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  1. #11
    New Member jabel's Avatar
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    Well your getting excellent advice & help from these fellas,cause you need to pinpoint what its doing &/or not doing correctly b4 you can/shld proceed! The art &/or science of good troubleshooting is to know the system, that being said, you shld at least know the basics or at least know how to use your tools & what to use,why & where! Once you know what items do what,how & why,it becomes much easier & simpler to trblsht/diagnose! Also a good wire diagram/shematic does wanders too, if you dont know where wires are supposed to be & what color,how can you possbly discern the problems? All that aside, If you have a voltmeter, all you really have to do is check for voltage here & there at the right places & at the rght times, like the guy said, about 14 volts while its running & about 12 when its off! If you check for volts,your checking for power! If there is no voltage where there is supposed to be,then your not getting power to that place/circuit/switch/relay/fuse/light etc!! It sounds a lot like a faulty or missing voltage regulator to me, a bad one will drain the batt really fast! Also check your stator & stator wires & stator field windings, check to see if any of the wires are getting hot while its running! Always check the easy,obvious stuff first, it will save you money a lot of times! I've seen car's whole elec system shut dwn & not take a jump start just from a corroded battery terminal(usually positive) ! Always disconnect the ground/negative term 1st & hook it up last! You know how the guy(s) said the mower shld run w/o the batt? Well,once your veh starts(tractor or car) , it really runs off the alternator(or generator) , the battery's most imp role is in starting/cranking power for starter & initial system voltage, from then on, the alternator takes over & also charges the batt! Newer cars have regulators built into the alternator(although still seperate inside) whereas older units had sep voltage regulators, & when you had a drastic change in charging(under or over charging) it was generally an indication of a bad voltg reg! Sometimes the batery wld be swollen/convex on one side & concave on the other! W/o the reg,the alternator is very simple, the reg is the "brain" of the charg systm & is moree sensitive & much more likely to be a culprit than the stator/alternator! With riding mowers, the vltg reg also serves as a "rectifier" which changes "DC"(direct current-ie 12-14volts) into A/C ( alternating current)(which is the opposite of an inverter,which changes "DC"currenttt into "A/C & if I'm not mistaken, the "coil" then "amplifies/multiplies" (makes voltage much higher) for ignition! It takes a lot more than 12-14 volts to fire the spark plug(s). If tou buy a gd multimeter( an electrcl meter which usually measures voltage;d/c & a/c , ohms(resistance) in diff levels(which can also be used to check for "Continuity", another way to see if power is getting thru so to speak, ie the circuit is unbroken & to check for Current/Amps in D/C mode only or amps/current in BOTH D/C & A/C! ( some will only measure in "D/C" bec it dsnt take much current/amps to "Fry" something! I was gonna say if you get a "decent" multi-meter, it shld have instructions on how to check diff values (like amps,volts, ohms etc as well as how to check relays & solonoids(& injectors etc) Good luck !!

  2. #12
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    590

    Default Re: Changed motors NEED wiring HELP!

    Jabel - you got a lot of questionable data in that last post - hope it doesn't screw up the OP.

    BTW - wonder what the rated amperage output of that replacement briggs engine is vs. the current draw of that m48 elect PTO ?...
    Got yer manual ?

  3. #13
    LD1
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    Apr 2008
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    Central Ohio
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    Kubota l3400

    Default Re: Changed motors NEED wiring HELP!

    Yea, definatally a lot of mis-information.

    I neglected to even read the post (due to rambling-type run-on with lack of paragraphs that make it difficult to follow). But since you mentioned it, I tried to decipher it, and yea.....some mis-info.

    I dont even go into any detail.....pointless in starting a flaming war at this point so I will leave it at that.
    ".........there is only one way to find out."
    "Ok, hold my beer and watch this.........."


    Ford 5500 Backhoe
    Kubota L3400GST W/LA463 FEL
    2005 Dodge 3500 4x4 Diesel
    8N Rebuilt and restored
    Bushhog 306
    3 Homemade wood hauling trailers
    Dolmar 6400 84cc ported
    Sachs-Dolmar 120SI Ported
    (4) Sachs-Dolmar 116SI Ported
    Dolmar PS540
    Sachs-Dolmar 115i
    Sachs-Dolmar 117
    Sachs-Dolmar 112

  4. #14
    New Member jabel's Avatar
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    Oct 2012
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    Well sorry fellas! Didn't mean to upset anyone! I'll try to curb my enthusiasm next time though! Btw, what misinfo was there, I am just curious & only want to know for the record & not to argue w/anyone,really! I'll also try to keep in paragragh form & not "run on" & keep it very short !Didn't mean to "mislead" anyone or confuse. Thanks, Jim

  5. #15
    LD1
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    Kubota l3400

    Default Re: Changed motors NEED wiring HELP!

    Quote Originally Posted by jabel View Post
    Well your getting excellent advice & help from these fellas,cause you need to pinpoint what its doing &/or not doing correctly b4 you can/shld proceed! The art &/or science of good troubleshooting is to know the system, that being said, you shld at least know the basics or at least know how to use your tools & what to use,why & where! Once you know what items do what,how & why,it becomes much easier & simpler to trblsht/diagnose! Also a good wire diagram/shematic does wanders too, if you dont know where wires are supposed to be & what color,how can you possbly discern the problems? All that aside, If you have a voltmeter, all you really have to do is check for voltage here & there at the right places & at the rght times, like the guy said, about 14 volts while its running & about 12 when its off! If you check for volts,your checking for power! If there is no voltage where there is supposed to be,then your not getting power to that place/circuit/switch/relay/fuse/light etc!! It sounds a lot like a faulty or missing voltage regulator to me, a bad one will drain the batt really fast! Also check your stator & stator wires & stator field windings, check to see if any of the wires are getting hot while its running! Always check the easy,obvious stuff first, it will save you money a lot of times! I've seen car's whole elec system shut dwn & not take a jump start just from a corroded battery terminal(usually positive) ! Always disconnect the ground/negative term 1st & hook it up last! You know how the guy(s) said the mower shld run w/o the batt? Well,once your veh starts(tractor or car) , it really runs off the alternator(or generator) , the battery's most imp role is in starting/cranking power for starter & initial system voltage, from then on, the alternator takes over & also charges the batt! Newer cars have regulators built into the alternator(although still seperate inside) whereas older units had sep voltage regulators, & when you had a drastic change in charging(under or over charging) it was generally an indication of a bad voltg reg! Sometimes the batery wld be swollen/convex on one side & concave on the other! W/o the reg,the alternator is very simple, the reg is the "brain" of the charg systm & is moree sensitive & much more likely to be a culprit than the stator/alternator! With riding mowers, the vltg reg also serves as a "rectifier" which changes "DC"(direct current-ie 12-14volts) into A/C ( alternating current)(which is the opposite of an inverter,which changes "DC"currenttt into "A/C & if I'm not mistaken, the "coil" then "amplifies/multiplies" (makes voltage much higher) for ignition! It takes a lot more than 12-14 volts to fire the spark plug(s). If tou buy a gd multimeter( an electrcl meter which usually measures voltage;d/c & a/c , ohms(resistance) in diff levels(which can also be used to check for "Continuity", another way to see if power is getting thru so to speak, ie the circuit is unbroken & to check for Current/Amps in D/C mode only or amps/current in BOTH D/C & A/C! ( some will only measure in "D/C" bec it dsnt take much current/amps to"Fry" something! I was gonna say if you get a "decent" multi-meter, it shld have instructions on how to check diff values (like amps,volts, ohms etc as well as how to check relays & solonoids(& injectors etc) Good luck !!
    I would have worded the items in red a bit differently
    ".........there is only one way to find out."
    "Ok, hold my beer and watch this.........."


    Ford 5500 Backhoe
    Kubota L3400GST W/LA463 FEL
    2005 Dodge 3500 4x4 Diesel
    8N Rebuilt and restored
    Bushhog 306
    3 Homemade wood hauling trailers
    Dolmar 6400 84cc ported
    Sachs-Dolmar 120SI Ported
    (4) Sachs-Dolmar 116SI Ported
    Dolmar PS540
    Sachs-Dolmar 115i
    Sachs-Dolmar 117
    Sachs-Dolmar 112

  6. #16
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
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    933
    Tractor
    2012 John Deere 3520 Deluxe Cab

    Default Re: Changed motors NEED wiring HELP!

    Quote Originally Posted by LD1 View Post
    Yea, definatally a lot of mis-information.

    I neglected to even read the post (due to rambling-type run-on with lack of paragraphs that make it difficult to follow). But since you mentioned it, I tried to decipher it, and yea.....some mis-info.

    I dont even go into any detail.....pointless in starting a flaming war at this point so I will leave it at that.
    Well get used to the rambling cause it seems like this is the type of posts he postingon the forums hahahah. Jabel, i know you probably mean well but people like short and sweet tips not a 3 page essay trying to come off like your teeaching a class room

  7. #17
    LD1
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    Apr 2008
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    9,682
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    Central Ohio
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    Kubota l3400

    Default Re: Changed motors NEED wiring HELP!

    For the record, I dont mind long posts. AS LONG AS some proper grammar and paragraphs to separate things are used. When its a big run-on, I usually (and think most others as well) dont even bother reading.
    ".........there is only one way to find out."
    "Ok, hold my beer and watch this.........."


    Ford 5500 Backhoe
    Kubota L3400GST W/LA463 FEL
    2005 Dodge 3500 4x4 Diesel
    8N Rebuilt and restored
    Bushhog 306
    3 Homemade wood hauling trailers
    Dolmar 6400 84cc ported
    Sachs-Dolmar 120SI Ported
    (4) Sachs-Dolmar 116SI Ported
    Dolmar PS540
    Sachs-Dolmar 115i
    Sachs-Dolmar 117
    Sachs-Dolmar 112

  8. #18
    New Member jabel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    12

    Default Re: Changed motors NEED wiring HELP!

    thanks for the advice shortthrow50 , I appreciate that & I like those dogs ! are they Border Collies? I have a border collie/german shepard mix that my Mom brght home, bout 10yrs old now! I'll try to keep answers short & sweet for now on! thanks again!

  9. #19
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    3,942
    Location
    NC
    Tractor
    Kubota Grand L3830

    Default Re: Changed motors NEED wiring HELP!

    One of the first place I would look is the regulator. A Kawasaki engine uses a different regulator than the Briggs. It sounds like the person that did the engine swap tried to use the Kawasaki wiring for the Briggs. I don't think this is going to work. I have attached two wiring diagrams for the 21 horsepower Briggs engine. Check the wiring on your system and see if it is close.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Changed motors  NEED wiring HELP!-msd-briggs-strattontecumseh-ignition-system   Changed motors  NEED wiring HELP!-unledml.jpg  

  10. #20
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    33
    Location
    Section Al
    Tractor
    cub LT1042

    Default Re: Changed motors NEED wiring HELP!

    Thanks LD1, I connected the loose wire to the battery and it seemed to work fine, for about an hour, then the electric clutch just quit. i checked the volts on battery and it is down to 8.20. recharged battery, reading 13.80 volts, mowed for about 30 minutes and the same thing happened, clutch quit! Would it be possible the something wrong with the clutch? If so, how could i test it. I set the air gap to .10, but not sure if thats correct. This has a 21 hsp briggs so i dont know the correct air gap. I called a shop and he could not or would not tell me without taking it to him, and I'm sure for a service charge. Can I get some help?

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