Cub RZT 50 Pto issues
- Thread starter wat5150
- Start date
I had another issue with my pto today. It seems if I have used my mower alot and then go in reverse the pto wont engage again. i can hear a click like the pto wants to engage but it doesnt. Sometimes if I get off the mower and move the belt and pulley along and try pto again it comes on. It wouldnt even be that big of an issue if the mower didnt shut off in reverse!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ive unplugged both of the plugs at the bottom of each control arm and that made it so the pto wouldnt engage at all. I have the left one unhooked and it will engage but I have to leave the right one plugged in. There has to be a way to bypass that thing.
Budeastes
New member
I had the same issues, mine got to the point it would kick back on at all, after buying several switches, at least 3. I decided to start bypassing them. That was 2 years ago. The only safety issue I have is it now starts on or off the mower. Pto engaged or not and it doesn't matter wether the park brake is on or not. Haven't lost any body parts yet. All I did was plug in a small wire into each safety switch beneath the handlebars and chased down the seat switch.
Having RZT50 PTO clutch issues.
Clutch will not engage when the mower has run for an hour or so. After letting the mower cool down for an hour or so, the PTO will engage.
A while back the PTO switch failed completely and I replaced it, only to run into the problem above.
The mower is an older unit. The manual wiring diagram shows 3 relays, one for the PTO. However...this mower has no relays - the PTO switch goes directly to the PTO - no relay.
I'm guessing that the PTO may be drawing higher amperage when hot and overloading the PTO switch.
I plan on adding a relay & fuse for the PTO circuit, instead of having the PTO current run thru the PTO switch.
Before doing that, I'm wondering about notes that I've seen which say that a bad clutch gap leads to higher amperage draw. (reply #2 in this thread - RANDYT). I can't see how the gap affects amperage, but I'm ready to be educated!
Clutch will not engage when the mower has run for an hour or so. After letting the mower cool down for an hour or so, the PTO will engage.
A while back the PTO switch failed completely and I replaced it, only to run into the problem above.
The mower is an older unit. The manual wiring diagram shows 3 relays, one for the PTO. However...this mower has no relays - the PTO switch goes directly to the PTO - no relay.
I'm guessing that the PTO may be drawing higher amperage when hot and overloading the PTO switch.
I plan on adding a relay & fuse for the PTO circuit, instead of having the PTO current run thru the PTO switch.
Before doing that, I'm wondering about notes that I've seen which say that a bad clutch gap leads to higher amperage draw. (reply #2 in this thread - RANDYT). I can't see how the gap affects amperage, but I'm ready to be educated!
this may help Warner Electric look in the Turf and garden section for pdf on garden tractor troubleshooting, etc. much info there from warner clutch.
The PTO problem is fixed. To contribute to the forum in return for the help that I found here, here is the story:
The initial problem was the PTO not engaging after mowing for an hour or so. I'd have to stop & let the mower sit for a half hour before continuing. The problem advanced to the PTO not working at all.
Solution process:
I first traced the problem to a failed PTO switch. I replaced the switch ($20) only to have the mower work for a couple of times and then burn out the switch again.
Doing some research, I learned that the RZT50 had two electrical designs. One has 3 relays (PTO, seat, brake). These are there to avoid current load going thru the switches. A second design has no relays! The current load runs thru the switches. My mower was the one without the relays. A high current draw from the PTO was burning out the switch. My solution was to install a standard automotive relay in the PTO circuit. The PTO switch switched on the relay, which carried the current for the PTO. This stopped the switch burnout, but didn't solve the problem. After an hour of mowing, the battery voltage would drop to 7V and the PTO would cut out.
Hoping to not find a bad PTO, I checked out a couple of dead-end possibilities. I had the battery tested & it was fine. The alternator/charging system was also fine, as it would charge a low battery as long as the PTO was off.
Some notes here suggest that a bad gap in the clutch could cause high current draw, so I adjusted the gap with a feeler gauge to .012. There are links to clutch manuals here in the forum. In my case, this made no difference.
Finally resigned to a likely bad PTO clutch, I tested the resistance of the PTO coil. It's simple to do with the PTO on the mower. Just disconnect the plug to the PTO can test the resistance of the PTO side with an ohmmeter. 2-4 ohms is good. Lower or higher is bad. In my case is was less than 1 ohm, indicating a PTO coil that would draw high current. Time for a new PTO clutch!
Cub parts and my local dealer want between $300-$400 for a new clutch (not installed). I easily found a new replacement clutch on Amazon (Extreme Equipment Torque Series http://www.amazon.com/shops/PPowerSales ) for $179. Removing the old and installing the new clutch was surprisingly easy and the new clutch came with excellent instructions.
The mower is now working, pending the next Cub ZT failure
The initial problem was the PTO not engaging after mowing for an hour or so. I'd have to stop & let the mower sit for a half hour before continuing. The problem advanced to the PTO not working at all.
Solution process:
I first traced the problem to a failed PTO switch. I replaced the switch ($20) only to have the mower work for a couple of times and then burn out the switch again.
Doing some research, I learned that the RZT50 had two electrical designs. One has 3 relays (PTO, seat, brake). These are there to avoid current load going thru the switches. A second design has no relays! The current load runs thru the switches. My mower was the one without the relays. A high current draw from the PTO was burning out the switch. My solution was to install a standard automotive relay in the PTO circuit. The PTO switch switched on the relay, which carried the current for the PTO. This stopped the switch burnout, but didn't solve the problem. After an hour of mowing, the battery voltage would drop to 7V and the PTO would cut out.
Hoping to not find a bad PTO, I checked out a couple of dead-end possibilities. I had the battery tested & it was fine. The alternator/charging system was also fine, as it would charge a low battery as long as the PTO was off.
Some notes here suggest that a bad gap in the clutch could cause high current draw, so I adjusted the gap with a feeler gauge to .012. There are links to clutch manuals here in the forum. In my case, this made no difference.
Finally resigned to a likely bad PTO clutch, I tested the resistance of the PTO coil. It's simple to do with the PTO on the mower. Just disconnect the plug to the PTO can test the resistance of the PTO side with an ohmmeter. 2-4 ohms is good. Lower or higher is bad. In my case is was less than 1 ohm, indicating a PTO coil that would draw high current. Time for a new PTO clutch!
Cub parts and my local dealer want between $300-$400 for a new clutch (not installed). I easily found a new replacement clutch on Amazon (Extreme Equipment Torque Series http://www.amazon.com/shops/PPowerSales ) for $179. Removing the old and installing the new clutch was surprisingly easy and the new clutch came with excellent instructions.
The mower is now working, pending the next Cub ZT failure