Cub 6284 Front King Pin Seals

[gfreek]

Anyone change oil seal between drop axle housing front wheel and king pin housing, seal # 721-04087 ?? Parts diagram shows one on each side, service manual shows 2 each side, one on top of the other.. Was only one each side when I disassembled....Think i"ll see if 2 will fit..

 

[gfreek]

Installed new kingpin bearings and double seals on each side, not impressed with the engineering of this...can see more problems down the road....time to move on

 

[jnelson]

My 6284 has the same problem with leakage at the kingpins. Did you determine that you needed bearings as well as the seals or did you replace them as preventative maintenance?

 

[jnelson]

Well...... I just completed going through the front end of my 6284 to repair leaking king pin seals - what fun! Along the way I have had to refer to the Cub 5000 and 7000 service manuals since there never was one published for the 6000 apparently. The 7000 series provided the best information, and just as gfreek indicated, it calls for double seals, so they apparently knew there was an issue with the original design. The 6000 parts manual does not show double seals there, but I followed gfreek and double sealed mine also. You should note that the OEM replacement seal from Cub has a dirt lip on it, where standard sized aftermarket replacement seals do not. I installed one of each on both sides.

I also replaced both the top and bottom bearings on the king pin shafts as both felt a bit rough. All of the other bearings seemed fine. The total parts that I ended up requiring for the job were two pair of king pin bearings (top and bottom), two pairs of king pin seals (two for each side), two o-rings for the top king pin locator plug (one each side), two axle seals (one each side), a tube of black LocTite sealer, and several quarts of gear lube.

Getting the housings apart is a real pain since they were sealed up with black sealer at the factory. Some firm work with a chisel and hammer finally got them separated, but be careful not to damage sealing surfaces. The biggest problem was getting the upper king pin housing removed from the reducer housing. Again, it took some real hammering to get them separated (HINT: go to Harbor Freight and buy the heaviest dead blow hammer they sell). Since there is no good way to secure the assembly in a vice and hammer on it too, it will help to have an assistance to hold the assembly and to catch the parts as they separate.

As you probably already have figured out, you do need to remove the entire reducer and king pin housings from the axle in order to work on the assembly. Be very careful to place the upper pinion gear inside the reducer shaft when re-assembling the housing and king pin shaft. I checked under the tractor this morning after mowing the yard and our woodland trails yesterday with a 6' finish mower and a 4' bush hog - no drops or puddles on the floor - YEAH! This repair was necessary at 400 hours due to the leakage that had developed at the king pin joint over the winter. I do expect that I will probably be doing it again by time I hit 800 hours. Oh well.....

JN

 

[scoops]

Any issues getting the old axle seals out and the new ones in?
I ask because I just busted the front drivers side axle shaft while mowing.
It broke right where the c clip goes. I'll be sure to post a new thread with the fix, parts have been ordered, just waiting for them to arrive.
I'll show a pic of where it broke, almost looks like there is a dowl that runs through the center of the shaft. maybe 1/4 round.

 

[jnelson]

The seals I replaced were on the hubs and at the king pins. I did not remove the axles and/or seals at the axle shafts so I can't help you with that one. It's a bummer about your axle shaft - I hope repairs go well for you! Keep us posted.

JN

 

[mark50]

Well...... Getting the housings apart is a real pain since they were sealed up with black sealer at the factory. Some firm work with a chisel and hammer finally got them separated, but be careful not to damage sealing surfaces. The biggest problem was getting the upper king pin housing removed from the reducer housing. Again, it took some real hammering to get them separated (HINT: go to Harbor Freight and buy the heaviest dead blow hammer they sell). Since there is no good way to secure the assembly in a vice and hammer on it too, it will help to have an assistance to hold the assembly and to catch the parts as they separate.
.....

JN

I agree that the seal on these is good and hard to get apart unless you use a bottom hole tap to tread one or more of the bolt holes in the the outer housing, then simply screw the bolt in and the plate pops right off. I used a bit of finesse to make sure I didn't crack the cast iron.