Your right! That front bar is threaded for adjustment. I agree with Altair the spring pressure "down" is fairly substantial. You may have to mix and match front to rear adjustment. You might want to check all the pivot points for wear, I do remember replacing the pins up front where that "U" bar attaches to. Good Luck.
cub cadet 2160 leveling?
- Thread starter briggsman
- Start date
magicalj
Silver Member
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2006
- Messages
- 114
- Location
- Milan IN
- Tractor
- [2004 LT2180] [1980 582] [1981 582] [1983 682] [1983 982]
The manual for my 2180 say to level the deck front to back with the u shaped loop in the front, and side to side adjustment is done with the hanger on one side of the rear of the deck. If the deck is 1 inch higher in the front, then you have the nuts on the front to tight. I think the manual says to start adjustment with about 5/8" if thread showing behind the nut. I could see how one might tighten them up not know what they are for and getting the deck way out of wack.
NEFirewood
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2007
- Messages
- 81
- Location
- Massachusetts
- Tractor
- 2007 Mahindra 2015HST, Cub Cadet GT2542, Simplicity
briggsman said:Hey guys, I am new to this forumand have been reading as a guest for months. I just recieved a cub cadet 2160 with the AGS (AutoGearSystem), 16 hp briggs vanguard and a model 301 (48") deck and 485.9 hours on it. since recieving it i have changed all fluids (gear oil, Engine oil etc.) and greased and lubricated all of the necessary points. Also i have since replaced the deck wheels and deck drive belt. so now i have tried leveling the deck MULTIPLE TIMESby the rules and i think the front bracket on the deck (where the drawbar mounts to) is worn out but my brother thinks that is is the implement list springs holding the back of the deck up.
I guess what my question is: Is there any parts that may be worn or bent that would cause the deck to sit higher in the back than it does in the front or it this just the way these cubs naturally sit?
I re-leveled the deck on my 2542 about a year ago. From what I can remember the front end is lower than the rear. It looks crooked by eye, but you can't judge by that. I ended up buying a cheap set of telescoping gages at Harbor Freight and I was able to level the deck by measuing the distance from the blade tip to the ground, and not from the deck. I was able to get the deck to probably better than factory specs and it was really easy using 2 telescoping gages at the same time. After that I just check the tire pressure and it always mows great since then.
The front of the deck is suppose to be lower than the rear. 1" is a tad much but unless the cut looks bad leave it be. The main thing is to get it level side to side. This should be done on a hard surface with the deck in the cutting position.
ok guys thank you i already tried leveling by the blades and it is within a quarter inch so i will just leave it be.
also it runs very hot is this common for the vanguard or do you think my cooling fins are clogged. (hot as in it steams after i shut it off.)
also it runs very hot is this common for the vanguard or do you think my cooling fins are clogged. (hot as in it steams after i shut it off.)
briggsman said:
I've got an early 2160. You shouldn't have any steam. The only liquid in the engine is oil. Is it steam or actually smoke? Does it smell like oil or like burning leaves?
If I were you, I would very carefully examine the engine. Check below the carb (in the "V" between the cylinder banks) for grass buildup, or as in my case, a mouse nest. Look into the air vanes of the cylinders. Check the fan intake screen (on the back of the engine, behind the firewall, where the shaft drive exits the engine for build up). IIRC, you can unscrew that mesh screen and clean out any grass in there.
I had a mouse build an undetected nest under the carb between one mow and the next. Before I realized it was there, I seized the engine and spent about a grand acquiring a new one (along with a few associated parts).
It was pretty interesting opening the hood when it started to run rough after an hour of mowing. I thought I was going to see a blade drive belt hanging by a thread. Instead, I saw hot embers floating upwards!
What a freakin' disaster! And the engine only had 350 hours on it. Ran like a charm - no leaks, still on the original PTO, no oil consumption, etc. Good luck!ok guys i cleaned out the fins and it helped alot i just have one more problem though, there is an oil leak in the oil pressur switch itself, i mean it is a huge leak i have an oil stain going up my drive way. is it just easier to replace the switch than trying to repair it?