Cub Cadet 1250 problems PLEASE HELP!!

[LavilleFFA]

So we had a Cub cadet 1250 donated to us and we are going to restore it to use as a show machine. We went to start it and the spark plug isn't getting a spark. and I checked the breaker points and they are fine but I noticed sparks jumping from the engine to the guard that goes around the gas tank. Where do you think we are shorting out at. Thanks

 

[rcbe]

might start by removing engine cooling sheet metal cowling to expose head fins and remainder of ignition wiring for any evidence of damage by rodents chewing on wires - and to clean out cooling fins.... Repair/replace any damaged wiring.

 

[teejk]

So we had a Cub cadet 1250 donated to us and we are going to restore it to use as a show machine. We went to start it and the spark plug isn't getting a spark. and I checked the breaker points and they are fine but I noticed sparks jumping from the engine to the guard that goes around the gas tank. Where do you think we are shorting out at. Thanks

Bad place to have a spark I think. check your wire from the points to the coil for any insulation damage. then check your switch wiring for any damaged wiring. clean up your ground wires (battery to frame inside the battery pan, thick wire from behind the starter bolt to the frame on the front "nose".

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

So we had a Cub cadet 1250 donated to us and we are going to restore it to use as a show machine. We went to start it and the spark plug isn't getting a spark. and I checked the breaker points and they are fine but I noticed sparks jumping from the engine to the guard that goes around the gas tank. Where do you think we are shorting out at. Thanks

Those sparks mean the engine block is not grounded. There should be a heavy wire or cable somewhere going from the engine block to the tractor frame. To prove that is the problem you could clamp a jumper cable to the frame and the engine. Also on a 1250 check the engine mounts. The engine should sit on 4 rubber mounts attached to 2 rails. The "iso" mounts are notorious for going bad and allowing the engine to settle down between the rails and eventually destroying the aluminum oil pan (been there and done that).

Bob B.

 

[teejk]

Those sparks mean the engine block is not grounded. There should be a heavy wire or cable somewhere going from the engine block to the tractor frame. To prove that is the problem you could clamp a jumper cable to the frame and the engine. Also on a 1250 check the engine mounts. The engine should sit on 4 rubber mounts attached to 2 rails. The "iso" mounts are notorious for going bad and allowing the engine to settle down between the rails and eventually destroying the aluminum oil pan (been there and done that).

Bob B.

Bob...the grounds on the QuietLines are indeed 2 stage as I pointed out above. 1) Battery to frame in the rear battery frame. 2) Front starter bolt to the nose cone. From what I can tell they did that because of the rubber engine mounts. Ground from battery wouldn't get to the engine so 2 connections to the frame are needed to get a ground to the engine...the frame is the link.

Pull them both off and clean them up...they are both heavy wires but get them shiny and replace. Should take about 10 minutes or so. I still suspect the wire from the points to the coil but one step at a time.

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

Bob...the grounds on the QuietLines are indeed 2 stage as I pointed out above. 1) Battery to frame in the rear battery frame. 2) Front starter bolt to the nose cone. From what I can tell they did that because of the rubber engine mounts. Ground from battery wouldn't get to the engine so 2 connections to the frame are needed to get a ground to the engine...the frame is the link.

Pull them both off and clean them up...they are both heavy wires but get them shiny and replace. Should take about 10 minutes or so. I still suspect the wire from the points to the coil but one step at a time.

I agree - pull grounds and check. Ignition voltage jumping from engine block to frame can only mean poor or missing ground. Wiring to points or coil can cause loss of ignition but not the spark jumping he is reporting. A battery jumper cable, as I mentioned, is still the quickest way to prove that is the problem.

Bob B.

 

[Bladehauler]

sounds to me like the insulation on the high tension lead has broken down and leaking voltage to ground

 

[teejk]

I agree - pull grounds and check. Ignition voltage jumping from engine block to frame can only mean poor or missing ground. Wiring to points or coil can cause loss of ignition but not the spark jumping he is reporting. A battery jumper cable, as I mentioned, is still the quickest way to prove that is the problem.

Bob B.

Bob I hear you...my guess is based solely on factory wiring...the only wire near there would be the points wire. Not to say somebody didn't patch something else in there of course. The factory wiring diagram is available via a simple google search (I have it here too if I could figure out how to insert it here).