Oil & Fuel First oil change 2554

[diesel_nut]

All went well. Pretty easy.
Didn't have a hose to connect to the drain so I let it run out. It drained to the rear and fell down cleanly enough into my drain pan. Filter needed a little persuasion to come off (filter tool). New oil filter(filled like they suggest) went on with no drips at all. Oil went it cleanly with a funnel.
All in all very easily done. Will try to find suitable drain hose for the future or use my Pella oil extractor.

Oh, I used Kohler 10W30 in case anyone is interested.

32 hours on tractor. Had 7 hours when I bought it with fresh oil put in it then from the dealer. So I figured this is my 25 hour first oil change. 100 hours seems like a lot of hours away until the next change.

 

[micman32]

I have never had anyluck with that hose.. I just let it drain into the pan and clean up the mess! Good choice in oil.. I have used it for years in mine.

Michael

 

[SHUNKSTER]

I have a "07" 2554 and 100hrs between oil changes seem to long also. Your Hour meter will start flashing CGH OIL around 50hrs and last for about 2 hrs. It will do this every 50hrs. I just follow the hour meter, 50 hrs seems much more reasonable besides that oil is cheap. Everyone seems to complain about the stupid plastic tube for the oil drain. I have had no problems with it, yea it probably could have been engineered a little better but it just not worth everyone getting their panties all knotted up about. All in all, it's been a great machine. Mow all summer Plow all winter.

 

[savageactor7]

I did my oil yesterday as well Diesel...btw did you change your hydro filter at 10hrs?

I up graded oil to Rotella 10-40 cause with this tractor I'm always running full throttle cutting. With the 1440 I was cutting well at 3/4 throttle. This winter when I plow I'll use 5w30 for easier starting ...never had to use full throttle to plow snow.

Also replaced the plastic drain monstrosity with a simple 3/8 plug. What a pleasure to go out this morning and not see oil weeping on the frame. I was so overjoyed I had to get a paper towel to confirm an oil free frame.

 

[JTKub]

..I up graded oil to Rotella 10-40 cause with this tractor I'm always running full throttle cutting. With the 1440 I was cutting well at 3/4 throttle. This winter when I plow I'll use 5w30 for easier starting ...

Good call. Not sure about Rotella 10w40, but Shell Rotella-T 15w40 has excellent cold flow properties. Their 5w40 variant flows better cold than some 5w30s (just somthin' to keep in mind)

Joel

 

[Captain Ned]

Also replaced the plastic drain monstrosity with a simple 3/8 plug. What a pleasure to go out this morning and not see oil weeping on the frame. I was so overjoyed I had to get a paper towel to confirm an oil free frame.

Yeah, I hate that bloody thing, because it simply won't hold oil. It drained the entire crankcase over a week's sit. So, how do you get that plastic fitting off. It doesn't want to turn for me.

Unlike the picture in the manual, where a hard pipe comes out, 90s, and the plastic fitting hangs over the front frame, on my 2544 the fitting is stuck directly on the crankcase.

 

[savageactor7]

Captain Ned I loosened all 4 engine bolts and lifted the engine less than a 1/4 inch. The hex nut holding the plastic tube was hand tight loose...but sat tight on the frame so it couldn't tighten it. It just galls me to think CC lets this dreck out of the factory that way.

You should do a search of this forum a few guys went with a real nice drain tube...but I didn't want to lift the engine that high to spin an elbow on.

Now that it's not leaking all the time I don't have to constantly check the oil either. Not that I ever minded doing that before but with the hood in the way I have a real hard time R&Ring the oil dip stick.

I just can't believe that plastic abortion is less expensive than this simple stopper that's been proven over time. You can see the 2 left side engine bolts here.

 

[JTKub]

....a few guys went with a real nice drain tube...but I didn't want to lift the engine that high to spin an elbow on.

It seems a lot worse than it actually is. I marked the relation of the engine block to the frame in case anything shifted, but it landed right back in place anyway.

Joel

 

[Captain Ned]

OK, it looks like I'll need to lift the motor and do some piping. Am I OK using a large flat-blade screwdriver to slowly wiggle it under the motor to use as a pry/lift bar? IOW, are there delicate bits under the motor I need to be careful of when prying it up?

Also, @JTKub: Is the white stuff I see in your pic an extra helping of Teflon tape or did you use pipe dope?

 

[JTKub]

Yep it's pipe dope Ned. I rarely use tape. I used a pry bar on mine (it takes very little force), then used wood shims to hold it up while I worked. That's an old, but never used bass OEM JD drain valve at the end. It would be a bit nicer to elbow down at the end & use a shorter type of valve or just a plug even. You can't pry up too far since the driveshaft hits the top of the tunnel. You only get about an inch of lift out of it. You'd REALLY have to horse it to break anything. No worries there.

Joel