Oil & Fuel Got a Hydraulic Leak

[UltraFlame]

Need some help here. I noticed a hydraulic leak at the 90 degree fitting on the Steering Cylinder on my Cub. Can anyone here help me out and let me know if I can just tighten the nuts or if I have to take the line off the cylinder and get a new 90 degree fitting? I ask because I tend to over tighten everything and normally break the bolts. If I do take it all apart will I need to bleed the hydraulic fluid and if so, where is the bleeder valve? I only have 100 hours on the Cub but bought it used and it is an 06 so there is no warranty.

 

[OldMachinist]

I would very carefully remove the 90 deg fitting and make sure its not cracked. If you try to tighten it and its cracked it might break off and really make a job out of it. Without a picture I don't know what type of fitting it has on it but some have orings. So it may just be a bad oring.

 

[OldMachinist]

I went and looked up the parts list for the loader and it is a oring boss fitting. Part #727-3012. As long as the fittings not cracked replace the oring and retighten it and the leak should be fixed. In the table on page 2 at this link you can look up what the torque should be for the fitting. http://www.flaretite.com/Portals/0/pdf/brochure_torqtite_adj_wrench_all_04a.pdf

 

[UltraFlame]

Here is a picture. It seems to be leaking between the black square part and the nut.

 

[OldMachinist]

That doesn't look like the Cub loader I looked up. That's just a standard hydraulic hose fitting. Again I would inspect it for a crack and if it looks good just tighten it a little at a time until it stops leaking.

 

[UltraFlame]

The part number you gave me is the same one I looked up and it shows the Steering Cylinder on the schematic but not the 90 degree or Connector Swivel Tube.

 

[UltraFlame]

Bought a new 90 degree fitting the parts diagram calls for and not thinking I guess, but the 90 degree fitting that is on the steering cylinder is welded and part of the cylinder. I really don't want to buy a new cylinder at a cost of over $400. I have tried pretty much everything and not even teflon tape or an O ring worked. Can't tighten the nut any more as it is already against the metal of the 90 degree.

 

[jnelson]

Ultra,

From what I can make out of your pictures the connection between the black 90 degree male fitting and the female hose end is a JIC 45 degree swivel flare connection. As such you should not have to exert excessive tighten force to make a leak proof connection. Can you determine exactly where the fluid is leaking from? If it is coming from the connection then take the hose off and inspect the flare end of the male fitting and the female fitting for dirt or damage. Sometimes these connections can be reseated by smoothing the male flair with a piece of emery cloth but be careful not to remove too much material or you will ruin the fitting. Also try twisting the hose back and forth (rotating it) as you tighten the swivel nut to try help seating it.

If the leak is from the hose end side you could replace the hose which I don't think would be too expensive. If the problem is on the cylinder side you will be in for more expense or work since the fitting appears welded to the cylinder. You will need to find the exact point of the leak before you take the cylinder off if you want to attempt repairs. Or, perhaps a hydraulic shop can cap the cylinder and bench test it for leaks. If the fitting is cracked perhaps it could be repaired by silver soldering, but it would require someone with good skills. The trick would be to get a good flow of solder or braze into the damaged area without overheating and damaging the cylinder itself. I'm sure that anyone that would undertake such a repair for you would stress that there is no guarantee, but it would be worth a try if your only alternative was purchasing a new cylinder.

If the problem is a damaged male flair end on the 90 degree fitting you might want to research a flair fitting repair ring. I saw those in hydraulic catalogs many years ago. They appeared to be thin soft metal rings shaped to fit between the male flair and the female swivel nut to seal the connection. I have no idea how well they work or where to find them but it might be worth checking with some hydraulic repair shops. In any event brute force tightening the connections will not fix a damaged fitting and could actually make your problem worse.

Good luck. It sounds like you are due for some.

JN

 

[OldMachinist]

The repair ring JN is referring to is called a copper crush washer and any hydraulic shop should have them. You may also try a ag equipment dealer as they usually have lots of hydraulic supplies.

 

[Sam Mac]

You can get what you need to repair the seal at Summit racing

Earl's Performance Conical Seals - SummitRacing.com