Changed motors NEED wiring HELP!

   / Changed motors NEED wiring HELP! #1  

bamaman01

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Joined
May 17, 2012
Messages
34
Location
Section Al
Tractor
cub LT1042
I just had my original motor replaced, a kawasaki 19 hsp, with a 21 hsp. Briggs,OHV. It worked fine for a while but I cannot figure out what is happenig, Something is pulling new batteries down and causing clutch to stall . I replaced battery twice within a month and works for a mowing or two then back to dead battery and stalling clutch.I had a part time small engine guy do the exchange for me and it seems that maybe he didn't wire it correctly I just need a simple wiring solution to go by. there ar too many loose wires from original motor. This motor is mounted on a Tank M48 mower. Can I get some help from some of you knowlegable machanic.
Thanks in avance.
 
   / Changed motors NEED wiring HELP! #2  
Do you have a VOM? (volt-ohm meter)

Why did you replace the batteries instead of simply charging them??

It could be a few things, but you really need a VOM to further troubleshoot. New fully charged battery being dean in just a few mowings makes me think that it is something more than just a no-charge situation.Something on the new motor isnt hooked up right. Because to drain a battery that fast takes more than just a few sarts. IE: you are consuming battery juice WHILE running.

And what do you mean by "stalling the clutch"??
 
   / Changed motors NEED wiring HELP!
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Yes I have a volt meter I checked silenoid and it seems to be oj. What I mean about stall is, that when you cut grass it wants to slow down. I adjusted the clutch to abt. a guage of 12 & did sonewhat better but still slows. I go to start mower & battery dead.
 
   / Changed motors NEED wiring HELP! #4  
You need to separate this into one or the other problem:

1. Is it charging while running? Check the battery voltage with engine running at full throttle for at least 10 minutes. It must be above 13.5 volts, and 13.8 or higher would better. If so the battery is charging ok. If the voltage is low the electric clutch may not have enough power to operate.

2. Is the battery being discharged while the engine is not running? With the engine off and all devices (clutch,lights, etc.) off disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and measure the current being drawn between the negative battery terminal and the lead you just disconnected.. Be careful and read your owner's meter's manual about measuring current. It is easy to damage the meter. Get help if you are in doubt. The current should be less than 10 milliamperes. Less than one is better.
 
   / Changed motors NEED wiring HELP! #5  
When you are talking about the clutch, and when you say "when mowing it slows down", do you just mean the blades slow down?? or does the whole engine slow/bog down?? If it is the whole engine, I doubt that problem is a clutch issue.

Ditto on what Bobrip said. You have a VOM. Time to use it. Check some voltages. When running?? When it appears dead?? Test the current also. Do you have a meter that will do DC amps with a clamp?? If so, you can check draw when running and with it being off without un-hooking anything.

Good advise to read your manual on the meter too. Too much current on the wrong setting will blow the internal fuse.
 
   / Changed motors NEED wiring HELP! #6  
New fully charged battery being dean in just a few mowings makes me think that it is something more than just a no-charge situation.Something on the new motor isnt hooked up right. Because to drain a battery that fast takes more than just a few sarts. IE: you are consuming battery juice WHILE running.
And what do you mean by "stalling the clutch"??

That mower has an electric clutch that runs the blades. A similar one from Surplus Center pulls over 3 amps, so I can see it draining a little lawnmower battery fairly quickly.

I agree with the other posters. Stick a voltmeter on the battery when off, when running (both at idle and 3/4 throttle) and (if possible) with the deck on. You should see at least 13 volts anytime the engine is on. If you don't see that, I would first check all fuses and then go from there.

Aaron Z
 
   / Changed motors NEED wiring HELP! #7  
That mower has an electric clutch that runs the blades. A similar one from Surplus Center pulls over 3 amps, so I can see it draining a little lawnmower battery fairly quickly.

I agree with the other posters. Stick a voltmeter on the battery when off, when running (both at idle and 3/4 throttle) and (if possible) with the deck on. You should see at least 13 volts anytime the engine is on. If you don't see that, I would first check all fuses and then go from there.

Aaron Z

Yea, thats kinda my point, even if I didnt word it too well.'

What I was trying to say was.....IF the battery was ONLY used to start, (IE bad charging connection or something) BUT the mower was STILL able to make its own power when mowing (just not charging), then it would last MUCH longer than 2-3 starts.

Thats Why I think it is something more than just a "no-charge" stuation. I could be wrong on THAT particular model, but MOST of these small engines will run WITHOUT the battery. It dont sound like thats the case with this one, somthing else is wrong
 
   / Changed motors NEED wiring HELP! #8  
Yea, thats kinda my point, even if I didnt word it too well.'
What I was trying to say was.....IF the battery was ONLY used to start, (IE bad charging connection or something) BUT the mower was STILL able to make its own power when mowing (just not charging), then it would last MUCH longer than 2-3 starts.
Thats Why I think it is something more than just a "no-charge" stuation. I could be wrong on THAT particular model, but MOST of these small engines will run WITHOUT the battery. It dont sound like thats the case with this one, somthing else is wrong

Ah, I had read it as the battery was only lasting 2-3 mowings and guessed that is is a no-charge situation. Have seen that on several zero turns (mostly on Exmarks with Kawasaki motors).
My guesses would be a mis-connected wire, a bad stator or a bad voltage regulator not allowing it to charge.
Running the voltage tests with the motor off, on and on with the deck on should tell if the charging system is doing anything.

Aaron Z
 
   / Changed motors NEED wiring HELP!
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Thanks guys, I have checked the battery with engine off and getting 12.26 volts. I have not jumped it off to test while running. I have traced wires through the harnest and find only one fuse, and that fuse has 25 amp in it, not broke, however, one wire to fuse holder is diconected and I have no idea where it would connect. where the fuse is there is nothing (no wires) going out from fuse. I touched the diconnected wire to hot post of solenoid and turned key and got clicks from battery so it appears to be hot. it did not blow the fuse. I will check the battery while running and see voltage. I think i might need to just re-wire this thing, but Im not sure of what i need to hook up to get it to work.
Thanks again guys for your help and quick responses.
 
   / Changed motors NEED wiring HELP! #10  
If there is only one fuse in the harness, that is likely the fuse protecting the charging circuit. Probabally should be a wire from the engine harness feeding that fuse, and then back to battery. Could run through the keyswitch and then to battery.
 
 
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