CC 2544 5hr service !@#$

[JTKub]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I think MTD is pretty fond of that oil drain plug, as I saw the exact same one on the shelf at Lowes, but it was under another MTD label I think... )</font>

Many makes/models have a similar drain system these days. The drain valve itself wouldn't be too bad if it were more accessible on the 2544. There is a plug on the other side as well, but it's behind the starter /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif.
G/luck
Joel

 

[cwarrix]

Forgot to mention in my previous post... I always remove my deck before changing the oil or tranny fluid. It's a little more work, but that also gives me a chance to lube and clean the deck really good. Plus it's out of the way for the oil change.

 

[1olddawg]

JT: would loved to have been sitting with a cool one watching this scene (with my ear plugs) /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Try doing what I did after I went through the oil drain fiasco. Remove left front side panel & tire. Get a 7/8" hole saw. measure down 1/2" in line with the drain outlet. Drill the outside through and then the inside of frame. Don't try to drill all the way through the inside as you will be hitting the motor mount plate. Angle the saw up slightly to cut through about 90% of the upper part of the metal. Use a screwdriver and punch the top of the slug through. Bend it up and down to break off the bottom part. Clean up a little with a round file. You now have the access you need to insert the drain tube without putting any side pressure on the valve.
The drain for the rear end is under the bottom. Drain before removing the filter and avoid the mess (always remove the deck to change the filter). One more little glitch. Take a look at your right headlight inside. The plastic assy holding the bulb might be melted because it has no shielding from the exhaust pipe. Mine is. I am adding another shield to the horzintal part of the exposed pipe. Boy oh Boy oh boy!!! Just seems to go on and on /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

 

[JTKub]

Excellent idea with the hole-saw! That's exactly what this setup needs. There was one more calamity associated with my oil changes that I forgot to mension. When I removed and replaced the deck, I didn't notice the the PTO belt was not over the left front idler pulley correctly. I figured it out after I fired'er up, engaged the deck and the engine came to an instant halt. One quick peek underneath determined the cause & was a 10sec fix. Unfortunately now I have a HUGE gash in my 5.5hr old PTO belt !@#$%. Live and learn. Oh the joys of not knowing your machine yet!!
G/luck
Joel

 

[reid]

Simple fix. Get 3/8 " X 18" long piece of silicon surgical tubing from Lowes and slip it over the drain barb. This hose is very soft and flexible. There is no strain on the plastic valve and it will take the 90 degree bend with no problem. It is obvious that the idiot that supplied the clear 1/2" drain hose with the tractor never tried to change the oil with it.

 

[JTKub]

reid, that is a good idea. As long as it can take a 90deg bend right at the barb outlet that will work! Not only is it tight in the closed state, but after you twist & pull the drain valve to open it, you have less than an inch before you hit the frame /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif.
Thanks!
Joel

 

[reid]

Joel The hose can take the bend easily even with the valve in the open position. With the 3/8" tubing you can even reach valve and turn it with your fingers. Hope this spares some other people the frustration of trying to figure out how to use the CC supplied hose which is totally useless. The 2544 is a great tractor and a pleasure to use. Reid

 

[WillyS]

First, thanks to all you guys on your helpful hints! Changing the engine oil and tranny filter could of been allot worse if not for your advice. I put my new 2042 up on a pair of old car ramps I have and it made changing the tranny filter a breeze!! I removed the deck as you all advised and with it tilting up I lost only 5 oz. of fluid!! Used an old aluminum roasting pan to catch the spillage and had the new filter close by. I bought a 24" length of silicone surgical hose from Lowes as one of you recommended, but trying to put that small diameter on the "patented" oil drain nozzle was like trying to put a noodle up a tom cat's a--!!!! I used the 1/2" hose that came with the tractor and placed one front wheel on the ramp so that it tilted towards the drain. It was slow but drained out. Had a spillage when I removed the filter but cleaned up alright!
Thanks guys!! I really enjoy reading your words of wisdom!!!

Bill

 

[JTKub]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Joel The hose can take the bend easily even with the valve in the open position.....)</font>

Thanks Reid. Good to know! I think from now on I'll do what most of the dealers these days do. Suck the old oil out thru the dipstick tube. Real quick, easy & mess free. I've got a cheapy harbor frieght tools hand pump that I've had for awhile that works well for this.
G/luck
Joel

 

[WillyS]

reid, how did you get that 3/8" surgical hose over the drain barb? I bought a 24" length piece at lowes but there was no way that would slip over that 1/2" nipple! If it would have fit I'm sure it would have worked well as it will bend 90 degrees without a kink!

thanks Bill