new member 1250 ignition problems no start with new parts

[Paulcav]

Hello, as a new member I started searching old posts under the 1250's for ignition problems and didn't seem to find the one that suits my problem. I iherited an older 1250 tractor from the late 1980's that was kept in my uncles machine shed at his farm, it was always well maintained and the last major service it b needed was a short block which my uncle had installed back in the late 1990's & other then needing some TLC on the paint and a new seat it's complete and came with spare parts. the last time my uncle used it was about 5 years ago, so after picking up the tractor i cleaned it off and put fresh gas in the empty gas tank. I replaced the fuel line that feeds the carb from the tank with a new one. Installed a new battery and locked out the brake pedal ,checked the oil (ok) and cranked it over, nothing but cranking & no fire. I pulled the plug and it was old & fouled so I blew out the cylinder (great compression) and put in a new plug gapped at .025", cranked it over and same result- no fire. tried putting gas into the carb, choked it and still nothing. tried putting gas into the spark plug hole and still nothing. found no voltage at the coil so I put a new 12volt coil and condenser on from the Kohler dealer, still not fire? I picked up a new point set up and installed that with a .020 gap as specified in the manual, got 12 volts at the coil and 12 volts at the points (+ a spark at the points) tried starting it again, no fire? the PTO is in the off position, brake is on which depresses the safety button (and it works I checked it) what else could stop spark from getting to the plug if you have voltage at the coil & the points? the only thing I didn't change is the voltage regulator but that should have nothing to do with spark should it? I dont see a spark at the plug when I crank it, I checked the spark plug wire with an OHM n meter and it's not broken internally?
one thing I noticed was while cranking the engine I am getting gas spitting out the carb like a mist, shouldn't it be sucking in?
please help if you can any info would be great?

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

Here's a web site with wiring diagrams for the 1250 ignition.

Google

You need +12 volts to one terminal of the coil. The points/condenser connect the other coil terminal to ground. With the plug removed and touching the cylinder head, try touching a wire from the tractor frame to the ground terminal of the coil. You should see a spark at the plug every time you ground the coil. If this works you have a problem with the points, condenser or the circuit to ground from the points. If you don't get a spark touching the wire perhaps the new coil is bad. I.E. if you have +12 on one coil terminal and ground on the other, there should be a spark.

Bob B.

 

[Paulcav]

Ok I put all the old ignition parts back on the tractor and it started???? It ran great for about 5 minutes and all the sudden it shut off, like I had turn the key off? now with the key in the on position I have no volts to the coil. I thought the brake safety switch maybe bad so I bypassed it and still no power when you turn the key? If I put the key "on" and engage the PTO switch , the electric clutch clicks on and off. what could have crapped out while it was running, could it be the ignition switch (internally) or should I look somewhere else?

 

[Paulcav]

FIXED! I replaced the starter solenoid and got nothing, I replaced the ignition switch and still got nothing? I followed a lead on another cub cadet site & it panned out... Success it was the PTO switch! following instructions on the other site I flipped the PTO switch on and off while turning the key and it started & ran, I cut my lawn!!!!. So I took the wires off the back of the switch and cleaned all the oxidation & rust off the terminal ends and put some dielectric grease on them for the **** of it. that alone didn't fix it I still have an internal problem inside the switch so I will have to get another one. I guess sitting in a barn for 10 years un-used has it's down sides. all the seasons and temperature swings must have helped oxidize the inside of the switch, the outside toggle switch area is all rusted so it must have penetrated inside the switch.
so anyone with the same problem...check your PTO switch, the ignition runs through the switch so it's part of the starting loop.