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  1. #1
    New Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Somonauk IL

    Default Cub 1641 pto won't disengage

    I just picked this up locally has 900 hrs. When you start it the blades are turning. The pto switch makes noise when you try to flip it but doesn't turn off blades. I unplugged the switch and it won't start unplugged, no power won't turn over. So is the switch bad? Not familiar with these as I've always had green ones til now.

  2. #2
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    May 2008

    Default Re: Cub 1641 pto won't disengage

    Since yours will start with the PTO engaged, it is a high probability the usual switch failure occurred and the previous owner FUBARed the switch in an attempt to keep it going.

    No experience with the 1641, but you'll need a wiring schematic. Some CCs have an interlock on the seat, reverse and the ignition all going through the PTO switch. If you want to preserve all the interlocks, sometimes buying all new switches is the way to do it. Be prepared for sticker shock.

    Rewiring the entire tractor is an option, but not everyone is able to or comfortable re-engineering the electricals.

    jack vines

  3. #3
    Silver Member Rfisher7381's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    South West Michigan
    Kubota BX2360


    I have a 1641. Haven't had this problem but the first thing I would do is pull the electric PTO off and inspect and clean it. There is a single bolt on the end of the crankshaft which secures the PTO so it is easy to remove. This unit doesn't have any interlocks that I can think off. My RZT50 is loaded with pain in the rear interlocks.
    2011 BX2360, FEL, 60" mmm, 50" snowblower
    2004 Cub Cadet RZT50
    1994 Cub Cadet 1641, 48" mmm

  4. #4
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2008

    Default Re: Cub 1641 pto won't disengage

    Otto J - Most likely, the idler bearing inside the PTO clutch assy is either dragging or is seized up, not allowing the clutch assy to freewheel when disengaged. This failure is not uncommon on high hour machines.
    Depending on the make/model of the clutch, you may be able to replace just the bearing and save some serious $$... Would use a camera and take notes before/during/after repair to keep track of detail - and do keep in mind that the clutch assy is HEAVY when it comes off that engine crankshaft.

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