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  1. #11

    Default Re: RZT Transmission Belt Replacement...HELP!

    PS: By the way, got the impact wrench on sale for $43.69 from Harbor Frieght. See Link---> [URL="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=31877"] Link indicates $69.00. Picked up flyer when I walked in store and low and behold, on front page for $43.69. Also, 14 piece deep wall sockets ---> [URL="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=94022"] for $14.95. Great deal.

    Rider

  2. #12
    New Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    7
    Location
    West Central Missouri
    Tractor
    Ford 8N, Cub Cadet RZT 50 & Bolens 46" Lawn Tractor

    Default Re: RZT Transmission Belt Replacement...HELP!

    Glad you're mowing again Rider. Sorry you had to go through so much but it sounds like you got some nifty tools out of the project. Also, thanks for the tip on using the wife to do the dirty work, er... a... I mean using the wire and 2X2. Let's see, there's the wire and there's the 2X2... now where did I put that wife? I'm always misplacing things!
    Last edited by mokanman; 10-10-2009 at 12:17 AM. Reason: Corrected my grammer. She's gettin' old and talks kinda funny!

  3. #13

    Default Re: RZT Transmission Belt Replacement...HELP!

    Wives do come in handy at times but, she said the last time..you will be hauling it into the shop. Darn, what a strong spring!!!

  4. #14

    Default Re: RZT Transmission Belt Replacement...HELP!

    QUICK AND EASY

    Lots of way to skin this cat -- spending time on the front end thoroughly reading prior posts and manual I was able to make quick and easy replacement (less than 1o-15 minutes).

    1. Loosen deck deck belt so that it can be removed from PTO pulley by "rolling" belt off the PTO pulley (or spindle pulley). From rear of mower reach underneath with both hands and pull belt with left hand downward and rearward while turning PTO pulley to right. Maintaining downward tension while turning PTO pulley edge belt off the pulley.

    2. Remove old transimission drive belt. Typically will already be broken or hopelessly worn so from rear of mower, section with knife and discard.

    3. Lower PTO assembly from rear of mower to thread new transmission belt onto engine pulley. NOTE: This is necessary as there is an antirotational bracket that is welded to the framework and prevents the belt from being positioned in place. To lower the PTO assembly you must loosen the 5/8" bolt at the bottom -- to prevent the flywheel from rotating while loosening the bolt remove the spark plug and feed into the spark plug hole a foot or so of 1/4" nylon rope. The piston will come up, hit the rope and lock up the engine. The nylon rope will not hurt the piston or head -- just leave enough out to remove the rope afterwards.

    Once the PTO assembly bolt is loosened slowly unscrew only enough so that the PTO assembly drops below the antirotational bracket and the belt can be put into place. Use the notch where the antirotational bracket engages the PTO assembly to facilitate placement of the belt above the engine pulley. Once belt is in place retighten PTO assembly bolt making sure the antirotational bracket is aligned with the notch on the PTO assembly. Remove nylon rope from spark plug hole and replace spark plug.

    4. Finish placement of belt.

    NOTE: To complete placement of belt you have to remove tension on the transmission idler arm - I'm a "spring puller" so I found it easier to simply detach the spring from the mower frame to release tension on the idler pulley. The manual describes the use of 3/8" drive ratchet being placed in the square hole of the drive idler bracket and used as leverage for releasing tension on idler pulley; while others (see above) have left the spring in place and pulled the idler arm back to remove tension on the belt by threading a wire cable into the square hole in the idler arm and extending the wire to the underside of the framework to the right side of the mower where it could be attached to fulcrum then used to pull back on the idler arm.

    Regardless of how tension is taken off the idler arm pulley, from the rear of mower thread belt around the right transimission drive pulley first. and then onto the left transmission drive pulley. The transmission drive belt is then positioned onto the engine pulley at the top of the PTO assembly and then on the drive idler pulley. Tension is then reapplied by reattaching the tension spring (or removing the fulcrum, pull wire and/or ratchet drive).

    NOTE: Replacement of the tension spring is "a simple yet a hard to master move" -- thus the appeal of using a wire cable or ratchet drive to unload tension from the spindle arm! Using a pair of vise grips placed right at the base of the spring's hook and oriented so the hook is at 90 degrees to both the hook and the hook's latch on the framework the spring is pulled into position and hooked onto the latch. Adjustment and placement of the vise grips is critical to prevent near misses and frustration. And unless you have the upper torso of a gorilla, position your body so that you are using your legs and not your arms to pull back the spring.

    5. Finish by replacing deck drive belt . First place the deck drive belt on all mower blade pulleys and spindle pulleys. Then sitting at rear of mower looking forward reaching underneath grasping the belt with both hands pulling back and sliding the belt back onto the PTO pulley.

    In my "spring-pullin'" alternative approach, the tension spring from the movable idler pulley is unhooked, the deck drive belt rethreaded into all pulleys/spindles, and the tension spring replaced into position (again using vise grips and legs to hold and pull).

    Tools Needed: Not much -- one foot length of 1/2' nylon rope, vise grips, and large ratchet wrench with 5/8" socket.

  5. #15
    New Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    1
    Location
    Texas
    Tractor
    2009 Cub Cadet RZ50

    Default Re: RZT Transmission Belt Replacement...HELP!


    To you masters, Thank you. The flywheel hold, with the drop slightly worked perfectly. No need to buy impact tools. The drive belt went on super easy after that. Shame on CC for not including this detail in the owners manual. I managed to finish my two acres just before is started to rain.
    Thank you for posting this thread. It helped greatly.
    The Bluesmaster

  6. #16
    New Member
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    3
    Location
    TX
    Tractor
    Cub cadet rtz50

    Default Re: RZT Transmission Belt Replacement...HELP!

    Hi Rider,
    My Cub Cadet Rtz 50's drive belt came loose thanks to a stick or pine cone. I'm having a hard time getting the idler arm bracket to move. It is either tightened too much at the factory or maybe spot welded. Did you have this problem? If so how did you loosen the idler arm bolt enough to get it to move? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
    Gary

  7. #17
    Platinum Member OldMachinist's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    637
    Location
    Southwest Illinois

    Default Re: RZT Transmission Belt Replacement...HELP!

    The idler arm should pivot on the bolt freely. Yours may be rusted in place and is likely the cause of the belt being loose. The early versions of the RZT had a grease fitting on the pivot bolt but at some point they changed them. You'll need to remove the whole idler arm assembly and get it moving correctly. The nut on the upper end of the bolt is a bit of a pain to get to but if you look between the plates the engine is mounted on and the lower plate of the frame you'll see it.
    2006 Cub Cadet Z-Force50
    Agco Allis 1616H
    1974 SearsGT18 with 3 point,48"deck,Haban sickle mower and front dozer blade

    2000 Bobcat 453F with steel tracks
    1954 Ford860 with front end loader, 5' brushhog
    1952 Allis Chalmers CA with Woods L59 mower
    1947 Case SC
    1998 Honda ACTY 4WD mini truck
    And too many other small engine tools to list

  8. #18
    New Member
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    3
    Location
    TX
    Tractor
    Cub cadet rtz50

    Default Re: RZT Transmission Belt Replacement...HELP!

    Quote Originally Posted by OldMachinist View Post
    The idler arm should pivot on the bolt freely. Yours may be rusted in place and is likely the cause of the belt being loose. The early versions of the RZT had a grease fitting on the pivot bolt but at some point they changed them. You'll need to remove the whole idler arm assembly and get it moving correctly. The nut on the upper end of the bolt is a bit of a pain to get to but if you look between the plates the engine is mounted on and the lower plate of the frame you'll see it.
    Thanks so much for the information. I see the bolt holding the idler arm. I will lube it with penetrating oil and see if I can loosen the bolt. It seems to be very tight. I appreciate your diagram.

  9. #19
    Platinum Member OldMachinist's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    637
    Location
    Southwest Illinois

    Default Re: RZT Transmission Belt Replacement...HELP!

    The bolt should be tight, the arm rotates around it. Hopefully the penetrating oil will get the arm loosened enough that you can get the bolt out and clean the rust off of it. Then give it a good coating anti-sieze compound when you put it back together.
    2006 Cub Cadet Z-Force50
    Agco Allis 1616H
    1974 SearsGT18 with 3 point,48"deck,Haban sickle mower and front dozer blade

    2000 Bobcat 453F with steel tracks
    1954 Ford860 with front end loader, 5' brushhog
    1952 Allis Chalmers CA with Woods L59 mower
    1947 Case SC
    1998 Honda ACTY 4WD mini truck
    And too many other small engine tools to list

  10. #20
    New Member
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    3
    Location
    TX
    Tractor
    Cub cadet rtz50

    Default Re: RZT Transmission Belt Replacement...HELP!

    Thanks OldMachinist. Your knowledge helped me finally get the drive belt back on. About half way through my first mowing, I picked up a sweet gum ball or stick and the belt siezed. I hooked up the cable to the hole in the idler arm pulley bracket, pulled the pulley back, spun the belt, and was quickly back in business.

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