1650 not cranking

[MFP8055]

My 1650 that I use to push snow is having an electrical issue. Turning the ignition key will not crank the engine. Here's what I've found so far:
- Key switch removed and looks good. Checked with continuity meter to see if crank position worked.
- Starter solenoid replaced; not the problem.
- Lock-out switch on brake works. Closes with pedal down.
- Power from battery OK. Lights work.
- Engine will crank with solenoid jumped. Screwdriver across posts.

Could it be the ammeter? Didn't jump that yet. Any other ideas? Thanks.

 

[rcbe]

make sure you are sitting down on the seat firmly with the clutch/brake pedal fully depressed before cranking engine. That seat switch has to be activated to complete the start relay circuit. Some of the seat switches can be jumpered, others have a jumper-defeating mechanism built-in... not sure what you may have....

 

[teejk]

I don't think the 1650 had a seat activated safety switch. I assume you have the wiring diagram (if not I have it). It's kind of a wierd thing that in addition to the brake switch also runs through the PTO switch. Easiest to explain if you have the wiring diagram in front of you.

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

Check the PTO switch as it prevents starting if turned on or shorted.

Bob B.

 

[teejk]

Check the PTO switch as it prevents starting if turned on or shorted.

Bob B.

yup...easy enough to see what happens if you have the wiring diagram in front of you. If not then I guess the easiest way to diagnose would be a VOM at the solenoid "little wire". It should show 12v with the brake switch closed (you can jumper around that to test if you have to but try to lock the pedal down first) and the key in the "S" position.

 

[MFP8055]

No seat switch to worry about. The PTO has power, and is off while I try to start. Can't find my wiring diagram, so if there's one on-line please point me to it. I'll check the small solenoid wire for 12V.

 

[rcbe]

Mike did find an elect schematic on that 1650 from a cub serv manual. Shows that 12v not only going thru thru the cl/brake sw, but also thru a neutral sw (most likely for the shifter)

hope you can make out this schematic and that it helps.

 

[MFP8055]

Thanks. I found my diagram after digging around the barn last night. Same one, including the pencil markings. Looks like I can jump the neutral switch (brake pedal) and PTO to plow snow tonight. The PTO switch will energize the clutch, but that doesn't mean the other circuits in the switch are OK. We'll see how it goes.

 

[teejk]

Thanks. I found my diagram after digging around the barn last night. Same one, including the pencil markings. Looks like I can jump the neutral switch (brake pedal) and PTO to plow snow tonight. The PTO switch will energize the clutch, but that doesn't mean the other circuits in the switch are OK. We'll see how it goes.

If jumpering around the brake switch gets you going, then you seem to have found your problem. That switch is subject to a lot of abuse given its location. Just make sure to still depress the brake pedal since it returns the hydro pump to neutral to avoid a lurching start.

If that doesn't work, you should see that the solenoid needs to be grounded to the frame. Make sure your metal is clean at the mounting point.

 

[splitty]

My 1650 did the same thing I replaced the ign switch and it cleared everything up. The old switch fell apart when I took it off, little balls and springs came out of it.. Although it don't sound like that is your problem.