Rubber ISO mounts VS Steel ISO Mounts

[gdechatham]

I have a Cub Cadet 1450, and it needs new Rubber ISO mounts (engine mounts).

I did a lot of research on what I should do about the mounts- On one hand, Cub Cadet still does make the mounts. On another hand, there is a guy that makes steel mounts that replaces the rubber mounts.

I do understand that using steel mounts would not reduce the original vibration on the quietline series. But, steel does not wear out like the rubber ones do.

So, my question is, does the rubber really dampen the vibrations that much? Or would it just be better to put on steel mounts instead?

I am aware of the rail modification, and I am going to do that, either way if I use rubber or steel.

Thank you for your time and response. Very much appreciated.

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

IMO I would stay with the rubber. I think solid steel would give a lot more vibration and noise and possibly cause other chassis parts to vibrate loose quicker. I didn't have as much a problem with the rubber wearing out on my 1450 but instead the engine mounting bolts fell out, causing the rails to wear the sides of the oil pan, requiring replacement. I had mine for 26 years.

Bob B.

 

[gdechatham]

Bob,


Thank you so much. "Had my tractor 26 years" That definitely answered my question. I'll be buying the rubber mounts and doing the rail modification.

It's good to run into another 1450 owner. Do you have any recommendations on a good single source for information on the 1450's? It has been a lot of work to hunt everything to find that information is spread all over the place on the internet.

These are the things I am mostly interested in:

1. Getting a manual that's specifically for the 1450 (I have gotten generic manuals for a group of tractors, including the 1450. Are there any 1450 specific manuals online for download?)

2. Good online resource for really cheap parts. I am in need of side covers, headlight knob, rear PTO arm as well as the rear pto "tube", and the hood support plate that goes above the gas tank and mounts behind the dash.

3. Information on how to adjust the hydraulic shifter. (Right now, if I put the knob in the neutral position, the tractor creeps backwards.)

I apologize for asking so many questions in one post, and for the length of it. I have spent approximately 15 hours online trying to find this information, without luck. I would be very grateful for any of the above information.


Much Appreciated,
George

 

[OldMachinist]

I think the factory servive manual covered several models. Here's a link to it.
http://www.ihregistry.com/manuals/service/86ser.pdf

 

[gdechatham]

Oldmachinist,

Thank you for the manual. I have the same one on my computer. It seems that the IH corporation only made one manual for several different models. I was hoping for one manual that focuses specifically on the 1450. Seems that they don't exist. I wonder what they had back then for the private owner. But knowing how things were back then, everybody probably went to the dealership to get their tractors fixed. (Or they didn't need virtually any fixing besides simple maintenance for the first 20 years of ownership.)

It is truly amazing and sad at the same time, that tractors are not made as well today as they used to be. I have run through 4 new & modern tractors before deciding it was time to stick with antique ones.


Thanks again,
George

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

George, you may find various parts on eBay from time to time. I bought a new headlight assembly for my 3235 that way. Sorry, I sold all my 1450 manuals on eBay a few years ago. I had a complete set of service manuals, parts catalogs, brochures etc. for tractor, deck, snow plow, and hydraulic blade angle. The whole set was about 4 inches high and they bought everything, book by book - even sales brochures.
What is the rail modification you are talking about?


Bob B.

 

[gdechatham]

Bob,

Thanks for the ebay suggestion. I'll keep an eye on ebay. As for the rail modification- based on what I've read, the rails in the front tend to have side to side motion, separate from each other. This is what ruins the rubber mounts so quickly. To stop the side to side motion, one can weld or bolt a piece of iron and cross-brace it from one side to another. That would make the rails a singular unit, effectively stopping the damage as well as reduce the vibration.

Cub Cadet does sell rails brand new & already modified, but they do it with two brackets, one in the front, and one in the back. Unfortunately, the rear bracket gets in the way, so the rear bracket has to be removed.

Here is a great page on how to do the modification with pictures:

Cub Cadet FAQ


Cheers,
George

 

[2manyrocks]

As I recall, the factory manual covers 1250-1450 and the 1650 which are essentially the same tractor with 12, 14 and 16 hp kohler engines. The 12 and the 14 are basically the same engine except for the bore.

All seem to run into the same issues--sloppy steering, hydrostatic creep, shot ISO mounts, and the repairs for these issues are covered at the Cub Cadet forum on another website. You can adjust the hydro linkage per the factory manual, but if your hydrostatic control spring is weak and the slots on the linkage are worn, your tractor will slow down on hills for no apparent reason because of wear in the controls.

I replaced my ISO mounts with the rubber replacements and did the rail modification. I think the rubber mounts are overpriced. Not quite sure that I'll be able to find a replacement oil pan again in 10-20 years when these mounts give out.

Cheapest parts source for you is to find a parts tractor from someone who wants it out of their yard. Otherwise, those side panels can get pricey.

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

Either the rail modification wasn't available at the time I replaced the mounts or I just didn't hear about it because I purchased new rails & mounts from the dealer and they were just like the originals. It was probably 6 years ago or so when I did it.

Bob B.

 

[gdechatham]

2ManyRocks,

That Cub Cadet forum you were talking about- the one that covers these issues- can you post a link to that site?

I found Rubber mounts at: Finding Your Cub Cadet Genuine Factory Parts

It seems to be $16.00, but I am not sure if that's just for one set (per corner) or, if it's for all 4 corners. I'll have to find that out. $64 isn't that bad for all 4 corners if that's the latter. But one could opt to get steel mounts for cheaper at: Brian Miller's Steering, Chassis Parts & Machine Shop Services

I did play with the idea of buying the steel mounts, and buy some heavy duty rubber or plastic washers and placing them under the steel mount, giving some shock absorption. But, Bob had his rubber mounts working good for 26 years with the original rail setup without the bracing. So, with bracing, it has to last a little longer. (I don't keep a tractor longer than 10 years, usually.)

I try to stick to 100% original, but in this situation, it seems that it is the logical choice to do the rail modification. I'll definitely keep you all posted on what I ended up doing.


Bob,

I have no idea if the rail modification was a known improvement 6 years ago. It seems to be a sound solution, and these guys that did the rail modification are hard-core tractor guys with insider information. So, I'll give the modification a try. I do not have welding knowledge, so I will be bolting on a brace instead of welding it on.