paste.... I am afraid oil got in there through a worn rear seal.... so I really should replace that at this time....
Anyone know if that can be done with engine IN frame.....
gosh this project is going deeper and deeper.

 

[Gator6x4]

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. No the rear seal cannot be replaced without disconnecting the drive shaft and then slipping the engine forward and removing the flywheel. From what you described I would obtain a couple of cans of engine degreaser, strip the shrouding and clean the engine real good prior to starting repairs. Be careful when removing the large fly wheel to gain access to the leaking rear seal. Do not tap on the flywheel with a hammer. You could damage the ceramics on the inside of the flywheel. Please use a puller to remove the flywheel. Be careful when removing the old seal. Do not damage the seal seat area. Also make a mental note of how deep the old seal is inserted. Try to install the new seal near the same depth. Take your time on the repair. Do not hurry and you will enjoy many more years of service.

I forgot to add. I am quite sure you will have to remove the stator to gain access to the rear seal after you remove the flywheel.

 

[GTSRider]

Oh Man.... that's what I was afraid of..... the ONLY way
I can get lucky at this point now is if the oil entered that area, by trickling down from head gasket.... but I think that is wishful thinking....
what say you ?
And yes you are correct... I will have to carefully clean gunk off engine
before starting to pull heads , and rear section...
... I bought this used a year ago, and it was apparent that it had
been abused.... but must move forward , and fix all correctly.
Thanks for your input.

 

[Gator6x4]

If it was me I would remove the engine. Remove the shrouding and soak with engine gunk. Wash the engine good and then start the repairs. Some engines are so crud covered they must be soaked in kerosene for a couple of days to get the gunk to turn loose. I would also replace the front and rear crankshaft seals. I would obtain a set of rings and run a glaze buster down the bores. The pistons, rods and caps are numbered if you decide to replace the rings. Keeps everything together for the cylinder you removed it from. Also be careful when removing the front of the engine. The governor will fall out. The front of the engine uses a light coating of RTV for a gasket. It is a machine fit so don't be prying or scratching on the surface.