1968 CC 125 Renovation

[daugen]

Over three years ago I had to put aside a partly finished renovation due to family problems.
Now I'm finally restarting this project, and have quite a bit done, but a long way to go.
The engine was rebuilt shortly before I got it, by a mechanic in a shop, and has only a few hours on it. It ran fine, and the
hydro trans shifted fine. And then it went to sleep.

My initial question is with the Kohler engine color. A K301 12 hp flat head. I think the oem color was black
and this poor thing has had black paint slathered all over it.
Need some major TLC. But I've seen these old CC's with yellow engines too, with black
circular cooling air intakes. And I've seen the air cleaner painted
a variety of colors.
Yellow paint means you can see what's going on in there. Black paint means it's a dark hole.
Anyone know if CC ever did paint their engines yellow, or part yellow or are these all owner mods?
And yes, of course, does it matter?...this isn't going to the Grange Show but I also would like it somewhat authentic.

This tractor will be a lawn queen, I have two others, so I kept with the original period skinny front tires, which should do fine for a water cart puller.
New Bosch coil and condenser, new spark plug wires, new battery cables, decals, throttle and choke cables, fuel line, carb fully redone. And tires. No intentions of messing with the hydrostatic drive other than
changing oil and filter. Would likely do more harm than good and there are some unusual instructions on these first gen hydrostatic adjustments.

And for sure I have some fiberglass work to do.

So, black engine or yellow? Which would you choose?

tomorrow's project is taking off the motor generator and giving that some separate TLC.

 

[rcbe]

chk out this link: TractorData.com Cub Cadet 127 tractor photos information ... (expand the 2 pixs)

 

[daugen]

Thanks, I knew I had seen a yellow engine somewhere

 

[daugen]

wheels are off and cleaned, disappointing to find rust on the rears even though they were painted three years ago and sat in a garage. So much
for Rustoleum's magic powers...
Generator off for cleaning and painting. The thing weighs a ton, remarkably heavy. Must be a lot of copper in there.

I have some wobble in the front spindles. Plain wear I'm sure; this CC had a tough life. Trouble is there aren't any bearings or bushings in there which one could replace to take up the slack. Wear pattern is clear on the spindle but I'm not replacing the spindles for a tiny bit of wobble on a barn queen.
More pics to follow. Very rainy weather coming in and I might get a chance to get some serious sanding and prep done. I've degreased it once; now I need to get on the creeper and get underneath where it makes sense. With all of the mower apparatus off, it's pretty simple underneath.

 

[daugen]

made good progress today while it poured down rain outside. Got the entire unit clean enough for now, will wipe with isopropyl alcohol just before I paint.
And then got a little blue tape time in.
Decided to leave the engine black. It is well painted except for one shroud, which is easily done, and if I repaint, it's three more layers of paint on top of an already thick layer of "legacy" paint redos. At least the air cleaner will be yellow, and I am taking the time to get the bolt heads painted the right color.

Ok, now I'm stumped. How do I get this steering wheel off? What kind of puller can I use that won't wreck all the surrounding plastic and fiberglass. My understanding is that it's a press fit and for sure rusted on. I really need to get the wheel off to do the new decal on the instrument panel properly but that decal is not worth wrecking the steering column. And I've never used a bearing puller in my life, if that's what I need, and could use some advice. Thanks.

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

Could you make a vertical cut in the decal from the bottom to the bottom of the steering shaft hole? Maybe then you could flex the decal enough to slip it over the steering shaft. The joint wouldn't be all that noticeable.

Bob B.

 

[daugen]

Could you make a vertical cut in the decal from the bottom to the bottom of the steering shaft hole? Maybe then you could flex the decal enough to slip it over the steering shaft. The joint wouldn't be all that noticeable.

Bob B.

thanks, exactly Bob, that's my backup plan. Having never used a gear puller or steering wheel puller, not sure of which tool to use if I'm going to get the wheel off, but know I'm starting with several days of PB Blaster, etc. and let it soak. Anytime I see that much rust, I want to take it apart and clean it out but not sure that will happen here if I do more damage than good.

 

[Iamblessed]

Don't use a puller on the steering wheel as you will probably ruin it. The easy way is to use a bolt and nut with the same threads as the shaft. It is a fine pitch and I use to have one but haven't seen it in a long time. The procedure is to remove the narrow nut and replace it with a wider one in which you can put half of the threads on the steering shaft into the wider nut and then screw a bolt with the same threads into the other half of the new nut. After that and with play between the steering wheel hub and the nut, you tap the end of the bolt you inserted with a hammer. It will break the hub loose.I hate to send you elsewhere but you need to go here and check the FAQ Topics - IH Cub Cadet Forum

 

[daugen]

well the steering wheel is soaking in Pb blaster now and I'm going to keep all this good advice in mind while trying to rig up a puller.

found just the perfect battery for the unit, trying to get as much battery in there as possible and only have width of 8 1/4 inches. Napa/East Penn makes a squatty battery type 121R that wasn't out front, an odd size, but thankfully was in the back at Napa and should last me a long while. Spent some time wirebrushing everything, and cleaning up the starter/generator. Unfortunately my barn isn't heated so until the temps rise, can't get any painting done.

I kinda shook my head when I examined the fine craftmanship used to affix the steering wheel spinner to the rim. Sliding a little? Just stick an old rusty screw in there...
Not attractive enough to make the cut, off it comes for sure.

 

[rcbe]

ah, progress ... On the new batt, would get it load tested if possible and do make sure that the post polarities are not reversed from your old batt. as to the rusty spinner screws, not a good thing - a clue that the old girl spent too much time out in bad weather.... chk all yer elect connections for corrosion while you've got it all opened up.