GT2550 charging problem

[bluefin1983]

2007 GT2550 with a Kohler CH670-0011 does not charge. Stator checks out, changed rectifier ( twice )-------no voltage out of rectifier with seperate volt meter. What does the 5 amp fuse protect? Mine blows after a half dozen starts. Anyone know where I can find a wiring diaghram ? Thanks.....

 

[Gator6x4]

You should get 25-30 volts AC from the two voltage wires coming from the stator to the rectifier with the engine running at 1800+ RPM's. You should then get 13.5-14.5 volts DC when checked at the positive and negative posts on the battery with the engine running at 1800+ RPMS.

 

[bluefin1983]

I have 28v on stator ------12.2---12.4 on battery leads running 3/4 throttle. Installed new stator and rectifier, even tried another rectifier---same results. Checked all wiring, I am stumped !!!

 

[rcbe]

suspect you have a short to ground between rectifier dc output and battery... prolly intermittant type that gets bad enuff now and then to blow that fuse... 12.2. 12.4 vdc is what you would expect from a battery at rest, not being charged at at 3/4 throttle... do a close chk of the involved wiring/connections.

 

[Gator6x4]

Without a wiring diagram, this is somewhat generic. Most Cubs have a five wire wiring harness connected to the rectifier. Two of the wires are from the stator. One wire goes to ground and usually is green. One wire goes to the hour meter and the other usually red goes to the ignition switch. The wire going to the switch is also interconnected to the wire which usually contains a fuse leading from the switch to the starter solenoid.

A wire then goes from the starter solenoid to the battery to enable charging.

So in theory you should be able to check charging voltage at the starter solenoid or the positive post on the battery.

Don’t assume by looking, the fuse in the wire coming from the switch to the starter is good. Also don’t assume the fuse holder is good. Probe and test for voltage, before and after the fuse.

Isolate the wires on the rectifier. Probe and determine if one of the wires is providing a voltage reading of around 14 volts with the engine at 1800 or more RPMS. If yes trace the wire to the switch and then to the solenoid.

 

[RandyT]

Are you getting 12v from the wire hooked to the rectifier coming from the battery. Kohler engines require 12v input to the rectifier to operate. Also make sure that the rectifier has a good ground. won't work without a good ground. The blowing of fuses does indicate a possible short someplace.

Take a wire and run it from the positive battery terminal to the battery pin on the rectifier and then check the battery voltage with the engine is running. If you now have 13.5-14.5 then you have a problem between the battery and the rectifier in your wiring harness.

The fuse blowing intermittently could be cause by a corroded terminal at the key switch or some other connector.

 

[bluefin1983]

Thanks everyone, will give it this test.

 

[bluefin1983]

Just to let people know, some repair shops do not know what they are doing. Purchased this GT2550 knowing it smoked a little. After it was run, it smoked a LOT. Opened up motor and removed pistons, dealer installed 77mm rings on 80mm pistons, that is why it smoked. Then charging problem, after asking on this form I found that the ground bracket was missing from the rectifier to engine. That is why it did not charge. So I have a re-ringed, new stator, new rectifier on the tractor. Thanks for all the help from all of you.